PLEASE GUYS...NEED REALY HELP!!!

[*LUCA*]

Hi guys....I have a big problem with the Elan's engine!!
Waiting the Geoff's USB connector, I try to find the problem of my car.
The problem was misfire at some rpm (1500-2500). Error 41 and 42.
So.....changed CAS, SPARK PLUGs, WIRES SET, but...no way. Same problems!
Again....changed CAM BELT, ALTERNATOR BELT and PAS and...miracle!!
The car runs great, but only for some days!!
Now it's realy annoying....continous misfires...at 1500, 2500, 3000, 3500...
Please ELAN'S PEOPLE....now also the daewoo matiz is more fast of my elan!!!
The paper clip test give again error 41 and 42....
Changed again the spark plugs, but nothing!
The problem appears after 15/20 min. of normal run and does not disappear until don't stop the car and wait that became cool.
WHAT I CAN DO???

[Doc Fizzix]

Sounds like the coils may be going out (error 42), also like the CAS may be bad (error 41)

[GeoffSmith]

Luca,

Check above for the ALDL codes |Repairs| and |Diagnose CEL|.

Error 41 is for a fault with the Cam Angle Sensor (CAS) and error 42 is Electronic Spark Timing circuit. As the CAS is the key to when the spark plugs are pulsed, I would imagine that a failure of the CAS could also produce an error 42. If the recommended first step of wiggling the CAS leads does not work then you could follow the |Fixing the CAS yourself| link and you will find this which shows how to fix the CAS. They are prone to getting moisture in and corroding so you may be able to fix it. Failing that, you can buy a Hall Effect Sensor A100E0102S from Lotus Aftersales for 20GBP.

Geoff

[*LUCA*]

Hi Geoff...thank's again for your help.
I have changed the "hall effect sensor" two months ago. I have take the "new model" at 20GBPlike you say, but the problem is again present.
The strange think is that, after the change of the CAM BELT, ALTERNATOR BELT and PAS, the problem was disappeared for ten days. Now, wath you think? Was only a coincidence? I need an other new Hall Effect Sensor? I don't want hate the Elan, but so it's realy annoying!!
And again what can I see with the Elanscan in this problem? I hope that the cable will arrive soon, but after somebody have to tech me to use it!
Thank you and...goodnight.

[*LUCA*]

And thank you to Doc Fizzy, yes, I have some doubt on the coils....the problem is that here in Italy is impossible to find them at a good price.

[lotusgirlmarie]

You might wnat to look in the Ignition postings for the MSD or Accelle coils. they might be easier to source.

Just curious but what about a bad earth to the block. that could cause both the CAS and the Ignition to fault (my car had that problem along with an injector fault when the car was warm) as there is too high a resistance voltage will fluctuate for all electronic devices on the engine. Try taking an 8 gauge piece of wire and grounding the head to the chassis. If it fixes the problem then you know what you hafe to do.

[*LUCA*]

Thank you Marie (oh, I was in San Francisco the last year, I realy realy love your city!!) so....I have tried with a direct wire from the battery to the block, but without results.

[Doug]

remember that the car stores the error codes for the last 50 times you start the car -- so you have to clear the codes after servicing it or they will still show on the Paperclip Test !!!

To clear the codes you either use the Lotus dealer's scan tool OR you do it the poor-man's way by disconnecting the main car battery for 30 seconds and then reconnect it

[*LUCA*]

Oh yes...the poor man's way for me!!!
but the problem is still present!
Thank you Doug!

[davidjt]

I have a pair of coils which were working but replaced with various other bits prior to a rolling road session; I'll find out the cost of postage to Italy on Monday, if you think they'd be useful.

[*LUCA*]

Ok Guys...I'm come back and had take the first run with the Elanscan.
To refresh, my Elan have a bad problem. The engine misfire at 1500 rpm, 3000 rpm and more. The rpm gauge became crazy around these value until don't come over.
Now I have made e long run with Elanscan. The problem come after 15/20 min. Before this time the Elan is realy FANTASTIC, realy realy a MONSTER!!!
After 20 minuts of running....it's realy annoying!!
For information I have just changed:

CAS (two time!!! (with the new type))
SPARK PLUGS (Original NGK)
WIRES SET
CAM BELT
COILS

...BUT THE PROBLEM IS STILL HERE!!!

My Elan present some anomalies, I have posted the pictures of these and two Elanscan's files, one from cold and another after 30 minutes.

CAN SOMEONE READ MY RESULT, GIVE A LOOK TO MY PICTURES AND HELP ME??
thank you!

[*LUCA*]

again

[*LUCA*]

AND NOW THE ELANSCAN RESULTS!!!
ONE, THE FIRST TIME IS FROM COLD TO 30/40 MINUTES.
THE SECOND IS AFTER THIS TIME COME BACK HOME!
THE FIRST 20 MINUTES WERE FANTASTIC.
THE LAST MINUTES WERE ORRIBILE!!!!

[Sy V]

Ok Guys...I'm come back and had take the first run with the Elanscan.
To refresh, my Elan have a bad problem. The engine misfire at 1500 rpm, 3000 rpm and more. The rpm gauge became crazy around these value until don't come over.
Now I have made e long run with Elanscan. The problem come after 15/20 min. Before this time the Elan is realy FANTASTIC, realy realy a MONSTER!!!
After 20 minuts of running....it's realy annoying!!
For information I have just changed:

CAS (two time!!! (with the new type))
SPARK PLUGS (Original NGK)
WIRES SET
CAM BELT
COILS

...BUT THE PROBLEM IS STILL HERE!!!

My Elan present some anomalies, I have posted the pictures of these and two Elanscan's files, one from cold and another after 30 minutes.

CAN SOMEONE READ MY RESULT, GIVE A LOOK TO MY PICTURES AND HELP ME??
thank you!

Luca I am miles away from my car to compare but:
That wire (I think) is the power to the BSV, but what is the circular device photo right...part of the ACU?

[Sy V]

again

First picture: MBC; always likely to cause problems.

Second picture - like the twin pipes.

Third picture is the exhaust gas temperature sensor (rare in the UK, I think it's a Euro-emissions part)...apparently disconnected...why?

[GeoffSmith]

I have a spare connection by the BSV which looks similar so there may not be a problem. Check that the BSV is connected though (you can see it is in my photograph).

[rip]

Once your problem is resolved, I recommend you run Elanscan and keep the log as a baseline.
If you get any problems at a later date and need to run Elanscan again, comparing your results with the 'good' scan will give you a good place to start fault-finding.

[GeoffSmith]

At around about 900s on the first run there is a spurious coolant temperature reading, a CAS error flag is set and an EST (exhaust sensor temperature?????) monitor error flag is set. The wastegate duty cycle ceases, the knock counter increases. After this time, the coolant temperature increases from normal (80-85°C) towards 100-110°C.

In the second run, the coolant temperature is consistently above 100°C.

The lack of power is (I believe) due to the coolant temperature being too high causing the reduction in boost (you can see the effect of the MBC with boost up to 0.9bar). Have you changed the thermostat Luca - it looks like it might be sticking.

Geoff

[*LUCA*]

thank you Geoff...so
The thermostat was controlled some time ago, and it was looks like good, but not changed.
I have a doubt, say me what you think...
After the substitution of the cam-belt the Elan was great, no loss of power, no more jump in the RPM, no more gauge became crazy, and no more me inside the elan like inside in a big shaker!!!
But all this was only a dream lasted 10 days.
After the problems come back, and more than before.
So....can be the problem legacy to the cam-belt or some regulation of that?
Or, may be, can the fuel pump give this problem?
Thank you...

PS. In the result of my Elanscan, from 1340s to 1583s, I was stopped to try the cooling fans.

IF SOMEONE NEED EXCEL FILES TO HELP ME I CAN GIVE THAT.
THANK YOU

[lotuska]

I had a similar problem following the work I did on the head, I too replaced the CAS but this didn't fix it. I then noticed that the earth on the coil pack (there is an earth wire to one of the bolts) had no insulators as described in the manual.

Replacing these with some I made from a plastic lid seems to have fixed the problem...why this caused the problem I have no idea.