HES replaced 11/12, <1k miles, 41 and 42 again!

[texaselite]

My car went through a major overhaul in November:

Coil Packs, ignition wires and spark plugs had already been replaced about 6 months prior

Nov Repairs included (heartburn thinking about how much all this cost me):
HES (main reason it came in b/c of Code 41)
Front rotors (plain EBC)
Front pads (EBC Redstuff)
Rear pads (standard EBC Ultimax)
Stainless steel brake hoses
Caliper seal kits and sliding kits (all 4)
Piper Exhaust + ceramic coated downpipe
O2 sensor
Ported Wastegate
Oil pan gasket
Valve cover gasket
Struts/Shocks (all 4)
Front lower control arm bushings
Front upper and lower ball joints
Oil change
Timing belt

Car has been driven less than 1k miles since then (weekend driver at best). I spent about 5 hours cleaning it last weekend (wash, clay bar, polish, wax) and so decided to finally drive it for the first time in about 3 weeks yesterday -- 1 minute out of my driveway and I feel a "burp" and see CEL turn on, turn around immediately and take it back home. Paper clip test reveals 41 and 42.

1) How did the HES go bad so quickly?

2) I have a tiny leak in the oil cooler (leaves about a dime size of oil if I leave it for 2 weeks), so I probably need to get that replaced...my mechanic is an hour away...am I going to have to pay towing fees to get it there again or can I drive without potential damage to engine?

3) Any other ideas before I commit to buying another HES and having him reset timing (I can probably live w/the oil leak for now)?

4) If ALL I had the mechanic do was replace the HES and reset timing (since he already changed out the belt) -- how much time should that take him?

It's really odd how much money I put into this car vs how much I can actually drive it...yet it would kill me to think about parting ways with it. I thought after the last round of repairs that cost well over $5k, that I would have a solid ride that could handle every day if I needed it to...but still not convinced I will ever get there and that is frustrating.

[Fourdoorcat]

There is a bit of electrical wiring required to fit the Hall Effect sensor. If these crimps were poorly made, it could result in the problem you describe. I suggest this is the first place to look. Good luck; let us know what you find.

Ken

[texaselite]

So play around with the crimps and hope that does it? Do I need to disconnect battery after to reset the codes or not?

[steve matthews]

Yes

Steve- been their done that.

[texaselite]

No luck...messed with wires and still getting 41 and 42. Let the engine idle for about a minute and gave it a little gas...let off and 3 seconds later it hesitated and stalled out on me.

I guess that answers my own question about driving vs towing -- no way I can drive it given the lack of power and hesitation.

Leaves me to these 2 questions:
If ALL I had the mechanic do was replace the HES and reset timing (since he already changed out the belt not too long ago) -- how much time should that take him, (so I can understand what I am in for)?

Where is the cheapest place (I am in TX) to get another damn HES?

Thanks!

[steve matthews]

Start over, re-set the cas and adjust timing about 1hr.
Are the gaps correct on the sensor?
Are they using the correct timing marks?

Is their info being left out?

Steve

[Steve_P]

Oil Cooler!!!

Just a note of caution if you are seeing any leaks however small from the oil cooler area - the connectors could be getting weak through
heat cycling - if one suddenly goes before you know it the oil will be deposited on the road and your engine damaged rather swiftly It has
happened to quite a few IIRC on this board, so please have the connections renewed if you are in any doubt! Steve