LOKI my long term project.... (help often needed)

[MattDon]

My questions

1. which to use or no dynaliner dynapad
2. how does one remove and then replace carpet
3. how far away from a woofer can i place my crossover?
4. how do i drain the fuel tank?

to be continued.....

[Specky]

Best of luck with your project...

if there's any way I can offer advice, just shout...

I think I know what you mean about the sound proofing...

IMHO... Most of the road/wind noise comes thru the roof or windows, so it wouldn't make much difference...


TTFN

[MattDon]

thanks for the offer, just keep an eye on this thread as i'll be constantly looking for answers. I already have dynamat extreme 36 square feet of the stuff, but i was wondering if its worth installing dynaliner or dynapad while i was at it, i apriciate what you saying about the sound, but im fitting a hardtop which should help reduce the noise through there and having decent seals will help with regards to the windows, i know i'll never turn this into a merc, but i am trying to get it as comfortable as possible.

update, i just removed the offside door from the brg, it looked simple so i dove in, only to realy shruggle to get it off (after removing the 4 bolts facing toward the back and the smaller one facing up) and i couldnt find where to disconnect the wiring so cut thought it. i removed the door card so i can see how/where to fit the new speakers and im no closer to a solution, i do have a couple ideas but id realy like to redesign the door cards. Im beginning to think going to a professional audio installer is the best option.

[MattDon]

so the latest news, it turns out i missed my mot some time back (did i mention ive never owned a car before) anywho now im totaly freaking out, there a couple points worrying me, 1 the engine isnt running right high idle (around 2k) its a little slow to start up and it pops a fair amount with the occasional back fire, 2 the blowers wont clear the screen as i cant choose where the air comes from (i think its stuck on the footwell but im not 100% on that) plus the heat adjust still isnt hooked back up and there seems little point until i can sort out the blowers, im also fitting new bulbs all around, just incase the 100w h4 are noticed and when indicating left the stalk keeps centralising (although i know what causing that and have temporarily fixed it)

im taking Loki to chris foulds as he seemed like to decent bloke when i talked to him about the cars history. Ive asked him to fit new plugs, leads and coils and to check the timing but seems to think it could be the throttle position sensor, which realy did freak me out when i saw the price of them. im proberly going to take the on of the brg just incase. ive got until monday to get things as good as i can as ive spent all my birthday money and am back to being broke.

ive also noticed i bit of a thud that come from the rear, im not sure if its related to bumps or turns or whatever but ive noticed it so im guessing something is not quite right there.

oh and one last thing, im trying to start work on the brg again and realy need to know how to drain the fuel tank as i dont what to blow myself up.

[mnemonix]

ive also noticed i bit of a thud that come from the rear, im not sure if its related to bumps or turns or whatever but ive noticed it so im guessing something is not quite right there.

Check that your battery is fastened down, there's a metal bracket that clamps the base on the front side of the battery, if it's missing or not properly fitted, your battery will thump as you go over bumps - I know this from experience.

Chris

[RayD]

Matt,

With regard to the high revs and the heater selection not working...you almost certainly have a vacuum pipe off...a simple fix.

I'll have a look for a picture.

Ray

Edit...a picture added.

[MattDon]

now that interesting!!! on my brg it looks like that and that pipe goes toward the dash on the steel blue it goes back into the engine abit lower, looks like someones srewed up somewhere. ive only got a lighter for light so im not 100% but will see what i can do and report back promptly.

your spot on mate, that hose is hanging loose, now my problem is the hose thats currently attatched (god knows what it does) runs down behind the engine and im rather nervous about removing it until i know what it does or doesnt do. what do i do next?

[RayD]

Dapinky identified where the other pipe goes...it doesn't matter which of the inlets the pipes are connected to...on a standard car one of the three connections is a blank.

Search my posts for "vacuum pipe" then look for dapinky's posts on the same thread.

Ray.

[MattDon]

ray mate you are my hero, ive spent 2 winters with no windscreen heater, ive spent days removing the dash and sorting out the heater controls (which i guess my have been damaged to hide this problem), i even broke part of my dash trying to sort this problem, i owe you big time, just let me know if you need anything. i just have to get the temp control rod thingy latch back on and ive got fully working hot and cold air!!!

think dapinky deserves some credit too.

[RayD]

Thank you Matt,

Let us know how you go on.

Ray

[dapinky]

Just got in from work and was going to send some picture links, but Ray beat me to it..........

......anyway, glad it's sorted now.

[Enright]

need to know how to drain the fuel tank as i dont what to blow myself up.

Have you downloaded the manuals from the link just below the banner at the top of the page?

I've never tried this myself, but you can probably syphon it using a hose straight down the filler neck.
However what I did was to remove the plastic tray from the hood stowage area, then the upper access panel, the hoses, and take the fuel pump/sender unit out the top of the tank. I then attached an extra piece of hose to the outlet, and used a small battery to run the pump, and pumped the lot into a large bucket.

[MattDon]

ah good thinking, i guess there wouldnt be a bung you could just unscrew

[MattDon]

sailed through the mot first time, yehy!!! i fealt like the parent of a child going in for exams. picked up some new A post seals to go with the hardtop as the mot didnt cost as much as id feared. time for an oil change (think its abit early but the tappets are getting noisey again).

i have to say i think chris (of chris foulds motors) is a top bloke. I also spotted a certain steel blue elan with wilwwod calipers and lec wheel centres, i wish id has a camera.

[MattDon]

fitted a richbrook handbrake lever today, looks ok but its too wide the leather wont fit over it and it looks out of place, my next idea is to buy a tvr lever, made for the wedge cars to bring them upto date, looks very tidy and much slimmer.

i decided the tweeters will be mounted on the dash facing up, should be too difficult to do. im still to decide on the mids ive got four options:

1. just below the door lock pin
2. slightly above the woofer between the door pocket and the escutcheon
3. forward and slightly above the escutcheon
4. right at the back of the door below the door lock pins where the door pocket ends.

can somone advise on the best place for sound as it might help me choose.

[MattDon]

so the elise steering wheel has arrived and holding it upto my brg (which has the steering wheel removed) im a little confused, ive looked at 2 threads discussing the fitment but im still not 100% my biggest puzzle is over the collapsable hub, the standard fair has four holes to attatch to the column, fair enough, the elise does too but the confussion comes when i compare the way the wheels are attatched to the hub, the elans has 6 bolts but the elise doesnt seem to have any, so im assuming the bolts that hold the hub onto the column also hold the wheel to the hub which is hidden inside the steering wheel!??? Id search for more posts but for some reason i just keep getting no results found on the advanced search.

hardtop update, aparently around another week of work in the roof, im hoping to put some sound insulation in before its put together, ive got some second skin spectrum sludge which look like its idea for the 5mm of clearance we have.

(personal news) I just got back from a two day break in the lake district which my lovely girlfriend organised for my 30th, was lovely the only down side being the weather, we tried to go out and explore the surrounding area but were forced back when the water literaly began to run into the car, theres a slight gap between the (newly fitted and brand new) A post seals and the windows im assuming thats down to the free play in the windows? either way after getting soaked through on the 3.5 hour drive back (and samping my feet in the footwell like a kid in a puddle) im counting the seconds until i get the hardtop, Im not sure if it will cure this specific issue but im hoping it will, or i'll have to open up the doors to adjust the windows, which im assuming is difficult or expensive depending on who does it.

[tweetdriver63]

i decided the tweeters will be mounted on the dash facing up, should be too difficult to do. im still to decide on the mids ive got four options:

1. just below the door lock pin
2. slightly above the woofer between the door pocket and the escutcheon
3. forward and slightly above the escutcheon
4. right at the back of the door below the door lock pins where the door pocket ends.

can somone advise on the best place for sound as it might help me choose.

I think options 1 and 4, as the sound would make for an odd soundstaging. The higher the sound frequencies, the more you can hear where they're comoing from. That's why subs can be located almost anywhere, but if you have the tweeters up on the dash, and the mids all the way toward the rear of the doors, your ear will be able to discern that. I think it would be detrimental to the sound quality. Option 4 would also cause the sound to be blocked significantly by the seat or the body in the seat. I would go with option 2 or 3 for the best sound.

[MattDon]

cheers mate just what i needed to know, im realy looking forward to getting this lot fitted. still need to get my head around fitting the elise steering wheel oh and i almost forgot my interior lights wont turn off, im sure i'll find the switch linked to the door as at fault and i'll find it tomorrow, but if anyone whats to point me in the right direction it would help.

[martin_bailey_1]

Hi there,

If your interior lights are 'stuck on' ... before inspecting the door wiring it might be worth checking that your headlight switch is pushed in all the way (towards the dashboard) as this switch is dual purpose, also controlling the interior lights when 'pulled out' !

Cheers,

Martin.

[MattDon]

well you learn something new every day, guess that would explain why theyre suddenly doing it after the MOT, cheers mate very helpful.