Lotus Elan Central

Project February

Hi All,

Thought I'd post something about my plans for the car. Got a whole list of jobs to be sorted, and have decided to try and get it all done before Donington, hence the project title. I'd like to get everything finished by the end of February. These have been around for a while now, so I'm also hoping this post will put a bit more pressure on me to actually do them, instead of just talking about them!!!!!

Here's the list of things I am planning at the moment:

1. Fit LGM's Roll Bar
2. Fit Short Shift kit
3. Replace Timing belt and associated pulleys to try and fix some of
the whine noise issues
4. Fix the passengers window
5. Fix the heaters
6. Fix the roof release cable
7. Investigate possible oil leak
8. Make it as shiney as possible
9. Drive to Donnighton
10. Do a track day

Think most of it is acheivable, but could be tight as i already have quite a few other commitments.
I've think I've got all the bits I am going to need for now, so thats the hardest bit already done!!!

Sure I will be back here to ask for assistance + moral support at bad times!!!

Think it's going to be a busy month!

Cheers,
Dan

Good thing its a leap year...................isn't it????

Dan, only you know if your committed enough to get it all done before Dony ?, but good luck !

I'm committed but I need to have a word with some people about extending the days to about 48hrs!!!

Dan

Dans

What have you got planned for the second half of the month, then?

Sy

Well.... the daily drive is due a service........

Well... February is here.. so the project has begun!!

Started fitting the roll bar on the weekend. Got everything lined up perfectly. Roof closing without touching the bar. Looks Great!!! Marked up the tricky holed. Cussed and swore and scraped knuckles until I finally managed to get the hole drilled and the bolts through.... very tough!

Got all the bolts fitted.... began tightening them up. All sat nicely.....everything tightened.

But somehow the bars are now sat in a differenet place, and the roof rubs and so does the stowage cover.

Decided that was a good point to walk away from it!! Expect that it is going to be a case of adjusting a few bolts/holes and having another go at it.

Maybe tomorrow night though!!!

Dan

Anyone got any tips about how to remove the cambelt cover?????
Getting access to the hex sockets is nigh on impossible as far as we can see.
It's starting to make us depressed!! Currently working at about 1 bolt an hour!!!!

Cheers,
Dan

dans wrote:Anyone got any tips about how to remove the cambelt cover?????
Getting access to the hex sockets is nigh on impossible as far as we can see.
It's starting to make us depressed!! Currently working at about 1 bolt an hour!!!!

Cheers,
Dan

I`ve not done this but i`ve heard u need to cut down an Allen key to get in there Just wonder if u support the engine, remove the bolt from the engine mount to the chassis and lift the engine slightly will that help Before removing the cover make sure u can remove the bolt from the bottom pulley as this is a B**tard

dans wrote:Anyone got any tips about how to remove the cambelt cover?????
Getting access to the hex sockets is nigh on impossible as far as we can see.
It's starting to make us depressed!! Currently working at about 1 bolt an hour!!!!

Cheers,
Dan

You have to remove the right hand motor mount. There are 4-allan head bolts that hold the bracket to the motor, this also has to be removed. Make sure you put a jack under the motor.

Dan,

It took me most of a day to get the bracket off, and then i found an easy method (when it was too late for me!)

Firstly, as Monty says, get the bolt out of the crank pulley (I've given a write-up elsewhere as to my method of doing it - it can be a bugger, but is quite possible!)

Second, remove the crank pulley - i needed to put a 3-leg puller on mine to get it off, it was quite a tight fit!

Then you need an 8mm allen key and an angle grinder.

Cut about a 2cm length off the SHORT end of the allen key.

The key will then fit into the socket heads on the bolts and you can use a 10" (half inch drive) extension bar over the allen key to give extra leverage.

Once you have 'cracked off' the bolts, use the short bit you cut off the allen key to put into the bolts, and use an 8mm spanner to turn it.

Once the bottom pulley is off, it gives plenty of access from underneath to get to all 4 bolts.

To get the bracket off, you may need to undo the oil cooler pipe to give it enough clearance, and it helps (but not totally necessary) if the power steering pipe is taken off the pump and stowed out of the way.

Good luck!

One other thing, the idler pulley bolt on mine was stuck extremely tight, and i ended up grinding the head off it, pulling the idler away, and then undoing it with my fingers! (I ruined the head of the bolt trying to undo it, but as the cylinder head was on the bench, at least i could get to it easily.
The tensioner and water pump bolts were all easy to get at and undo (might be a bit harder with the head still on, though).

dapinky wrote:Dan,

It took me most of a day to get the bracket off, and then i found an easy method (when it was too late for me!)

Firstly, as Monty says, get the bolt out of the crank pulley (I've given a write-up elsewhere as to my method of doing it - it can be a bugger, but is quite possible!)

Second, remove the crank pulley - i needed to put a 3-leg puller on mine to get it off, it was quite a tight fit!

Then you need an 8mm allen key and an angle grinder.

Cut about a 2cm length off the SHORT end of the allen key.

The key will then fit into the socket heads on the bolts and you can use a 10" (half inch drive) extension bar over the allen key to give extra leverage.

Once you have 'cracked off' the bolts, use the short bit you cut off the allen key to put into the bolts, and use an 8mm spanner to turn it.

Once the bottom pulley is off, it gives plenty of access from underneath to get to all 4 bolts.

To get the bracket off, you may need to undo the oil cooler pipe to give it enough clearance, and it helps (but not totally necessary) if the power steering pipe is taken off the pump and stowed out of the way.

Good luck!

One other thing, the idler pulley bolt on mine was stuck extremely tight, and i ended up grinding the head off it, pulling the idler away, and then undoing it with my fingers! (I ruined the head of the bolt trying to undo it, but as the cylinder head was on the bench, at least i could get to it easily.
The tensioner and water pump bolts were all easy to get at and undo (might be a bit harder with the head still on, though).

WOW!

That is a ton of work!

It is not that hard a guess if you have the right tools. I have done mine so many times I can get the cover off and back on in less than 45 min. No grinder needed

dapinky wrote:
Once you have 'cracked off' the bolts, use the short bit you cut off the allen key to put into the bolts, and use an 8mm spanner to turn it.

You clever bugger you!

Doc Fizzix wrote: I have done mine so many times I can get the cover off and back on in less than 45 min.

You clever bugger you!

Doc Fizzix wrote:WOW!

That is a ton of work!

It is not that hard a guess if you have the right tools. I have done mine so many times I can get the cover off and back on in less than 45 min. No grinder needed

Lots of work, but all part of a bigger plan anyway!

Head gasket had blown, head warped a bit, and decided to do the belt, pulleys and water pump at the same time!

I think that now I've done it once, I could get it off in much less time.

I cut an 8mm allen key down into a 2cm piece, place it into one of the bolts, slip one of those ratchet ring spanners over the end, and away to go!

It does help if you do as monty said, remove the bolt going through the engine mount, and jack the engine up a little bit further. Just make sure you are not straining any hoses etc.

Dico wrote:
You clever bugger you!

Practice maks perfect

Plus, I had done it about 4 times since my motor rebuild, I kept getting bearing noise from the timing belt so I kept trying to adjust the tension, finally got it. I had it way to tight to start with, I took the service manuals definition of "firm finger" when tightning the timing belt to mean painful to press down on the belt

Now I got one tappet making a little to much noise so I am going to have to dive into her again

Cheers Boys,
we got there eventually, lot of blood sweat and tears. 1 bolt took 2 hours!!!!! Lots of screaming and shouting when we finally cracked it!!
We had already ground an allen key which did the business eventually!
Top tip on sing the cut off bit to turn things around, that'll be great for putting things back tomorrow!

Pleased to say that the idler was definetly knackered, so heres hoping that will cure the whine.

After a few beers and a goulash we should be good to go tomorrow am!!

Thanks for your responses!!

Dan

BTW my mate has the perect tool for getting the bottom pulley off. He's had it on his tool kit for years and not known what its for and turns out it's perfect. Will post pictures soon!

Did it!! After two days of work it's all done! Got everything back together and now it's running a lot sweeter.

Very satisfying when the car fired up with out anything going bang!!

The pin spanner bought the farm during the rebuild though!!!

Pictures soon.

Dan