Lotus Elan Central

This is not so much of a car project, more of a person project.

The aim (very long term goal) is to turn a short tempered, spanner throwing, easily demoralised, mechanical numpty into a (more or less) self sufficient car maintainer/repairer/restorer.

Said subject will be provided with an S2 M100 (in need of some TLC), a poorly stocked toolkit, and copies of the workshop manuals.

In case anyone hadn't cottoned on, I am the subject of the project, ongoing maintance of my Elan and a lack of expensive garage labour bills will be a happy by-product!

Expect lots of questions that to some will seem daft, but I can't be the only one who doesn't know so patience and understanding will be most welcome.

Let the training begin.......

Ailwyn

Mini Project

1. Overhaul rear brakes
2. Fit Brian's Wilwood front brakes
3. Upgrade to braided hoses
4. Tidy up the wheel arch area (wishbones, upper suspension arm etc)

Stage 1 - Rear Brake Overhaul

One of the rear discs is scored and chewed through a new set of pads in under 2 months, so the rear discs need to be changed, while I'm at it I'm going to fit refurbed calipers.

Had an absolute nightmare trying to loosen the caliper bolts, so ended up removing the whole hub/carrier from the suspension. In hindsight I might have had better luck using the 18mm socket rather than the 19mm one, but the rear brakes are finally removed and stripped down.

Most of the parts are covered in an accumulation of 10 years worth of crap, so the first job is to get everything cleaned up.

Question 1 - What is the best (least abrasive? but effective) method of cleaning up the wishbones and upper suspension arm?

Question 2 - Is hammerite (sp?) a suitable paint to use on these parts to protect them for years to come or should I seek out a more specialised product?

In the process of rempving the hub carrier(?) from the wishbone, I managed to mangle a couple of the nyloc nuts. I see from the parts manual that they are M14s (which I assume means an internal diameter of 14mm) but what more do I need to know? Are they high tensile? How do I tell if the nuts I am buying are high tensile? For example http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/contentite ... 17834.aspx

Question 3 - Are these the correct nuts for this application?

Thanks

Ailwyn

Ailwyn, good on you for having a go.
I'll just answer the one question for now as theres a little chap wanting my attention. (no not Monty!)
I think both PaulP and Monty will confirm that hamerite is pretty cr@p, both have used it on their front/rear wishbones and in less than 12 months they look really poor and the paint is flaking off.
If you have a jetwash, blast any muck off and so long as theres no bear metal just use waxoyl (black or clear). halfords do it in a aerosol version for around £6. I used one tin for each corner.
Dont bother trying to bring the suspension up to showroom condition as it just does'nt last.
There is a paint product that was recomended on here, they use it offshore aparently. Cant think of its name but it was highly rated... cue JohnW

Barrier cream and swarfega (the stuff with bits in, or use sugar, the missus will luv ya) = esential

It would be worth investigating to see if any local engineering companies could skim and true-up your discs to clean up the surface and ensure they run properly.

Mine were done before I even owned the car, and I still get really good braking efforts at the back come MOT-time.

Oh, and I find that a combination of Fairy Liquid, Ajax and a teaspoon of sugar is great for cleaning your hands. Helps you locate all the bits that you need to put plasters over too - mmm nice!

Dico,

Thanks for the encouragement, I'll pop down to halfords and pick up some waxoyl.

Neil,

I have already bought some EBC drilled (pitted) and grooved from Powerstop. Will post some pics when I get the chance.

Ailwyn

Powerstop doing drilled and grooved rear discs?

Looks like it, Here(need to put the car details in as the link doesn't take you to the Elan automatically). I assume (hope) the price is for a pair?

I like this "project thread" -- cute idea.

looking forward to helping when I can.

Do they really do rear discs that fit?? if so this is the first and only aftermarket rear for the Elan. The bearings are insode the rear disc so it's not as simple a disc to make as others.

If they really make them that's a good idea for a group discount buy . . .

"Discs always supplied in pairs." Is what it says. They also list rear Greenstuff pads...didn't think they were ever made.

Yes, they make drilled/grooved discs, although they are pitted rather than drilled through, think they were £180 for the pair.

They look the right size and shape to me.

I know someone commented previously that when they'd bought them they ended up with discs for a 2CV (3 stud?) but these definately have 4, and the bearing kits seem to be fitting (halfway in at the moment).

That brings me on to my next question... how do I get the runners(?) for the bearings all the way into the disc?

I could put the bearings in and keep tightening until the runner is pushed into it's correct location, but I'm worried that might damage the bearing or the runner.

Ailwyn

PS Anyone had any additional thoughts on the hub carrier to wishbone mounting nuts?

Anyone had any additional thoughts on the hub carrier to wishbone mounting nuts?

When I changed my rear wishbones, I bought all new nylocs from various sources. I found that for this size (M14?), there were generally two sorts available - narrow ones that were about 12-14mm deep, and thicker ones that were about 18-20mm deep, but were both sold together as the same. Basically, the thin ones are not up to the job and will strip their thread when torqued up, so my advice is try and match the physical size of the nuts you have taken off.

Phil

ailwyn wrote:That brings me on to my next question... how do I get the runners(?) for the bearings all the way into the disc?

I could put the bearings in and keep tightening until the runner is pushed into it's correct location, but I'm worried that might damage the bearing or the runner.

I was shown how to do bearings by a mechanic once, and all he did was use a big hammer and a punch to drive the runners in. This is what I did last week when I replaced my discs, transferring the old runners across to the new discs.
Alan

Drift the outer shells in with a bit of percussion engineering and just ensure they are seated properly all the way round on the lip inside the hub.

If you heat the disc (in an oven 300F) the bore dia will grow a couple of thou' and you'll have a much easier time installing the bearing cups without brute force and the risk of damage.
Have everything ready before putting the thoroughly degreased disc in the oven, use a 'soft' (aluminium, brass, hardwood?) drift preferably as close in diameter to the outside diameter of the bearings as possible, and don't forget leather gloves and have a stable heat-resistant work surface ready
Ideally if you can have the bearing cup attached to the drift, installation should be a piece of cake

Brain,

Thanks for the info, however I don't think the missus would be too pleased if I used the oven, less so if I scorched the kitchen worktop

I'll have to go down the route of whacking the life out of it.

Ailwyn

For anyone who's looking to strip down their brakes, do not loose or damage the bolts that attach the brake hose to the rear caliper!

Tried to order some new ones from SJ's, just for the shinny new look, only to find out that they're obsolete.

Anyone know if there's a x-ref for these bolts? Still have the old ones so a clean up job will be required if I can't get them replaced.

Ailwyn

Dear Ailwyn:

If you are talking about putting in new bearing races (the tapered metal rings in which the roller bearings ride), you should be able to tap them in using a drift and a dead blow hammer/ball peen hammer/small machinist's mallet. But here is a little secret-get yourself some brass drifts or brass drift material. The reason for this is that the brass will deform before the race does and you won't harm the bearing race if the drift slips while applying "gentle persuasion". Alterntaively, you can use a press. Also several companies make bearing race and seal driver kits. I have several, but it seems that most of the time they are either too small or to large for my crisis du jour.

The area behind the race is important as well. Make sure it is clean and there is no dirt or rust that can get lodged behind the race. The races have to be pressed in straight and completely. You would be amazed how even a thousandth of an inch behind a race can fool with your bearing lash (i.e. bearing clearances). A piece of emery paper works well to clean up the space behind a bearing race.

Be sure to pack you bearings well with appropriate wheel bearing grease. I use high temperature grease from Kendall. When you pack the bearing, your goal is to fill up the void space behind the rollers with grease. You can do this is several ways. One is to take a glob of grease and put it in your palm and then tap the "edge" of the bearing into the glob and keep moving the bearing around until you have filled up the void space behind the rollers with grease. Another way to do it is to use a bearing packer (Lisle tools makes my favorite see http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=534). I know it looks like a toy, but it really works and makes re-packing bearings a complete piece of cake.

I hope this helps. When I first read this thread, I thought you were talking about me. Anything I can do to help, do not hesitate to contact me.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

Dear Ailwyn:

One other thing. When you are driving in the bearing races, the sound will change slightly once they are completely seated. Don't keep smacking them after that. Just take your time and tap them in gradually a dn amke sure they go in straight. Also, remember that bearings and the races they ride in wear together so once they find a home and are paired up, you should not go switching them around. While new and unused, I don't think it is a problem.

And in general, it is a good thing that you have started this thread. I think it is safe to say that a great many of us have had mentors when it comes to cars. I know I did and he taught me a great deal not just about building small and big block Chevys for racing, but about life as well. Principles that you use around the garage that can also be used at your job, in dealing with friends and life in general. Thanks to this club, you potentially can benefit from multiple mentors from all over the world.

Off the top of my head, some of the more relevant ones are:

1. Safety. Everything you do always involves a "safety check". From jacking up the car to the parts you install to checking your tire pressures. Cars like ours are supposed to be fun. Tragedies do not make for a very good time.

2. The First Time. Do it right the first time. If you do it right the first time, you may not have to do it over again. Lotuses are demanding that way, especially my 1971. Cut a corner because you are in a hurry and that old girl will make you pay. If you don't follow this principle, then you will default to the "I did not have the time to do it right the first time, but I will now have to find time to do it over and over and over again until I get it right."

3. Hopefulness. There is nothing in a car that can't be figured out and fixed. It may take time, money and throwing up your hands and yelling "help" from time to time. It may be a royal pain in the tail section from time to time as well. But, everything can be fixed; everything can be figured out. Be hopeful of this. Plus, there is nothing about a car that you or I cannot learn. We may not get it on the first try, but in time we will. Knowing your way around a car is not like becoming an opera singer.

4. No pride. Everyone has done stupid stuff around cars. Everyone has done stupid stuff around cars that has cost them money. Myself included (Oh, God have I paid!). So will you. No need to fret about it. You will learn from it. And I seriously doubt if anyone from this club will deride you about anything. No question is too "dumb" or "stupid" to ask. In the last 2 years I have learned a great deal from this club and its members and look forward to doing so on into the future.

5. No crying in the pits/garage. Feel like throwing a wrench? Crack open a cold one. Feel like cursing like a drunken sailor? Crack open another cold one. Sometimes the most effective thing you can do in order to get your car back on the road as quickly as possible is to turn off the lights, go into the house, get cleaned up and go to sleep. Also, when you are tired, angry and frustrated is when you start doing stupid things or worse-make a mistake that involves safety.

These are just some of my miscellaneous musings. I hope they've helped and I'm sure there are others in this club who can provide you with even more valuable insights.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

Al,

Thanks for the words of wisdom.

I now have a second car, so the pressure is off for getting the Elan sorted, not that I'm going to take it easy or lose sight of the goal, it just allows me to take my time and hopefully get it right first time.

By the time I've finished with this thread it'll probably be an idiots guide to doing everything on the Elan

Thanks to all who've expressed support, and those who just think it

Ailwyn