Hey, sorry I haven't been around lately guys. I thought I sent you guys detailed instructions/info/notes and my maps via Email...didn't you receive it?
I sent it to both you & Mark on the same day, I think he told me he received the message...if you didn't let me know & I will resend it.
At any rate, here is the message I sent (less the maps, but I can send those to anyone who needs them, just let me know).
My .02 on the tuning is that I do not see what difference it makes whether on or off a dyno. All Dyno-Jets I have checked into are inertia type. This means you WILL NOT be able to tune any better (and I think it will be worse, personally) than real-world tuning. If there were a means to vary the load/resistance of the rollers, THEN we you would have a valuable tuning tool. As it is, I don't see an advantage over road-tuning.
If I floor the thing on the rollers, there is only a certain amount of intertia present. This will not be nearly as much as say, if I floor it while driving up a steep hill. Now, maybe I have missing something here, and if so that is good, as I was really happy about renting a dyno by the hour and tuning 'till my heart was content! Upon further thought decided it would pretty much be wasted money as I would have to do real-world tuning after the fact anyway (usually done by driving/checking logs/changing tables). I just do not really see how you can get a good tune across the entire RPM range/Load points with a static amount of inertia....
Anyway, I guess it is up to everyone to decide what they think is best, maybe some will have access to better dynos than I do.
I compared the schematic for the E6GMX with that of the E6GM and they are the same, so my notes should apply to both.
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Original Message:
Firstly, I have an E6GM, not the E6GMX. I checked a while back, and as far as I remember everything was the same as far as wiring. I think they can use the same maps also. I would make sure to become familiar with the documentation. Even though This should enable you to bypass most of it, it is still good to be familiar with the setup process in case things don't work out.
OK, first things first. Let's make sure the timing is dead on with the stock ECU. Changing the trigger angle in the Haltech setup will also do this, but in order for my map to work we will need to be close. My angle number is such that it is dead on with the stock ECU. Hopefully, if you set yours dead on as well, my map will be accurate for you. (Once you start the engine, verify this with a timing light and by locking the timing at 10 in the Haltech setup.)
Next, let's get the wiring taken care of! You will need to Move some wires in the harness, or you will need to make an "adaptor harness" to take care of the differences in the pinouts.
Personally I went the later route, and I made an adapter for only the wires I needed. My thinking was that there were some differences in comparing the two pinouts, so I didn't want to take any chances. However, I understand that several of the Isuzu folks have just changed the pins without any problems.
Differences we need to take care of:
Function: Stock: Haltech
A/C Control A2 C2
Injetctor C15 D16
Secondaries A4 NA*
* If the E6GMX has an RPM activated output, you may be able to use it. Basically, they are open when the engine is off, and while the engine is above ~4000 RPM. They are closed anytime the engine is running and the RPMs are below ~4000.
Grounding pin A4 will close them, lifting the ground will open them again. I had a really nice RPM switch made be a guy at
www.bakerelectronix.com. This way I figure I can play around with it on the dyno and see what RPM is best for power.
Next, Pins D3 and D10 need to be grounded.
A jumper needs to be put into place from the aux +5V A4 or A5 on plug 2 to the EST bypass on pin D5.
There are other steps involved in setting up a map from scratch, but it sounds like you guys both have a similar setup to me so I would suggest just loading up my map and watching the wideband O2. Of course, double check all this information against the pinout for your own ECU to make sure they are the same and I didn't make any mistakes.
This all seems kind of complicated at first, but it really is not bad at all once you get into it. I have attached my map which while I am no pro, I think is pretty darned good....the dyno will soon tell.
Good luck!
While some people talk about getting a basic map and then driving around with a wideband sensor on the car to tweak the settings, that's going to be (a) dangerous and (b) tortuous.
