Coil pack access

[texaselite]

How in the world am I supposed to get access to the coil packs with these two hoses (metal, not rubber) sitting on top? I don't see these in the WikiLEC tutorial. The black looks like rubber, but it's actually just an insulation/wrapping.

Picture:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3sxiw ... sp=sharing

Any suggestions?

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Those are AC hoses.

You just work around them...

CAREFULLY move or remove the overflow / header tank out of the way (don't forget to bleed if removed) and reach around the pipes.

There are 2 screws holding the coils to the ICM and the mounting plate under it.

Observe where each plug wire goes and unplug them from the coils. If you don't have original HP leads, you should consider marking the plug wires at the coil ends so you know which wire is which.

The 3 connections to the ICM are unique to each other so can only go back one way but you might want to mark them?

Remove the 4 bolts - the heads are an odd SAE size I think 7/32" or 9/32". The coils and ICm will come away and out the space gained by moving the header tank.

After you have removed the original ICM, check the electrical connections it they are a bit corroded or dirty, you probably want to use some electrical / contact cleaner on the plug pins so the connections are clean and functional.

Put the new ICM and coils together - make sure the rubber gaskets are around the coil connectors and re-bolt the bundle to the backing plate.

Insert the 3 electrical plugs, then the plug wires and then put the overflow / header tank back.

It isn't as bad as it seems. I have done it numerous times when I was testing the ICMs to make sure they were a correct replacement part. You might want to mark the new coils with a small model brush: 1 and 4 on the one coil and 2 and 3 on the other. Make sure you put them in the right place - the coils are interchangeable, but the wiring isn't so make sure the 1/4 coil is the rear-most and the 2/3 is the front-most.

[texaselite]

Should I just drain the radiator, so I can remove the coolant housing totally from both connections?

[Brit-Car-Nut]

That is up to you. It requires more work in the end, but the tank is expensive to replace and probably brittle.

[texaselite]

Successfully removed! Thanks.

2 additional questions:

"Put the new ICM and coils together - make sure the rubber gaskets are around the coil connectors and re-bolt the bundle to the backing plate. "
Which rubber gaskets are you talking about here? I have a brand new ICM as well as new coil packs on the way. But this is the 2nd time it's being replaced (1st was by mechanic, so he could have removed the gaskets you speak of).

Also, the earthing wire -- when I dis-assembled, it was between the plastic washer and the backing plate -- is that where it's supposed to be?

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Where each coil pushes onto the two blades sticking out of the ICM there is an oval rubber seal. They were under the white styrofoam protector that was pushed over the blades.

I gather that you ended up removing the backing plate? It wasn't necessary and a real pain to get the correct nylon shouldered bushing in the correct holes. There are 2 short nylon shouldered bushings and 1 long one. There are also supposed to be 3 flat nylon washers - but my car didn't have them...

The parts guide has them pictures in section 40.17B

coils.jpg

[texaselite]

Can someone help me understand exactly where the earth wire needs to go? There is a metal backplate, nylon washer (shouldered), metal washer, and the screw. Where does the earth wire go? Behind backing plate, between body and plate? Between nylon shoulder and metal washer? Other?

[mitreklov]

Does this help, a diagram from the engine management manual.
It seems that the module has it's own dedicated ground. The other two mounting bolts are also insulated.

Tim

[epipete]

Can someone help me understand exactly where the earth wire needs to go? There is a metal backplate, nylon washer (shouldered), metal washer, and the screw. Where does the earth wire go? Behind backing plate, between body and plate? Between nylon shoulder and metal washer? Other?

Two nylon washers, one of which is shouldered, placed in position as shown in Tim's drawing above. I thought it was a bugger of a job without the picture but this clarifies it well.

[tigerdog]

Late to the party, but I found it very simple to replace the coils with the base plate left in place. I left hoses attached and simply moved the header tank out of the way. No, I'm not a contortionist but I play one in the garage. Hope everything goes back together easily!