Siezed Wheels

[Andy_J]

I have just spent an hour removing my front passenger side wheel as it was so baddly siezed to the hub.

I have cleaned off all the corrosion that made the wheel so difficult to remove, but I don't want to have the same problem next time I need to reove the wheels.

Has anyone got a tip or trick to prevent the corrosion occuring in the first place?

Thanks

Andy

[GeoffSmith]

Copaslip or similar.

[WillB]

What Geoff said, do the hub/wheel face around the center hole and also do the wheel bolt threads at the same time.

It's a pretty common problem

[Enright]

Agreed as far as the wheel to hub is concerned, but a while back ESM posted something about not putting lubricant on certain threads, otherwise the increased slippage can lead to you overtorqueing bolts and stripping or even snapping them.
It scared me a bit because it made so much sense, so I stopped using so much copperslip (and so much force)!
Only problem is I have no idea how far back this was.

It went something along the lines of:
Torque figures rely upon a certain amount of resistance which is dictated by the friction generated between the bolt threads and the hole/nut threads. If you reduce this friction by introducing a lubricant, you can end up putting too much force into the threads or the bolt itself.

All I'm saying is it's something to be aware of.

But I'm sure someone called Dave will be along in a minute to take the pee about how one of my wheels came loose on the Jurby trackday on the IoM.
I'm convinced that it was due to the flex and heat cycles going through the NSF wheel rather than the monkey who put the wheel on (me).

Edit: Found it! From here onwards:
http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewt ... c&start=10

[rip]

But I'm sure someone called Dave will be along in a minute to take the pee about how one of my wheels came loose on the Jurby trackday on the IoM.

Probably. Question is, which one?

[Elanlover]

I used simple thread antisieze (the grey stuff that comes in a tube) on the inside of the hub on the wheel. Worked like a charm.

http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg/he ... 0000000IC3

[Rambo]

Lack of use Andy ? Probably due to its lay up after you know what ! Glad to know your back on the road again

I use copperslip on the hub and also on the wheel bolts - never had any problems about wheels coming loose and I don't use a torque wrench - only a good old fashioned wheelbrace and muscle.

BTW - next time your at a car show, have a poke about and you can get a big tin for about a fiver. Failing that, its Halfrauds (or your local Inverness motor factor) and they'll take many £££'s from you for a small tube

[Dico]

Halfrauds do an 'own brand' copperslip in a big white tub for a fiver.
Should last you many years.

[dapinky]

Halfrauds do an 'own brand' copperslip in a big white tub for a fiver.
Should last you many years.

Don't know about the Halfrauds version, but a tin of Comma Coppaslip has lasted me since 1982 - and I ain't no Gary!

[GeoffSmith]

Andy's problem was due to corrosion at the alloy/steel interface which is where I put a smear of copaslip - not too much though and clean off any excess, as it is liable to ooze out and be thrown onto the brakes by centrifugal force.

The threads of the bolts should be cleaned but not lubricated, however I put a very thin smear on the chamfer as this is another alloy/steel interface.

[Andy_J]

Cheers guys. Copperslip it is then. only seems to be the passenger front that siezed to the hub, guess i have been in too may puddles.

[rip]

Paint your calipers and be fussy about keeping them clean. You'll be taking your wheels off far too often for them to get seized that way

[Dave Eds]

But I'm sure someone called Dave will be along in a minute to take the pee about how one of my wheels came loose on the Jurby trackday on the IoM.

Mr T must be busy so Spuddy will have to do

[DaveT]

Three wheels on Neils wagon,
But hes still rolling along.
Them MX5s are after him
Escorts fly right on by
But hes singing a happy song

Hes a singin a wibbely wobbely wheel whoa
Elaners they never say die
Just down the straight theres a hidden chicane
And we can watch those Escorts
Go flying on by.

[WillB]

Interesting thinking about not doing the wheel bolts.

I've had plenty come loose but never ones that had been coppaslipped!

[GeoffSmith]

I've had plenty come loose but never ones that had been coppaslipped!

I think that sort of makes sense Will. The problem with lubricating a thread is that it can be overtorqued (with possible damage to the threads) because you loose the friction between the threads. If the threads are not cleaned and lubricated, then they can be undertorqued and may work loose.

[RayD]

I managed to get doubly slated on the other post for saying it wasn’t important to start with dry threads, but… as its been brought up again…

I’ve been on first names terms with millions of nuts and bolts. For people who have already been using Coppaslip don’t feel you need to go stripping the car down to clean and dry all the threads, I imagine the internal ones would be a right job.

By the time a bolt is tightened there’ll be no more oil on the contact part of a thread than there is on your hands on an ordinary day.

The nuts seem to come off easier because it’s using a different part of the thread – a part that still has some Copperslip on it.

I don’t think anyone suggested it was, but putting Copperslip on the vertical face of the wheel or the hub is not a good idea. This could lead to the wheels coming loose. It just wants limiting to a small amount on the spigot.

Ray

[RayD]

[RayD]

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[RayD]

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