Hand Break

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Hand Break

Postby mfriel » Thu 23.05.2013, 17:42

Hi Guys,

I've noticed that the hand break has passed MOT etc, but I'm not 100% happy with it. Comes on after 6 clicks, pretty much max travel. I've tried pressing the break peddle down and moving the hand break up and down to try and take in the slack/ reduce travel, but hasn't made any noticable difference. I took it on a v.steep hill to see if it would hold and...... I wouldn't leave it, put it that way!

So, any recommendations, things to have a look at before I go to the specialist?

Kind regards.

Mike.
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Re: Hand Break

Postby Brit-Car-Nut » Thu 23.05.2013, 17:52

The handbrake system is cable controlled. The cables pull levers that wind a wedge to apply pressure to the brake pads to create hold.

The cables are adjustable at the handle so you might adjust some of the slack out - but make sure you leave some slack.

The calipers are single piston design and the caliper body has to slide on sleeves to engage the second brake pad. The M100 is infamous for the sliders not working well to the point of freezing so the brakes only work with one pad.

Is it possible that you have Hi-Spec uprated rear brakes? They had a problem with the handbrake design and didn't hold very well.

You need to inspect the brakes and make sure everything is working as designed.
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Re: Hand Break

Postby mfriel » Thu 23.05.2013, 18:06

Hi Brit-Car-Nut,

I'll have a good look over the weekend.

Cheers.

Mike.
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Re: Hand Break

Postby hatters » Thu 23.05.2013, 19:28

mfriel wrote:Hi Guys,

I've noticed that the hand break has passed MOT etc, but I'm not 100% happy with it. Comes on after 6 clicks, pretty much max travel. I've tried pressing the break peddle down and moving the hand break up and down to try and take in the slack/ reduce travel, but hasn't made any noticable difference. I took it on a v.steep hill to see if it would hold and...... I wouldn't leave it, put it that way!

So, any recommendations, things to have a look at before I go to the specialist?

Kind regards.

Mike.


Mine is exactly the same, you certainly wouldn't trust it, and park it on a hill not in gear I think I will have a look at the adjusters on the cables under the leaver how much slack should you leave?
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Re: Hand Break

Postby Jeemy » Thu 23.05.2013, 19:42

• IE.4 - PARKING BRAKE MECHANISM
It is important, if the self adjusting mechanism is to function correctly,
that UlC caliper levers are fully back against their stop brackets when the
parking brake is 'off'.
To Adjust:
I. Ensure that the pads are at their working position, by applying hard pressure
to the footbrake pedal several times.
2. At each caliper, check that the parking brake lever is fully against its
'off' stop bracket, and check that when the parking brake is applied and
released, the caliper levers return immediately, and are not delayed by
excess friction in the cables or linkage. Rectify as necessary.
Page 1
Cable abutment
bracket
Lever return
Caliper parking
brake lever
Lever in contact
with 'off' stop
PUll out the tunnel top oddments tray to gain access to the parking brake
cable adjusters at their forward end abutment. Use the adjusters to remove
the slack from each cable, but ensure that the caliper levers are still in
contact with their stops.
4. Operate the parking brake several limes to allow the automatic adjusters
within the caliper to take up any excess clearance, and check that the
parking brake lever travels no more than 7 clicks when fully applied.
S. Refit the tunnel top tray.
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Re: Hand Break

Postby Jeemy » Thu 23.05.2013, 19:43

So 6 clicks seems within tolerances?!
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Re: Hand Break

Postby mfriel » Thu 23.05.2013, 20:01

Thanks Jeemy.

I'll let you know how I get on. Hoping the weather is going to be good for the bank holiday!

Mike.
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Re: Hand Break

Postby mfriel » Sat 01.06.2013, 23:32

Handbreak seems to working!

Mike.
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