Small (or maybe not) project. 91 elan

[Tuga2112]

the other door was not as dificult as the first, however i had a small hickup.




Had look in SJ sportsCars but they dont seem to have this piece in the door/window related categories, (at least nothing with a pic)

from what i can see here this is the rear side of the upstop bobin, im assuming theres some other name that makes more sense,

does anyone know what is the name of this part and if by any chanse where to get it ? or alternatives that will do the job?

[dapinky]

There's good news and bad news.....

...good news is that they're available - part number A100B0436F ....

...the bad news is that they're £30.13 each

Bell & Colvill have them in stock

It may well be recoverable though - the hard bit is getting them out of the door glass when the thread is rusted and the bonding between the aluminium plate and the glass breaks down, leaving it to spin around - you're already past that stage!

It is only a flat plate with a threaded tube (all cast from one piece of aluminium) - the thread is a standard M5 thread, and the screw is an M5x20 countersunk item (but a non-countersunk one will do).

I'd try heating it up with a blowlamp (aluminium will expand quicker than the steel threaded bolt, and may break any rust seal) - then hold it in a vice and try to grip the broken stud with pliers to twist it out.

If that fails, carefull drilling may get it out.....

[Tuga2112]

thanks dave,

i am past the point of drilling, i did it hopping to get the bolt out with the vibration and spinning of the bit but i ended up drilling a little sideway so now the thread is partially damaged and the bolt still inside.

I am not sure if heating up is worth doing at the state the piece is but i suppose i got nothing to lose,

do you know of anyone that found a cheaper alternative ? i was looking into sleeve nuts but i cant seem to find a M4 thread size, all i can find are M6 used for Beds.

[dapinky]

Joao,

How about these- probably worth a go for a quid!

If you flatten out the spikes, and glue it in with sikaflex (or Araldite) it may well do - the standard bolt is M5x20, so as long as these ones aren't too thick to pass through the hole in the glass, they could well be the answer.

Don't be tempted to use a normal nut/bolt as there won't be enough clearance between the nut and the door shell to wind the windows up/down.

[Megwenda]

Those look good, provided the flange is bigger than the hole in the window, AND provided the sleave fits into the bobbin.

However I wouldn't use araldite or sikaflex, as these may cause problems later on if the correct part is found.
I just used some double-sided tape when I did mine.

Just make sure that you smear some vaseline over the threads to prevent them rusting again

mfG
Dave

[Tuga2112]

thanks guys for the tips,

i already had a look at the T nut before, but it doesnt seem to have a good space to be "glued" in. i had a look a several alternatives in the past hours, including sleeve nuts like this where i could potentially weld a washer on the back and then put the glue in the washer. or this type of also sleeve nut where with a bit of luck an allen key could be used to get a grip on the other side of the window.
so far the closest match i found was this type of nut however the web site doesnt say a price, and looking at the box size i suspect they only sell to commercial use. either way i asked for details just in case there is a possibility they sell smaller quantities t the public

im currently looking into the possibility of a left hand river nut, as the usuall river nut would work only if i had a left handed screw.... and letf face it, even if i had, next time i went back to the screw i would have forgotten it was a left handed one causing a bit of a problem....

[Megwenda]

Hi

I have just been checking my doors (which are still stripped). As we mentioned below, you cant put a bolt through with the nut on the outside, as there is not very much clearance. However, there is nothing to stop a bolt from going the other way, provided it is not too long that it is going to hit the upper-stop bracket (you have about 1cm free space looking at my car)

So, a solution may be to carefully drill the bolt out of the old thread (no matter if the threads get damaged), and widen the hole with a 5.5mm drill.

Then, fit a countersunk 5mm bolt into that piece, making sure it is just long enough to go through the bobbin and able to hold a nut... ideally it would have a hex slot in it, so you can hold it from back, else maybe araldite it into place.. note, it doesn't have to be really tight, just tight enough so that you can tighten a nut on the other side.

I would then put some double sided tape on to it to hold it against the window while you are working, and after FIRST placing the bobbin on the window (so that it aligns up the bobbin shaft where it goes through the window), press the bolt through the bobbin from the rear (that is the outside of the door) before putting a nut on and tightening... use some loctite to prevent the nut from coming loose

Good luck
Dave

[Tuga2112]

Hi

I have just been checking my doors (which are still stripped). As we mentioned below, you cant put a bolt through with the nut on the outside, as there is not very much clearance. However, there is nothing to stop a bolt from going the other way, provided it is not too long that it is going to hit the upper-stop bracket (you have about 1cm free space looking at my car)

So, a solution may be to carefully drill the bolt out of the old thread (no matter if the threads get damaged), and widen the hole with a 5.5mm drill.

Then, fit a countersunk 5mm bolt into that piece, making sure it is just long enough to go through the bobbin and able to hold a nut... ideally it would have a hex slot in it, so you can hold it from back, else maybe araldite it into place.. note, it doesn't have to be really tight, just tight enough so that you can tighten a nut on the other side.

I would then put some double sided tape on to it to hold it against the window while you are working, and after FIRST placing the bobbin on the window (so that it aligns up the bobbin shaft where it goes through the window), press the bolt through the bobbin from the rear (that is the outside of the door) before putting a nut on and tightening... use some loctite to prevent the nut from coming loose

Good luck
Dave

that is probably the quickest way to get the window fitted back, i have considered something on those lines but welding the bolt into the nut then grinding off the excess in the rear, but if you say it works without the need to weld then ill definatly try it.

I bough the T nuts Dave mentioned from ebay, when those arrive i will retrofit them instead of the quick fix for tomorow.

thanks for the tips guys,

[Tuga2112]

still on the topic of the nuts.

My dad came around to visit, i showed him the problem. he confirmed the rear of the piece still has the thread, so started drilling out the bits of the screw,
30 seconds later i passed him the dremel with the apropriate bit in the end, and 15 minutes later i had a working "nut" again, so i just fitted it back

at the present moment both weather stips are in, the door cards fitted back and the leather replacement panels also in.

theres a bit of smell of contact glue from the diy job, but im sure that will go away soon.

the yellow LED washer jets have arrived and are fitted, only missing the wiring to make use of the LEDs, im thinking tapping them into the indicator lights. i suspect this will be a straight forward job after taking out the wheel arch. let me know if you can foresee any issues with this, or maybe the fact that these will be switched on with the indicators ? i intend to use connectors to be able to plug them on and off if needed, but i dont think there would be any legal issue with having them connected this way ? after all the washers are at the same line as the original position of the indicators in the front.

the laser projector with lotus logo is also here, nice thing about it is the fact it comes witht he drill bit needed for the exact hole, i didnt see a reference to that in Artaban's original post (ghost light) , i am not 100% sure if im going to fit them or not, drilling throghu the door feels a bit wrong... what do you guys think of that?

EDIT
Pictures of both doors, one before the treatment and one after

[epipete]

Weeeell, where to begin, methinks that Im probably a little old for all this bling however I think if your so minded why not, I've got to say, of the two, my preference would be for the projectors (I'd laugh every time I open the doors) and drilling the door shouldn't be an issue, but try to find a place which will be dry in there and make sure it doesn't foul anything. As for the washers, way to much for me I'm afraid!

[cliff]

The doors look great, I did something similar on mine.

Definite no for the washer jets, it might share some parts but it is an Elan not a Nova/Corsa!

Have you seen this on the wiki, looks good and very effective.

http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Winds ... asher_jets

[Tuga2112]

The doors look great, I did something similar on mine.

CIMG0961.jpg

Definite no for the washer jets, it might share some parts but it is an Elan not a Nova/Corsa!

Have you seen this on the wiki, looks good and very effective.

http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Winds ... asher_jets

i like the ridges in the upper panel. looks rather classy.

as an update for the project.

ghost light on the passenger door is now there, I had to find the purple wire under the glove box and wire the live there. i was intending to put a switch on the door. but found out (luckily before grabbing the drill) that the place i wanted to drill has some metal plates on the inside.

the place is marked in RED in the second picture. if anyone knows what those metal plates are for please let me know. i didnt touch them because i suspect it is either lock, window runner or crash safety feature.

i cant seem to find any alternative places to put the switch but if anyone has suggestions let me know your ideas, at the present moment i think the switch could go in the glove box or in the door panel inside, both ideas dont appeal to me. the third option i though of would be the equivalent area tot he red area but in the chassis side. again doesnt sound good to me, a lot of wiring involved not to mention there is always the possibility i will find the same type of metal reinforcement there.

[Megwenda]

Tugga
What switch do you need to fit?
Cant you use the existing door open switch (the PW wire)?
So, power comes from the P wire, goes to the ghost light, and then on to the PW wire.

mfG
Dave

[Tuga2112]

Tugga
What switch do you need to fit?
Cant you use the existing door open switch (the PW wire)?
So, power comes from the P wire, goes to the ghost light, and then on to the PW wire.

mfG
Dave

Dave. I am already plugged to that switch. I want my own switch in series with the door so I can switch off the led during the day or when I know I'm about to park in a dodgy area. You get the idea.

[Megwenda]

OK, then why not put it on the wire going from purple wire.... i.e. under the dash? might be easier then in the door!

[Tuga2112]

Ideally I want to have the switch accessible as soon as I open the door. Reason why putting it in the door itself or door pillar are my preferable options. Under the dash is more accessible than in the glove box but not very clear as of the purpose of the switch still. Potentially I just won't put a switch at all. I have considered the door card. But that would require a connector and would make it trickier to pull the door card out so I decided against it

[Megwenda]

IMHO, as soon as you open the door, the interiir lights go on, exposing you in a dodgy car park.
I don't think the extra light from the ghost lights will make much difference

[Tuga2112]

The normal light is quite weak but you gota point there. However I still wwould prefer to have some control over the ghost lights. In fact the normal light s are another improvement in my wish list.

[Elanlover]

...................In fact the normal light s are another improvement in my wish list.

A relatively easy thing to modify.

viewtopic.php?f=79&t=14722

[Tuga2112]

...................In fact the normal light s are another improvement in my wish list.

A relatively easy thing to modify.

viewtopic.php?f=79&t=14722

after reading your topic throughout, and possibly forgetting half of it and skipping some of the long written parts.

I simply LOOOOVEEEEE that spoiler 3rd light, and the dashboard modification is also very appealing.

I had a look on ebay for those 2 parts (because i dont want to damage the originals and seems like DOUGLAS VALLEY BREAKERS has then both, costs at about 120 quid both together. As you guys know, im not an owner for a long time, and I'm still very unfamiliar with the costs of parts.

I have seen a post in the foruym about these breakers and i got a very negative vibe about them. but the post was outdated and their behavior may have changed, the bottom line is, do you think the prices are good or at least reasonable?

im not very keen on buying a part that i know im going to fiddle with for a high price, so your opinions are important.