by nhaynes » Thu 10.06.2021, 10:47
So, I ended up purchasing a Stainless Steel exhaust from SJ Sportcars as this is the closest I could source to the original Lotus specification. I bought the Front Section (SJ100S0004), the Centre Section (SJ100S0003) and Standard Rear Silencer (SJ100S0002). I didn't need the downpipe from the turbo as it's stainless steel and is still in good condition. I also purchased 5 new rubber hangers (SJ100S0001), 2 new joint clamps (A100S6011F)and new hardware for the spherical joint at the end of the downpipe: 1 Cone Seal (A100S6005F), 2 M10 Studs (A100S0030F0), 2 Springs (A100S0032F), 2 Spring Washers (A100S0031F) and 4 M10 Kaylock nuts (SJ089W0001).
Now bearing in mind the original mild steel exhaust was still on my Elan, an angle grinder was an essential tool as those exhaust joints were never coming apart. I have a pair of low approach ramps so I had to do front and rear ends separately. It's worth removing the bottom rear screws from the right rear wheel arch liner so you can get better access to the rear silencer bracket that wraps around the silencer case. You can also drop the entire mount from inside the boot if you prefer. I used the angle grinder to cut through the joint just ahead of the rear silencer joint. This was actually a mistake as I'd have been better cutting just behind the joint. The rear silencer unit seems to have been designed to just about slip out between the rear wishbones and suspension turret. So the slightly longer length I'd left meant I couldn't remove the rear silencer and had to make another cut behind the joint. Once off I backed the car off the ramps (sounding like a tractor now) and then raised on the ramps this time from the front, split the spherical joint at the end of the downpipe and removed the front and centre sections. Remember to remove the cone seal from the downpipe as it's easy to miss.
Ahead of fitting the new sections, I ensured all the sliding joints were free to slide. It's really worth opening these joints up a little bit as it's so much easier to fit when the joints are loose. They'll close up again nicely when they're clamped and I used jointing paste to ensure no exhaust gas leaks. My front section also required a little bit more metal bashing to provide adequate (10mm) clearance to the steering rack. It's worth checking all the sections are clear of chassis, steering and any other adjacent components.
Putting the new sections on was pretty straightforward, I used a couple of sockets; one 1/4" socket set small enough to get in at the front of the spherical joint and a 3/8 socket set with extender bar to get at the rear from the rear of the underplate. Getting the rubber mounts onto the hangers is tricky and requires a fair bit of strength. It's worth soaking the mounts in diluted washing-up liquid which helps them slide onto the hangers better.
Once the new front section was fitted, I switched the ramps to the rear and fitted the centre section and rear silencer, all pretty straight forward.
I'm pleased with the end result (see attached photo). The exhaust fits really well, tail pipe is centre to the rear bumper and all the other sections fit well (though as said earlier I did have to modify the front section for better clearance to the steering rack). The exhaust note is really nice, sounds sporty without being embarrassing noisy. I've not tried in on the motorway yet to see if there's any booms but I'm expecting it to be fine.
So, it's a thumbs up from me for SJS's system, if you want a stainless exhaust that replicates the original as close as possible.
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Thanks,
Neil.