Homemade anti-roll bar/sway bar endlinks

[FunElan]

Hi all,

For documentation purposes, I made a very crude and poorly produced video about my homemade anti-roll bar endlink. Credit to Dave Pink for the initial design.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyNKWtT ... chCashPoor

[Simon_P]

Great video thanks!

You have all the right ingredients - sun, blue sky, smooth hardstanding, plenty of space, no rust.

[Grosbard]

Great video! Thanks for posting it!!

[FunElan]

Great video thanks!

You have all the right ingredients - sun, blue sky, smooth hardstanding, plenty of space, no rust.

I'm definitely very lucky to be here!

[Hector2021]

Wow. I cant imagine what a UK MOT tester would make of that?

[Fredjohn]

Wow. I cant imagine what a UK MOT tester would make of that?

Absolutely nothing! I used Dave's idea about 8 years ago because of broken links and have never had an MOT fail or advisory because of it.

No doubt Dave can say the same thing too as he did it before me.

[Saltire]

Wow. I cant imagine what a UK MOT tester would make of that?

Absolutely nothing! I used Dave's idea about 8 years ago because of broken links and have never had an MOT fail or advisory because of it.

No doubt Dave can say the same thing too as he did it before me.

Mine goes through the MoT every year with this “enhancement” and n’er a problem.

[dapinky]

Whilst I am quite happy to do a bit of "engineering" to keep my cars on the road at as low a cost as possible, I would never advocate a method of repair which would affect the integrity of the vehicle, safety of yourself, or anyone else.

I make no claim to being either an "Engineer" or a "Mechanic" - but I do tend to know which way round to hold a hammer.

My skills lie elsewhere, and with the benefit of a wide education over the years, the blessings of a good memory, and the ability to conduct research to a reasonable level, I am quite happy that I haven't suggested anyone do anything which would cause any issues.

As for a "UK MOT Tester" - well, they are all individuals, with different standards of objectivity, and most of them understand the MOT testing standards.

If you (or anyone else) has a concern over this (or any other) modification, please feel free to raise it either here or by PM, and I'll try to explain the thoughts, reasoning and conclusions to the project. (although there is a pretty full explanation of it in my original thread from when I developed this one).

[HJ2]

Without having looked further into this:
I would rather use a machined spacer out of a good (hard) quality steel (as the rest of the materials should be ) in stead of the array of washers.

[Hector2021]

I hadnt intended to upset or challenge anyones know how or skills. I too am not a mechanic but i have worked on every car i have ever owned and learned an amount of skills to fashion quite a few alternative fixes over the years. My skills are really more electrically biased.
My comment was really based on the use of a large number of washers to create a spacer and the fact that the ball joint was exposed to the elements, where the original was protected by a boot. It it usually the absence or failure of this boot that i figured would provoke an MOT failure. Obviously not though as has been borne out by the responses here.
As said though, no offence intended, more an ecpression of my own initial thoughts.

[Tuga2112]

Wow. I cant imagine what a UK MOT tester would make of that?

Absolutely nothing! I used Dave's idea about 8 years ago because of broken links and have never had an MOT fail or advisory because of it.

No doubt Dave can say the same thing too as he did it before me.

Mine goes through the MoT every year with this “enhancement” and n’er a problem.

been passing my mots with this enhancement for around 6 years, no one ever raised an eyebrow about it with exception of a lotus specialist shop in Knalerborough (which has completely restored an m100 and does not do MOTs)

[FunElan]

Without having looked further into this:
I would rather use a machined spacer out of a good (hard) quality steel (as the rest of the materials should be ) in stead of the array of washers.

If I didn't have such a big list of other things to fix, I'd invest some time into this

If I did, I would sell these as a kit, ready to install. As it is, I have a ton of leftover hardware because I bought in bulk. The washers are good quality steel, they should work fine for these loads.....for now

[steve matthews]

Without having looked further into this:
I would rather use a machined spacer out of a good (hard) quality steel (as the rest of the materials should be ) in stead of the array of washers.

If I didn't have such a big list of other things to fix, I'd invest some time into this

If I did, I would sell these as a kit, ready to install. As it is, I have a ton of leftover hardware because I bought in bulk. The washers are good quality steel, they should work fine for these loads.....for now

I believe John (formerly British Car Nut) has this kit ready to go.

[MRP]

I am replacing the sway bar end links and followed the repair guide in the Repairs section. After punching out the old pivot bolt with a screwdriver when I tried to insert the new end link pivot bolt and push out the screwdriver, the screwdriver would not move. After using a punch to take it out I still could not get the new pivot bolt in past halfway. After hammering out the screw driver again, when removing the punch the damper yoke moved and is no longer aligned with the holes in the lower wishbone on either side. I cannot move the spring assembly to realign he bolts so I wonder if I am going to have to remove the damper assembly. Any help would be appreciated.

[MRP]

I am replacing the sway bar end links and followed the repair guide in the Repairs section in LotusElanCentral. After punching out the old pivot bolt with a screwdriver to keep the holes on the yoke and the wishbone lines up, when I tried to insert the new end link pivot bolt and push out the screwdriver, the screwdriver would not move. After using a punch to take it out I still could not get the new pivot bolt in past halfway. After hammering out the screw driver again, when removing the punch the damper yoke moved and is no longer aligned with the holes in the lower wishbone on either side. I cannot move the spring assembly to realign he bolts so I wonder if I am going to have to remove the damper assembly. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Mike

[NoahR]

Mike, did you ever sort this out?

Dapinky, is there a thread on this from when you did the original job? Going to need todo this on my car, but in the uk.

[NoahR]

Found the thread!

[simonbuk]

I guess this might have been done as original replacements were something like 135 quid ? SJs have reproduced them now and are, I think, about 35 quid.

[NoahR]

I guess this might have been done as original replacements were something like 135 quid ? SJs have reproduced them now and are, I think, about 35 quid.

Ah, that would make sense. It cost me about 90£, including VAT and delivery, for two from SJ.