S2 #378 (Steve) - hopefully only light fixes

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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby TorqueHorse » Tue 04.05.2021, 14:00

Oh no, it's contagious! That stinks. :( At least you were able to get it out. :lol:

Painted calipers and polished piston look great! I can't believe you are ruining that beautiful workbench with actual car part work though ;)

Did you upgrade to stainless brake lines, or did you already have them? Looking good!
'90 FED M100 -mid resto
Chassis Exterior FrSus RrSus Engine Trans Wheels Steering Brakes Cooling Fuel Ventilation Exhaust Interior
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Tue 04.05.2021, 15:11

All done and test drive complete. I had a little bit of fun sourcing new flexible hose retaining clips after one of them went pinging across the garage never to be seen again.

Before I started the previous owner had already done a very good job of painting them black whilst still on the car, so apart from the shiny new hoses that you can’t see anyway everything looks exactly as it was. However, the difference in stopping is immense, it’s gone from a solid pedal with on/off capabilities to a graduated system that feels just like a proper car. Pads and rotors were a bit frivolous since there was plenty of life in them but you can’t spend too much on safety right?

TorqueHorse wrote:I can't believe you are ruining that beautiful workbench with actual car part work though ;)

Did you upgrade to stainless brake lines, or did you already have them? Looking good!


Thanks Matt - no the hoses are new, I wanted to know I could rely on the system and they weren’t so badly priced. As for the bench, man the fluid has upset my varnish and the hammering has left some dents in the merbau hardwood top…
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Nothing much to see really, but plenty to feel through the pedal.
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I didn’t end up doing any touch up on the chips, but they look ok
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Thankfully they’re not yellow.
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby dapinky » Tue 04.05.2021, 15:42

Charlie,

Just a thought on your flexi hoses, some people have reported that when fitted, they can rub on the tyre at full lock under suspension movement (heavy cornering!) - I see you have the 'protective springs' over the actual pipe, and it is pretty impossible to check for fowling with the car in the air, but I would suggest checking it after a bit of use to see if there are any signs of the tyre rubbing against the spring/hose.

I fed mine back a bit more through the rubber grommet and secured it with a cable tie when I did mine.

(not meaning to worry you - it isn't always a problem, but better to know that it's worth a check in a while!)
Dave

Just the one now, but this one's mine! - and it will be finished eventually.....

go on - click this link - you know you want to!
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Tue 04.05.2021, 16:16

Hi Dave - thanks very much for the tip. Yes I reused the spring just because I was a bit paranoid about it rubbing but I was looking at the suspension not the tyre so this is a great help thank you.

Thanks for all your help on the master cylinder - I’ve got the smaller bore one on order from the UK now.

I’m George by the way, must sort my footer. I don’t mean to be mysterious!
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby dapinky » Tue 04.05.2021, 18:03

378S2 wrote:I’m George by the way, must sort my footer. I don’t mean to be mysterious!


Oops my bad - where did I get the idea that you were Charlie? (I know from the PMs that you're George) - maybe I'm going senile or just plain mad???
Dave

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go on - click this link - you know you want to!
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby 378S2 » Mon 17.05.2021, 13:01

Big thanks to Dave Pink for the support in sourcing this, today my new 20.6mm ID BMC arrived to help with the final OEM improvement I plan to make. I don’t think the brakes are bad enough to spend the serious coin on a big brake kit so my hope is that this will be a low cost way to get them good enough to lock up if needed. I couldn’t face fitting it tonight but I had a poke about to see how much fun it will be to fit.

The electrical connector is easy to reach so I will leave the level warning sensor in place, and I can see all 6 bolts I need to undo but how the hell do you reach the one on the right?
Attachments
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Are a set of these in my future?
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The brake lines look like a PITA but semi accessible. Hopefully the line spanners will get on there.
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But this little piggy is going to go wee weee wee all the way home. What’s the best attack? Offset socket or do I need to remove the wiper mechanism?
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This little piggy will go to market - it’s easy to reach with a couple of extension bars. I can tell I’m going to drop the nut and / or socket a few times. I’ll order a handful of 13mm sockets in advance!
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Pretty easy to disconnect the sensor, so I’ll just do that.
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It wasn’t easy to find and thanks to Dave Pink for the support.
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Re: “Trust me, this is way better than a Mazda 3”, #378 (Ste

Postby dapinky » Mon 17.05.2021, 14:00

George,

There are 2 ways to get to the awkward bolt - well, 3 actually.

open-ended spanner
Crowfoot spanner
1/4" drive socket

I used a standard spanner to 'break the seal' then (once the hydraulic connector is removed), I could get a socket on the bolt, and using a variety of extensions (some 'straight' some 'wobble', the bar ended up where I could get the ratchet handle on it and then it's easy.

It is easiest to remove the other bolt first, then as you undo the awkward one, you can pull the BMC forward as you go to keep the clearance so the socket/nut doesn't fowl on the casting.
Dave

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go on - click this link - you know you want to!
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Re: S2 #378 (Steve) - hopefully only light fixes

Postby 378S2 » Fri 04.06.2021, 00:25

Steve and I have been busy with our own scope creep.

It all started when I spotted that the vacuum take off for the cabin heater was cracked. An easy fix, the hose was fine just the funny 90 degree attachment point that needed to be replaced so I spliced some new 4mm silicone hose in to the existing line. Easy. Trivial.

Then I noticed the line to the boost gauge was looking a little tired. I didn’t have any 3mm but it wasn’t expensive. Again, easy.

Then I decided the EECS line was in trouble, but I couldn’t get to the one way valve to join it there (it’s in the fuel line bundle under the coolant expansion tank so I added it to the list of jobs to do when I do the Samco hoses.

And then, with the WSM in one hand I gave a light tug on the secondary throttle line to check it was ok… and discovered it wasn’t connected to its reservoir. Again, an easy fix I thought so nice to know. But I was curious as to why I haven’t had any associated issues like rough idle or poor low speed running? Maybe this is the source of my soot on the rear bumper rather than too many short trips? (It’s not the turbo, I believe, having consulted Dave).

Well bugger me, getting that hose back on is now a week in. It’s on, hooray, but my Samco job has been brought forward. There’s no way to reach the secondary throttle reservoir with the cabin heater hoses in place. So they came out, and because I had to cut them to get them off their fixings I just kept going.

That has solved two of my great mysteries:

1. My oil pressure warning light does not work because the sender is the wrong unit. It’s a single action one and does not have the warning light pressure switch.

2. The play in my gear shift is caused by worn bushings in the cross gate. (https://youtube.com/shorts/UA3qQx9Xc5M?feature=share)

I’ll never get a clearer run at the gearbox oil, so I’ll do that too, and I will also degrease and clean the gearbox housing which looks a little shabby.

I’m a little impatient to find out what gain I will get from a working secondary throttle. I’m now waiting for parts for my oil sender and gear shift. Part of me doesn’t want to wait, throw it back together tonight and go for a spin tomorrow and the other part can’t be bothered to do all the disassembly again in a couple of weeks’ time.

Steve is no longer a second car, and now is officially recognised as a hobby.
Attachments
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I’ve wanted to change this since I read a few head gasket failure stories.
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My heater valve’s best days are behind it
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I’m so going to colour code that cam over to the car… but not today.
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I’ve never looked at those screws before and thought to myself, “you are letting the team down.”
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The old and the new. I’m missing the turbo connections which will hopefully be here before Christmas.
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I’m really pleased with how well the top of the oil separator and the plug cover look with black VHT and gloss clear VHT. Now the cam cover looks sad… this is how it ends. If I do the cam cover then I’ll be getting grumpy with the block before I know it.
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That’s all the old hoses stripped out, some are a real pain to get off, they needed removing - the big ones had really swollen up around their ends and the heater valve was ready to disintegrate.
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I had originally planned to only temporarily remove the heater hoses, and I maintain an irrational fear of jacking the front end up, so I have patented this highly effective method of draining the coolant in such a way that you can a) reuse it, b) not make a mess with it, and c) leave the car on the wheels. Just poke your spare windscreen washer line down all the way until it reaches the bottom hose. Simples!
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Some left over caliper paint cooking gently on one of the easier to remove fixed lines. The others aren’t so bad so a light treatment with the rust killer stuff is all I’ll do (unless there is a definitive way?).
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Big thank you to Rosie’s Matt - the professional hand model - who solved my HTF do I reconnect that then problem.
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Re: S2 #378 (Steve) - hopefully only light fixes

Postby 378S2 » Tue 08.06.2021, 14:39

I’ve run in to a small snag with the gearbox oil change, pretty minor in the scale of things but I’d love an opinion or two if anyone else has encountered the same problem.

The bolt which retains the speedo gear has sheered at some point in the past with around 6mm left proud. The person who put it back put an M6 nut on, and I’d say with the plate on there 1/2 to 3/4 of the nut was contacting the thread. Not enough to tighten it down much, it was very loose and it wouldn’t take a lot to strip the threads. I don’t fancy my chances of success with the mole grips with it installed (and I am not pulling the gearbox out for this!).

My plan is to drill and tap the inside of an M10 stud to be M6, then open out the hole on the retaining plate. Has anyone had a similar problem and if so how did you fix it?
Attachments
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Hard to get a good photo, it would be a nightmare to extract the broken remains so I won’t attempt that until I have the gearbox out for some other reason.
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Re: S2 #378 (Steve) - hopefully only light fixes

Postby muley » Wed 09.06.2021, 06:38

Sheered off set screw.

Yes, I had an Elan where the set screw was sheered off. It's extremely hard to get to. I did try gripping it with mole grips ~ I even filed flats on it. But no luck

In the end I created a sort of 'holdfast' out of an old bracket bent to a suitable shape and used that to force the speedo drive flange down on to the gearbox.

Bit easier than removing the gearbox and using heat to really get the old one out !
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Re: S2 #378 (Steve) - hopefully only light fixes

Postby 378S2 » Wed 09.06.2021, 09:49

Yes, I’m faced with the choice of doing it properly but potentially making it worse, cobbling together a better fix than the current one or just leaving it the hell alone and pretending I thought it was supposed to be like that!

I’d use a tube of silicone before I pull the gearbox out on this particular snag though.
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Re: S2 #378 (Steve) - hopefully only light fixes

Postby 378S2 » Sat 12.06.2021, 13:33

The transmission oil change was a lot easier than I’d thought it was going to be. Admittedly most of the threads I’ve read had a lot more clutter in the bay than I’ve got right now. Before I pulled the speedo drive out I throughly cleaned the area and blew all the grit away with the air line.

It’s a little time consuming to fill through the 6mm hose but no hardship.
Attachments
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I made the lanyard because it would have ruined my day if I’d dropped it in the gearbox.
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The shoulder sits on the flange easily enough.
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Dave suggested making a dip stick to keep things simple.
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The funnel sits there pretty easily.
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It’s down there somewhere
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