I just replaced my plugs, leads, and coil packs. MSD coil packs, NGK plugs, and performance leads with firebraid from Robie the Robot.
Here's what might be good to add to that Wiki write-up:
It's possible, and very easy, to replace the coil packs without taking the whole coil assembly out, like is described in the Wiki. The two coil packs are held to the bracket via two 7/32 inch bolts. The black plastic base of the assembly, that contains the wiring, is held on by those same bolts, by compression. There's apparently a grommet or insulator in the holes in the plastic base, because the bolts don't fall out when you loosen them, which is nice. Leave the three wiring harness connectors connected, and the wiring base will pretty much stay where it is when you remove the coil packs. There's a couple of built-in studs on the base that go into holes in the bracket to line it up so it all goes back together easily.
I used a short ratchet handle, with a 4 inch extension to easily reach the bolts and have room to turn the handle.
When replacing the coil packs, I'm betting it's easier to handle them individually, than it is to remove the whole assembly. The entire job (plugs, leads, and coil packs) took only about 30 minutes.
sorry I didn't take any pictures, but using the ones in the existing Wiki write-up should be good enough. Locating the bolts that hold the packs to the bracket is also easy. Just look at your new packs to see where the bolts are. The two top bolts can be seen. The two lower ones you have to feel for.


. Having cruised along all these years on the original coil packs, I was suddenly running on 2 cylinders. Referring to the excellent wiki write-up, I moved the header tank and intake hose to find my coil pack assembly further obscured by two rigid A/C plumbing pipes. Finding this post (upon which the second section of the wiki entry is based) l took the tip of buying the new coil packs and by referring to them for the bolt locations the R&R was just as easy as described.