Lotus Elan Central

by **Doug** » Wed 21.09.2005, 01:07

Velisarios wrote:Dave that turbine wrap looks good because its brand new, after a few hours of running the engine its getting black and dirty and and its real hell to clean it up, I know outta my own experience. You are very detailed in your engine so I would suggest you build a masterpiece shield of your own.

Costas

yeah, Dave, order up the mallet and bean bag and english wheel and get yourself a bending and hammering on that masterpiece . . .

by **Ashaman** » Wed 21.09.2005, 03:54

Thanks Brian, I really like it. It is pretty easy to install, the only hard part is using the stainless tie wire and getting it threaded around where it needs to be. If you have access to the underside during this process it sure helps! Durability seems good, the only problem I have seen is exhaust leaks will tear it up. It does fine on the outside of the turbo/manifold, but when a thin jet of exhaust (blown gasket) hits it direct it doesn't last.

I actually have the whole things wrapped down to the crossmember (with their standard wrap). I have noticed that since it is down in the weather it is starting to break down. It is different stuff than the turbo kit, and you are supposed to keep it coated (which I did not). I think it is usually $60-$70. Seems to me that the hood temps are much lower, but I never took any readings to make that scientific-like. As far as performance, who knows...I just like to think it does since I hate to do anything just for the bling-factor :lol:

Dave -

I think my spacer is 3/4" as well, but is has been a while since I looked at it. Good to know the T3 will fit in there, especially if it is an easier fit than my current pain! The problem with the inlet is that you really can't make it the full size of the T3 as you have that bolt in the lower right to deal with (or at least I do, maybe yours won't). Basically all of mine is full size but I had to cheat in that corner. Since smooth transitions are good, that has always bothered me...probably doesn't matter..but I don't know. Same goes for the size, after gutting it all out, I wondered if maybe it was better to keep it smaller for higher velocity? I have no thoughts on it unfortunately, as I really don't know....I hoped maybe your guys did

Dave that turbine wrap looks good because its brand new, after a few hours of running the engine its getting black and dirty and and its real hell to clean it up

Dunno what kind of an environment you run in over there, but why on earth would that be? I never have anything other than a light coating of dust on my engine? It holds up well, the only problem I have had is I got an exhaust leak. The super hot air shooting out of a very small area cooked it a little "well done"! Anyway, seems durable enough to me, I have had it on there two years. Suit yourself, but I have yet to hear any rumors of performance gains via a heat shield...

by **F1 LOTUS** » Fri 23.09.2005, 21:23

Hey Dave...how much does the stock hood (bonnet

) weigh? I'm assuming yours is off?

by **Dave M** » Fri 30.09.2005, 20:58

Sorry all...been in a work black hole lately.

Did find some time to hack away on some piping for the intake and new O2 housing/downpipe last night. NOTE: when building an exhaust downpipe from stainless T304, buy the "cheap" mild steel U-bends first, hack them up to get the correct angles/twists, THEN cut the not-so-cheap stainless U-bends. :roll:

After the metal work for the last intake and the work going into this one, I think I'll pass on the english wheel, Doug!

Brian_MDB wrote:Hey Dave...how much does the stock hood (bonnet ) weigh? I'm assuming yours is off?

Yes, it makes working in the engine bay MUCH easier! It doesn't weigh much...it's gotta be < 10 lbs. It's been a while since I hefted it. Not much to be gained by carbon fiber. :wink:

by **F1 LOTUS** » Fri 30.09.2005, 22:26

Bet it's closer to double your estimate :wink:

...

A good carbon one should be around 5lbs...

Of course it's only worth doing if you want to do a lot of ducting work and there are enough people to justify get a mold pulled from a stock hood

by **Dave M** » Sun 02.10.2005, 01:51

Brian_MDB wrote:Of course it's only worth doing if you want to do a lot of ducting work and there are enough people to justify get a mold pulled from a stock hood

Hmmm...

by **F1 LOTUS** » Thu 06.10.2005, 22:42

I would guess something like this would help with extracting the hot air from under the hood?

by **Dave M** » Fri 07.10.2005, 13:51

Exactly.

I'm hoping the lowest pressure point on the hood will be somewhere right over or toward the windscreen side of the turbo. I would have a small inlet in the bumper, flowing air under the center piece of the "clamshell" (where the SRS sensor is and the hood prop sits when open), over the turbo, maybe even over the head, then out.

There may be enough flow from the radiator inlet with the same vent, so I'll try that first. Now I just need to find that free windtunnel time somewhere near me... :wink:

Wonder if Lotus Engineering in Ann Arbor, MI could hook me up?

by **F1 LOTUS** » Fri 07.10.2005, 19:48

I think there's already a good flow of air through above the bumper judging from the temp readings I took off the Turbo intake hose...as soon as the car is rolling the under hood temperature around the pipe area would drop to near ambient? When you look at the front of the car there are a couple of 'notches' the same width as the lower light assembly which may possibly be the source of the in-coming air?
As for the windtunnel testing...you're going to end up sticking wool tufts over the car and video the flow pattern or you'll be painting flow-vis over the car then thrashing it up the road before it dries! :lol:

Either way you'll be having fun

by **Doug** » Fri 07.10.2005, 20:08

the US bumper doesn't have those airflow notches in it . . .

by **F1 LOTUS** » Fri 07.10.2005, 23:31

Actually the US ones have a gap in the center of the bumper / clamshell whereas the Euro ones are a close fit

by **Dave M** » Mon 10.10.2005, 05:37

Brian_MDB wrote:Actually the US ones have a gap in the center of the bumper / clamshell whereas the Euro ones are a close fit

Yes...it can be aligned (im)properly to provide quite a gap! That's been the only issue with removing the thing, is getting all gaps even when putting it back on.

by **picture elf** » Mon 10.10.2005, 13:43

Here's a few pics after all the pipe work over the last week. Things go to the welder today!

by **picture elf** » Mon 10.10.2005, 13:47

Now for the exhaust side...

by **Monty** » Mon 10.10.2005, 15:33

Mr Elf,

What u going to use as a filter :?:

by **Dave M** » Mon 10.10.2005, 17:32

Monty wrote:Mr Elf,

What u going to use as a filter

Isn't he such a good little helper?

I am going to be using an open paper filter (looks just like the standard K&N I had before) but I'm not sure where it will be located. I would likely just make a short intake pipe similar to the Top End unit Doug and some others have, but I need to figure out how to route the BOV charge back into the intake without it looking to "busy". Guess I'd better get figuring as the pipes are due to be welded up soon!

by **Doug** » Mon 10.10.2005, 18:07

NICE

I expect you are going to jet-hot the exhaust pipe then ? ?

by **Dave M** » Mon 10.10.2005, 19:38

Doug wrote:I expect you are going to jet-hot the exhaust pipe then ? ?

You betcha. The intake piping will be in the "sterling" finish that I had before while the exhaust side will be the same 2000 degree grey stuff the manifold is done in. Hopefully that will help keep most heat in the pipe - but I'll shield it by the PS pump and radiator hose anyway.

by **Doug** » Mon 10.10.2005, 19:52

how about jet-hotting the turbo itself? or at least the exhaust side -- what does that do for efficiency, etc ??

by **Houdini** » Tue 11.10.2005, 04:07

how about jet-hotting the turbo itself?

It's not done on race cars.

What is done however is extrudehoning the turbine housing. Not really something you need to do on a street car but gives you better flow on a race car.

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