Installing Haltech E6GMX

[Guest]

I thought about doing the same, but actualy just decided to have them both right next to each other.

I don't see why it would be a problem. Only thing I could think of would be EMI, but most cars run the wiring harness all over the place anyway. I think it should be fine!

[Houdini]

Only thing I could think of would be EMI, but most cars run the wiring harness all over the place anyway. I think it should be fine!

That's what they said as well. Just ordered the harness adapter and it was $50 and not $125-150 as the original quote stated. Things are looking up!

[Ashaman]

Oh yeah! For that price it isn't even worth heating up the soldering iron, great deal! Is that for a longer cable?

[Houdini]

Oh yeah! For that price it isn't even worth heating up the soldering iron, great deal! Is that for a longer cable?

No, that was for a short 300mm cable (12 inches). I'll just mount the Haltech close to the stock ECU somewhere.

[mark]

let me know how the install goes without removing the stock ECU. I just got back the rebuilt head from the machine shop and with any luck will have the engine back together in a couple weeks. The plan is to put the stock injectors back in and finally get it to pass smog. Once I'm road legal again, then will install the Haltech, aiming to get it ready for the west coast lotus meet.

[Ashaman]

Did you receive those maps I sent again? Never heard anything; but then they didn't bounce back either? If not let me know & I'll resend.

[Houdini]

Did you receive those maps I sent again? Never heard anything; but then they didn't bounce back either? If not let me know & I'll resend.

I got them, thanks! Still don't have the stolen computer back though. Good thing I had good back-ups.

I should get the adapter harness today. I took the old ECU out (very easy) and will mull over the best way to mount the Haltech and keep the stock ECU in the stock location. I thought about piggy backing them with an air gap between. We'll see if that will work. How did you do it Ashaman?

I will post pictures of the harness and the install when I get the harness.

Mark,

Wish I could make it to the West Coast Lotus meet. Hopefully next year. I was talking to a guy at work that has an AEM computer in his car and it passed smog with flying colors without reverting everything back to stock. The trick he told me was to wire the check engine light to the oil pressure light. They always check that to make sure the computer is working. If they don't see it, a red flag is raised. His car is a Honda with larger injectors, turbo, etc. and it was no problem. I'll have to try that and see what happens. I don't feel like switching back and forth even if it is every 2 years.

[Houdini]

I'll post pictures next week but that harness I bought is perfect. Well worth the price of not having to look for old connectors etc. I've played around with mounting and I think I'll just remove the old ECU. It just looks too difficult to find a nice clean place to mount the Haltech except where the stock one is. It's so easy to change out the units anyway that this will work out better. Won't finish until next week as I'll be out of town but when I do the car will be dyno ready!

[mark]

Houdini and Ashaman, how have the Haltech installs and tunings gone on your cars? My car is finally back on the road two week ago after 8 months of repairs and is even legally smogged. i have a new haltech sitting in the garage waiting to be installed. what is the best way to tackle this upgrade?

[Ashaman]

Mine is great, I love it. Car runs fantastic, and (I know everyone says this) seems really fast.

FWIW, I have run mine now for a couple years. I spent the first few months playing with it/experimenting until I was sure it would be 100% reliable. After I was convinced I put it in for good, installed the 550cc injectors & never looked back.

I have an AVC-R set to limit boost at 20 psi and am very happy I did it. I don't know of any good tuners in the area so I just tuned it on the road. For higher speeds it would be good to find a Mustang dyno (as suggested by Dave in the past). It is difficult to "road tune" at high speeds!

[Houdini]

Dave,

I'm still working on getting mine 100% but it works great once you figure a few things out. I'm assuming you have the E6GMX version which is the latest. What you need to do first is have a harness made which will take into account the differences between the stock harness and haltech. PM me and I can send you the schmatic and information on who will make it for you. Mine is first class they did a great job. Second you need good maps to start with. I can give you maps as well as screen shots of the setup you need to do. I don't know what turbo and injector sizes you're using but I can get you up and running and then it's just a matter of tuning for your application. I was/ till am somewhat ECU chalenged and I aught on very quickly as to tuning the car. The one thing that has made a big difference in my tuning was getting the stock timing map and putting it into my timing map. The fuel map will be where you will need to experiment first and after that is nailed you can tweak the timing if you want.

,Russ

[Ashaman]

Oh yeah, I also wanted to say I would recommend the tried formula of Haltech, 3 Bar map, 550cc injectors, and adapter harness to go along with the install.

It really keeps everything simpler down the road, otherwise you end up starting over every time you make a change (such as larger injectors). I didn't at first, but if I were doing it again, I would.

[mark]

Ashaman, I stumbled across the haltech thread on Isuzone and alot of good info there. so I wasn't clear on the the wideband hook up tho. I have a PLX installed, but it is just a digital readout, not hooked into the ECU. were you able to hook the wideband into the haltech, and bypass the input from the stock O2 sensor?

I'm going to hook up the secondary throttle controls to one of the PWM outputs instead of one of the digital outputs. I don't know if it makes any difference, but the according to the manual, the PWM aux will work a solenoid while there is no mention of a digital working a solenoid.

any chance on getting your maps?

[mark]

there is no pin into the Haltech for the CEL, pin A5 on the stock ECU. so the CEL is disabled once the haltech is hooked up?

[ailwyn]

I believe you need to piggy back off the oil warning light to fool a visual inspection, but it would imply to me that the light is redundant.

No idea how you would know there is a fault (unless the car won't start).

A.

[Ashaman]

Ah yes, the Oxygen sensor mystery.

Maybe your documentation is more clear, I don't know - mine was really sketchy, and I still don't know that I fully understand it!

But from what I think is correct...

You cannot use the wideband to control open/closed loop. Not directly at least.

So you can install the wideband in addition to the stock unit (the stock location is too close anyway), and then use the wideband output into an aux in on the Haltech for tuning/datalogging purposes.

You can then use the stock narrowband for control of open/closed loop (though for some reason, this never worked for me).

Alternatively, you could remove & plug the stock sensor and use the narrow output from the PLX into the Haltech for open/closed loop control.

I haven't tried this method (though now I am curious so I might), but it should work fine.

Regarding the CEL, these typically aren't used on standalone ECUs. Since they are universal in application, there are no parameters defined for what would constitute an "error" for tripping a CEL.

You do however have access to real-time displays & data logging instead. This is actually more informative; though not really as user-friendly

ailwyn's idea is a good one though if emissions are going to be an issue for you.

[mark]

the manual has about two sentences on wideband sensors. basically it says that while you can hook up a wideband as a control input, you would be stupid to do it since they are expensive and don't last very long before going bad. It recommends using the wideband just for datalogging and tuning.

you can download the new manual from haltech's website as a pdf file. it might have better explanations for the features in your unit.

[Ashaman]

Actually, I think that is about the exact same thing mine says

But it isn't stupid to do so as the PLX M series use the Bosch wideband, which is like $50 to replace. In other words, probably cheaper than or close enough to the stock unit in price.

I think they were referring to the old NTK sensors which were an insane amount of money for no apparent reason.

[mark]

so I finally got the Haltech installed and am driving it around on the streets - I tend to move in very slow motion on the car these days - too little time. Thanks for the maps Josh as they were really helpful to get going with. Now for the fun part of tuning the performance. So is there a good website or something to read about the relationship between fueling and timing? when to adjust fuel and when to adjust timing? I'm keeping boost capped at 10 psi until I figure this out. The car is running pretty rich most of the time, and it seems like this could be adjusted either by cutting back fuel or advancing the timing for more complete burn. are there some guidelines, or just trial and error?

[desmondsee]

Hi Houdini,

I am looking to fit a Haltech too.
I have already got the 550cc injectors, Adj FPR, etc..and sourcing for turbo and downpipe now.

May i get the adaptor harness off you please? Would really be very grateful.

sent you a pm. thanks.