S2 #378 (Steve) - hopefully only light fixes

[378S2]

I also see a drop of fluid that might be coming from that joint

Oh dear - that's n=2 for the rebuild with the same o-rings not working so I think that has made my decision for me. I have rebuilt them again and they appear to be fine, but that was also the case last time.

Dave, thank you very much indeed for that link - there was not too much waffle for me at all. I've bought a pair of the Wildwood M10 versions (Part 260-12627), Amazon from the US they only cost ~$130AUD. My logic was that if I am going to replace the hard lines and valves, I might as well save ~$200AUD and have adjustable versions than go for the like-for-like SJS replacements. I am sure I can find a rolling road nearby and have them do the balancing for me. There were quite a few cheaper options from brands I didn’t know and no-brand copies of the Wilwood units (all avoided).

Delivered and with a discount I didn’t ask for but did accept, a pair of these were only $135AUD. They are the M10 versions.

I've put it all back on the car so it's hard to measure, but does anyone know off the top of their heads what the joints I will need on the replacement hard lines are? 3/16 pipe? What thread?

[dapinky]

George,

I didn't use the Wilwood ones, so I can only guess that the hard lines will be the same as I used for mine..... (but probably slightly different lengths/routing).

The pipe is standard 3/16 with a male double-flair, and standard metric M10x1mm fittings.

[378S2]

It’s M10 on the Wilwood part too, so that’s easy.

Thanks Dave, your advice as always is just what I needed.

[378S2]

Right then. I jumped a little deeper in to the rabbit hole, and have pulled out the specification of the Wildwood valve I have bought to compare to the OEM S2 (2/15) valves I am replacing.

Wildwood vs. OEM Gen 1, 2 and 3

Does anyone have a view if the the slightly higher pressure at high braking loads will make any difference? It’s hard to gauge if it would stand out from the 'noise' of stickier pad compounds, old sliders and all the otter factors that are variable.

(The Wildwood's are on order, but I will stump up more money if needed.)

[Tuga2112]

id be more conserned with the risk of it locking both rear wheels when at speed, you gotta take into account that with a tank low on fuel the only weight at the rear wheels is effectively some of yourself and the spare tire. (not much chassis back there)

[378S2]

Hi Tuga,

Fair - I wasn't so clear in my question. The rears locking is what I'm asking about. I hadn't spotted when I bought the Wilwoods (https://shop.wilwood.com/blogs/news/how ... valve-work) that their response is ~57/43 above the knee, whereas the McGill's (https://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/img/shp/BPV-KNOB_S.pdf) that Dave suggested in his original post are closer to 70/30 and a better match for the OEM valves.

I don't want to waste my money buying another set if the difference is marginal compared to other variables but if it is going to be significant then I will.

If anyone has a bit more experience than I do I'd love to hear about it.

[378S2]

I also asked on the Facebook page and found a couple of people using the Willwood valves without bursting in to flames, so that’s reassuring. The parts have all arrived now which coincided nicely with the driver’s side valve starting to leak again.

Some progress:

Made a mess on the workbench, and totally justified to myself the thousands of dollars I’ve ‘invested’ in tools over the years.

I’ve very carefully measured the plate so that the new input line is in the same spot as the one I’ve taken off. I don’t want to remake the complicated looking pipes upstream. This way I only need to make the short section downstream to the first rear flexible hose.

The old and the new. Should be a simple task to fit, unless I break one of the lines and wake the hounds of hell with my swearing.

The holes on the left are 6.5mm clearance holes for the M6 bolts to the subframe. I imagine I’ll keep enlarging those until they fit! On the right I’ve tapped them M6. The plate is 6mm thick which gives the correct stand-off from the frame. I ran out of M6 cap screws so can’t fit it tonight, I’ll need to track some down later in the week.

Update: I managed to collect some M6 stainless bolts on the way home:

Gone but not forgotten. There will be no public holiday for these regal stalwarts of my braking system.

They both fit nicely. I did open out the 6.5mm clearance holes to (cough cough) 8mm (and I don’t recall the proper term for a clearance hole 1/3 bigger than the bolt) but otherwise a good fit that means I only have two short hard lines to fabricate.

Update2: One side done and holding pressure nicely. The other side I wasn't happy with, and when tested dutifully pissed fluid on the garage floor!

Update 3: all sorted, holding a firm pedal nicely. Will test drive in the morning with the maximum reduction (minimum rear bias) and see how it feels. Big thanks to Dave P for all the help.

[378S2]

All buttoned up and working beautifully. I have to say the brakes are substantially better. I’m on the minimum rear bias setting but the pedal feel is much better and the nose doesn’t dip as much under heavy braking. So $140 + tools well spent.

[378S2]

I will soon have nothing left to fix… but not yet.

My power steering rack is leaking from the driver’s side. Do you think it is the sort of thing I can find a good shop to do, or does it need to get boxed up and sent to SJS for overhaul? I’m not going to attempt it myself.

Is removal as terrible as it looks?

(Is anyone else unable to post photos?)

[chrism]

Hi 378S2, thanks for sharing your 'light fixes' post. I recently shouted about an "uploaded file is empty," problem which meant I couldn't post pics.

It was fixed for a day or two and now has reverted - so you're not alone.

I gather someone can fix it who's a 'volunteer', and we must wait for them, but I'd personally like to know how to fix it myself (cos that's what we do, isn't it?...)

ps I still can't get my pics to 'stay'; you have to log on to see mine. What's your secret?

[Jamie N]

Hi 378S2, thanks for sharing your 'light fixes' post. I recently shouted about an "uploaded file is empty," problem which meant I couldn't post pics.

It was fixed for a day or two and now has reverted - so you're not alone.

I gather someone can fix it who's a 'volunteer', and we must wait for them, but I'd personally like to know how to fix it myself (cos that's what we do, isn't it?...)

ps I still can't get my pics to 'stay'; you have to log on to see mine. What's your secret?

Just use Imgur.... https://imgur.com/ , upload your pics to there, select 'BBCode', then click 'large thumbnail' and simply paste the link in your post and it will appear just like this, don't have to log in to view it either.

[chrism]

Brilliant...

[378S2]

Hello my friends. I’m thinking of changing my injectors, because I have some sort of illness that means I enjoy changing things you can’t see and won’t notice.

What’s the best one to buy? I’m running stock turbo and ECU. Do people really notice a difference changing them over? Should I consider simply cleaning the ones I have in there already?

www.fuelperformance.co.uk Seem like the top of the line but at £450 they are very expensive.

SJ also stock the RCs at the same price.

RockAuto have an attractively priced option, at less than AUD30 each they are very low cost. Is it any good? Would they be as good as OEM? Would I notice the difference if I bought the RCs?

[378S2]

One of #378’s previous owners kindly sent me some photos, nice to see some of the restoration work that took place before I was given a turn.

[TorqueHorse]

Oh, looks like I missed a few posts/updates, George!

1) Steering Rack My steering rack is weeping as well and don't relish shipping such a large item across an ocean blue. It looks like they have this seal rebuild kit that would be a lot friendlier on the postage https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and- ... H6023S.htm Do you think a local person could do the fettling? It would be great to hear if anyone else has done it themselves from that kit (and if they thought a competent shop could manage it OK)

2)Injectors Based on an old post here (I think) I picked up these injectors on ebay and they seem to run OK. I think FunElan recently put them in his as well. I don't know what your symptoms are to make you think they are an issue, but just in terms of cost, I shopped around and getting my old ones cleaned was a little over half the price of just getting these new ones. If you are looking at bargain injectors (which mine were when I got the car and they only delivered 2/3rds of the recommended fuel) just check on the static flow rates. Pretty sure stock spec is ~320.

3) Steve's History Really cool to see Steve's life before he was Steve. Glad to know it was done with care. Can't wait to get to the stage of painting mine.

[378S2]

Hi Matt...

1. The wisdom of the group (and I spoke to SJS) is that there's nothing particularly special about our racks. I bought the kit too and plan to keep ignoring it because I don't want to take the rack out. the wisdom of the group also said, don't dream about doing the recon ourselves.

2. Well, no symptoms except that the previous owner who sent me those photos told me he bought another S2 which was a lot faster, although he thinks it might have been tuned. And I like tinkering.

[TorqueHorse]

...the wisdom of the group also said, don't dream about doing the recon ourselves.

GTK! I think I've learnt my lessons now and might actually listen to the wisdom of the group on this one.

And good luck on the search for more of Steve's speed.

[378S2]

Thank you for the recommendation Matt, I’ve bought a set of these injectors:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191637275013?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=rnUrOdtkS9-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=KBGxwF05TcC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I’ve also considered changing my leads and coils. Our coils are common to a very plentiful car here the Holden Commodore V6. I’ve read elsewhere on the forum that MSD 8224 are the ones to go for. However, this equivalent part is a lot less expensive ($70 for a pair) and I can pick it up anywhere:

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/goss-goss-ignition-coil-c421/631723.html?cgid=SCA01080205&vid=NPKcnD1bRr5A5onKu6E1fA%3D%3D#vid=NPKcnD1bRr5A5onKu6E1fA%3D%3D&start=3

Similarly I could get these leads for next to nothing which look different but apparently fit and only cost $50:

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/bosch-bosch-super-sports-ignition-lead-kit-b4168i/346095.html

Has anyone had any luck with these alternatives? For only $122 I could have a whole new ignition system.

[FunElan]

I can confirm that those injectors work fine!

Can't speak to those coils, but I got a cheap American equivalent from a brand called Duralast. We'll see if they really live up to the brand name....


These wires, while a bit far away from you, are a direct fit 100%: https://www.kingsbornewires.com/product ... 20m100.htm. I did a search on those bosch ones and couldn't find anything, did you find them here?

[378S2]

Well maybe I will try out a set of those coils. I will be in the UK in January; if they work ok and anyone would like me to bring a box over I'd be happy to.

Thanks for the tip on the leads, mine do need replacing. I will see what I can source without the delivery charge and report back.