remote boot release

[Enright]

Neat solenoid (better than my 'T' shaped one - but i'm looking for a smaller one now i know the system works......keep watching for further updates)

I can't remember what I got that one off.
It was obtained from a scrapyard a year or two ago - off a Cavalier or Carlton's central locking system I think.

Edit: I just found the same type on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OMEGA-SALOON-BOOT ... dZViewItem

The nice thing was that I was able to just cut a sort of slot and slip the solenoid inside then bolt it from in front.
The not so nice thing was that I drilled a couple of holes too many.
Oh, and the bloody frame filled up with fibre-glass dust and so now it's covering my boot carpet with it!

[dapinky]

The not so nice thing was that I drilled a couple of holes too many.
Oh, and the bloody frame filled up with fibre-glass dust and so now it's covering my boot carpet with it!

Golden rule #1 - When cutting or drilling fibreglass, have a hoover (Dyson, electrolux etc etc ) sucking all the debris away while you work - do you really want tiny bits of glass going into your lungs or eyes?
(or onto the boot carpet ).

[surfboardfiller]

Phil, I wasn't talking about locking keys in the boot ON PURPOSE!!!!

Of course the answer is do not lock your keys in the boot. Thanks for pointing out the obvious though.

I dont understand what button on the dash you are talking about now...in your previous post you were just going to use the alarm fob button

How exactly would you do it?

Sorry, I couldn't resist paul, the dark side of me took over me and turned me sarcastic!
Not going to just use the keyfob, but that wouldn't be too bad an idea.

The previous post I was talking about the wire for the internal button passing through the ignition; so when the ignition is live, the button on the dash opens the boot. Like the windscreen wipers and radio don't have power when the ignition is off.
There are a few small spaces on my dash where I could add a button without damaging the dashboard. I'd have to wire it up to the alarm anyway so I could stick a button in without much trouble, just above the Alarm LED would be nice.

[Doug]

be sure to write "Passenger Eject" on the new button, Phil

also, for those DIYers, put some masking tape on the surface right over the cut lines before you cut it with your cutting wheel and this will help keep the edges from splintering . . .

I see there's a GM part number on that Omega Solenoid, might be worth cross-referencing to see how much it is and how available . . .

[Elanlover]

Here's a thought............

I see plenty of fuel cap release buttons on eBay along with trunk release buttons. So, now my brain is whirring and smoke's coming out of my ears...........

What if some industrious person were to mount 3 solenoids like this in the car. One for trunk, one for fuel and one for tonneau??? Think it would work???? The solenoids and buttons are pretty cheap. Would address the perennial pain in the butt of having the manual fuel and tonneau releases on opposite sides of the car.

[Doug]

yes, or you could put the boot release on a fuel release switch so that a prospective theif would not know it opens the boot !!!!!

[GeoffSmith]

What if some industrious person were to mount 3 solenoids like this in the car. One for trunk, one for fuel and one for tonneau???

Connect microswitches to the release handles on both sides of the car - clockwise=fuel, anti(counter)clockwise=hood(tonneau) and pull=boot(trunk)? Go for it Blair!

[Elanlover]

Connect microswitches to the release handles on both sides of the car - clockwise=fuel, anti(counter)clockwise=hood(tonneau) and pull=boot(trunk)? Go for it Blair!

Well, that kind of switching might be a bit ambitious for me but I did see a small trunk/fuel release combo button and simple momentary buttons for the tonneau are easy to find. Would love to do it in a way that the manual triggers still work if there's a problem with the electric alternatives.

Hmm.............

[dapinky]

Here's a thought............

I see plenty of fuel cap release buttons on eBay along with trunk release buttons.

The fuel cap release is my next thought........

a solenoid pulling the current cable is the present consideration.......

The hood cover isn't a big problem to me as it's on the drivers side, but the petrol flap on the other side is a pain (As yours is LHD, it may be the other way round for you!)

[Elanlover]

The hood cover isn't a big problem to me as it's on the drivers side, but the petrol flap on the other side is a pain (As yours is LHD, it may be the other way round for you!)

Exactly right. I just figured that if you want to put in 2 solenoids then 3's not much more effort.

[Monty]

I`ve won a solenoid off ebay which came from a M100 so i`m just wondering what you guys (Dave, neil) used for cutting a slot in to the fiberglass and is it possible to run the wiring on the inside of the boot so the wires are hidden?

[dapinky]

Jay,

The slot can be cut with a fine angle grinder disc (lots of horrible dust which may kill you - so keep a hoover going near the work) or an air saw (less dust).

If you look at my photos earlier on, you can see where i routed the wiring - i'm sure there are other options, as the frame is hollow, but it will need to come out somewhere, and the grommet is already quite close to the hinge.

None of it is noticable in daily use (wires cable tied to hinges) anyway.

[Enright]

I think I did it a slightly different way - not that I'm arguing of course!

I simply marked out the position I wanted the slot in (a 4"L x 1"H slot, 1 1/2" to the RHS of the bit where the lump for the lock mech flattens out - you'll see what I mean) and then used a drill to make a few holes inside the marked rectangle. I was going to make lots of holes and then join them all up, but I got bored and instead stuck the biggest drill bit that I could find in the chuck and pulled the drill around the rectangle using it as a milling cutter! Finally I tidied up the slot with a file.

The only wires you can see are where they came out from the hollow frame and followed the hinge through the same grommet as the boot light switch wiring. I cable-tied mine to the hinge and you'd have to look especially in order to spot them.

[Monty]

Thanks for the advice guys, i was going to try to cut out a section in one piece so i could put it back to cover the solenoid but i think the one i`ve got is a bit chunky for that lol.

BTW what diameter wire should i use to hook up the electrics?

[Enright]

I just used some 2 core mains lead cut off an old appliance that I was throwing away.
I knew it could take 13 Amps which was way more than it would ever be required to do (5A inline fuse with a direct feed from the battery from a switch), and it had the advantage of having a black outer layer too.

[dapinky]

But if you ain't a real sheapskate like Neil, just use any thinish cable, there isn't much load on the solenoid.

7 Amp wire is ample.

[Enright]

Yep, have a nice cheap neat installation, or a more expensive untidier one - your choice!!!

[Monty]

sheapskate like Neil.

Did you mean sheepskate


Neil, how did you bolt the solenoid in position?

[Enright]

Did you mean sheepskate

Neil, how did you bolt the solenoid in position?

I only WORK in Derby (where Ram-raiding has an entirely different meaning) - I'm not FROM there!

The solenoid I bought was slim enough to slip inside the boot lid's framework and also had mounting holes in it already, so I just bolted straight through the framework into the solenoid itself. Are you aiming to have this done before Hethel? If so I should be able to take/post a couple of pics later. Otherwise you're welcome to have a look at the installation while we're there.

[Monty]

Did you mean sheepskate

Neil, how did you bolt the solenoid in position?

I only WORK in Derby (where Ram-raiding has an entirely different meaning) - I'm not FROM there!

The solenoid I bought was slim enough to slip inside the boot lid's framework and also had mounting holes in it already, so I just bolted straight through the framework into the solenoid itself. Are you aiming to have this done before Hethel? If so I should be able to take/post a couple of pics later. Otherwise you're welcome to have a look at the installation while we're there.

I may start it today, still got to get the switch yet but at least i could get the motor & wiring installed. I don`t thin this solenoid will fit inside the frame so i`ll bodge it some how