Leads, coils, plugs, starters, starting probs etc.
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by siejai » Fri 14.11.2008, 22:48
I was almost home and stopped at a light and it turned green and I went to take off and the car stalled out. I started it back up and pressed harder on the gas and it wasn't revving up smoothly at all, but I got it to take off. It was sputtering all the way home and I parked it and let it idle, hoping the problem would work itself out. The problem got worse and the car was unable to maintain an idle and it cut off. Now I can't even get it to start, sometimes it will almost start then sputter out again. I don't know what's wrong with it, maybe the fuel?
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siejai
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by Dave Eds » Fri 14.11.2008, 22:52
Did you get a check light?
If so try the paper clip test.
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by siejai » Sat 15.11.2008, 01:46
Hmm... no check engine light. I only get the lights come on when it stalls out... but that's just the check sequence to show they are working.
I tried to start it again and I had it running for almost a minute by pumping the gas pedal, couldn't get it up above 3000 rpm and finally it wouldn't go up that high and it hovered around 500 rpm before choking out again.
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by Doc Fizzix » Sat 15.11.2008, 04:37
Man-o-man
Where to begin? Start wit the basics, check your gas and make sure the flow is correct (in other words make sure your pump is working) If there is no check engine light then it makes this a bit more difficult (old fashioned), maybe it would still be a good idea just to check to see if there are any stored codes in the ECU
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by Doug » Sat 15.11.2008, 07:49
be sure the 6mm hex adjuster bolt on the CAS unit hasn't come loose. If it did it could go far out of adjustment and change the timing enough to do the above. So pop the hood/bonnet and wiggle the CAS unit to be sure it is not loose . . .
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by stevieg8571 » Sun 16.11.2008, 02:22
Hi,
I had a very similar problem 2 yrs ago.
The car idled fine and would even rev normally but just spluttered when I tried to drive it at anything above 1500rpm.
I got fault code 34 which is the MAP sensor, although the CEL didn't illuminate until I shorted the pins.
The MAP sensor is located on the rear bulkhead in the engine bay, next to headlamp control unit (IIRC). In my case the 3 connectors had just dropped down slightly, probably due to vibration over time, so simply pushing them back up and tie-wrapping them into place solved it. There is a better write up in this section if yours is the same fault.
Hope you fix it soon whatever the problem is.
Steve
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by siejai » Sun 16.11.2008, 03:47
Not sure that is my problem as the car won't idle. I really have to repeatedly stab (in and out) the throttle pedal just to keep it running at idle. I didn't get a chance to look at it today, but I'm going to put some more gas in it and change out the fuel filter (if I can figure out where it is). Hopefully I can get it running soon as I was planning on making a pretty long trip to see my parents over the holiday, and I still need to get the wheels balanced.
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siejai
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by RatHead » Sun 16.11.2008, 23:41
I would recommend checking all spark plugs and leads are ok.
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by siejai » Tue 18.11.2008, 00:05
Hi,
Just finished changing out the fuel filter, and I put 5 gallons of gas in it (because it was fairly low when it stopped running). Tried to start it up and still the same problem. Unfortunately I only have an hour and a half of daylight after I get done with work, so I wasn't really able to do much more troubleshooting. I did pick up some starting fluid when I was at the auto parts store (the stuff you spray in the intake) and I tried spraying some of that in there and it started right up (when I put my foot on the gas) and revved up to about 4500 rpm, and then died down to an idle, then coughed a few times and died on me again. I'm not an expert at working on cars at all, but to me this seems like a fuel problem for sure. So if it's not out of gas, and it's not the filter, I guess the next place I need to check is the fuel pump...
... I'll let you guys know if I figure out anything.
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by Doc Fizzix » Tue 18.11.2008, 00:21
siejai wrote:Hi,
Just finished changing out the fuel filter, and I put 5 gallons of gas in it (because it was fairly low when it stopped running). Tried to start it up and still the same problem. Unfortunately I only have an hour and a half of daylight after I get done with work, so I wasn't really able to do much more troubleshooting. I did pick up some starting fluid when I was at the auto parts store (the stuff you spray in the intake) and I tried spraying some of that in there and it started right up (when I put my foot on the gas) and revved up to about 4500 rpm, and then died down to an idle, then coughed a few times and died on me again. I'm not an expert at working on cars at all, but to me this seems like a fuel problem for sure. So if it's not out of gas, and it's not the filter, I guess the next place I need to check is the fuel pump...
... I'll let you guys know if I figure out anything.
It sure sounds like a fuel problem. check the connections on your injector signal wires, I had a similar problem a few years back where the injector wire contacts became corroded and it took me forever to find the problem. You can clean the connections and see if that makes a difference.
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by siejai » Tue 18.11.2008, 00:29
It runs now... I feel stupid. I did the procedure in the workshop manual to clear the fuel lines so I could change the fuel filter and I didn't put the inertia switch back when I was done. I popped the inertia switch back down and it runs and idles now.
So now I'm not sure whether it was my fuel filter (but it needed to be changed anyhow) or my fuel gauge isn't reading right (and I was really out of gas). Or maybe I had water in my tank... I did put some fuel treatment stuff in my tank (that's supposed to remove water) but I hope that's not the case. Anyhow it's working now, thanks for all the help guys!
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by bobbrown » Tue 18.11.2008, 00:31
siejai wrote:Hi,
I did pick up some starting fluid when I was at the auto parts store (the stuff you spray in the intake) ..........
Nice to hear you have fixed it.
IF that is the same "cold start" stuff we get over here would treat that stuff with extreem caution, if I ever see the stuff I throw it in the bin.
It can cause more problems than it cures, and has been known to cause bent connecting rods!!!!!!
Now bin that can of *!?p
Bob
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by dedmans » Tue 18.11.2008, 18:56
Glad you fixed it.
Keep an eye on your filler cap drain because water in the tank will cause these problems as well as a partially blocking the injectors.
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by siejai » Wed 19.11.2008, 07:07
Of course I'm not going to use that starter spray anymore

I only bought it because I was searching the Isuzu forums and found someone that had starting problems and said that fixed it. But I don't doubt the stuff could do some damage to the engine if you sprayed it right in there with the throttle plate open... either way I don't need it anymore, but it was helpful to determine my spark plugs weren't bad at least.
I did some reading up about the filler tank drain. I don't think mine is plugged, I've only seen the slightest bit of moisture around the area and the gas cap doesn't leak. (I know that for sure since they do some type of pressure test on it in order to pass emissions here in NJ). I'm thinking there may be something wrong with the gauge... The manual says the low fuel light is supposed to come on when there is 2.x gallons left in the tank, and I never got a light. I put 5 gallons in the tank after changing the fuel filter, and the gas gauge read just above the 1/4 mark. I've been driving it a bit (probably a bit over 50 miles), and it's now below the 1/4 mark just barely... but I'm not sure if it's because it's reading incorrectly or because it's so fuel efficient.
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