Fed Spec

[cellaway]

The car is still ticking over at about1100 and the exhaust colour is darker than I would expect so I’m still messing around with the vacumn hoses at the back of the plenum chamber as it’s the easier option to eliminate the problem. I’ve seen the recent post on the “engine running rich thread” and if I can’t fix it with hoses , I’ll follow the advice on that. However back to the plenum which has 2 spigots at a higher level, 1 at a lower.as per EMK 3 in the services notes. Is there any difference with how the spigots are terminated inside the plenum ? Does it matter which hoses go on which spigots? The notes only show two take offs, 1 to the 2nd throttle reservoir and another to the ventilation reservoir. No mention of the purge line. What I thought was the one way valve I now think, because of the size, is the 2nd throttle vac.reservoir, so I’ll have to look for the one way valve on the purge line.

[Tuga2112]

my understanding from earlier posts (and i hope KenS will correct me) is that some of those may be blanked from the factory. I Would be looking at the manuals and copy what they show.

alternatively, if I wasnt able to find information and nobody here knows (theres a few americans that you can poke) being all "just vacum tubes" i dont see any harm is joining all in the same place and then re-distributing, in theory all will have the same vacum "amount" when the engine is running.

I dont know if you checked already or not. but worth asking. if you checked if all injectors are clicking ? an injector stuck open would overfuel

[cellaway]

I can’t find the one way valve which is supposed to go from the left hand side at the rear of the plenum chamber to the fuel tank. I’m assuming that it runs from
the lower of the three spigots on the rear of the chamber. After a foot or so the 3 mm pipe appears to disappear into a spiral wrapped
loom or covered pipes and runs left and under the bulkhead towards the rear of the car. I gu3ss on the wat to the fuel tank. The other two higher spigots have 3mm pipes to a small throttle position reservoir and the other to the ventilation reservoir behind the left hand side wheel well. It could be missing but are there any
ideas as to where else the valve should be or can be and if not, where I can get a replacement from. I obviously asked Dapinky the font of
knowledge, for advice but he pointed out that the fedspec had a different evaporation system, so couldn't help. So American friends, I need advice

[KenS]

Sounds like your non return valve may have fallen off. I assume the Fed cars are the same as the UK S2s which follow the diagram in manual section EMJ.2

The non-return valve on a UK S2 is very hard to see or photograph, but mine is right at the start of the spiral wrap taking the bundle under the bulkhead:

The valve is about 30mm (inch and a quarter) diameter, part number A910E6863F. SJ do list the part so may have it but it is expensive, would be useful to find an alternative.

[cellaway]

Ken thanks for the prompt reply. It looks like I've got a couple of vacumn hoses on the wrong spigots. That was how I inherited them and the purge line was lost down the back of the engine. I'll try and source a one way valve in france. If not it might have to wait untill I can get back to Blighty

[KenS]

There is a second hand non-return valve on UK ebay, search for 'Lotus Esprit Non Return Valve SE V8 Genuine Part Original NRV A910E6863F' not sure on delivery to France

[KenS]

And found an Esprit list that gives alternatives for A910E6863F as : Standard Motor Products DSV15, Carquest DSV15, NAPA CRB 21015, Pearly Wot Nots PWN 246. but so far I have not found any of these!

EDIT: the Pearly Wot Not PWN 246 non-return valve is available from a few ebay sellers in the UK, but not sure if I would trust it since its refered to as a washer fluid non-return valve.

[cellaway]

The next job is to adjust the door glass and replace the weather and brush seals on both sides. So for obvious reasons I ordered a couple of butterfly clips at about £10 each. The postage was £10 and the customs duty was 28 euro. What is going on ?

[Tuga2112]

The next job is to adjust the door glass and replace the weather and brush seals on both sides. So for obvious reasons I ordered a couple of butterfly clips at about £10 each. The postage was £10 and the customs duty was 28 euro. What is going on ?

3d printing is a viable option worth considering in future

youtube has videos on that kind of work already if you need inspiration

[cellaway]

I'm in the middle of removing the door glass in order to replace the seals and try and improve the action of the linkages. I watched the you tube vids so had a decent idea of how to proceed. The vids didn't mention the copious amount of silicon sealant or the different fasteners. I guess the previous mechanic didn't have the manuals, however back to the plot. The glass won't come out of the rear channel All the bolts have be loosened to give more movement. The front of the glass appears to move OK and at the rear the first of the sliders exits OK but then there's a clunk which appears to originate a couple of inches down. Probably the other block but then there is no further movement. The channel looks fine and apart from a roller missing at the top so does the guides bobbins and all the rest of the gubbins. Without cutting into the interior of the door it looks like the glass has to come out before the channel can be removed. The widows were working well.
Any ideas ?

[Tuga2112]

its probably a matter of tilting the window in different directions untill it clears out whatever is stopping it.

removing and re-installing the windows is never easy. (be preparaed re-installing is actually harder than removing) )

i woudl suggest confirming that theres nothing in the rail blocking it. but if the top one came out fine. there shoudl be nothing in the rail.

[cellaway]

Cheers Tuga
The problem was that the rear most self tapper screw wasn’t standard size. The head was a fraction deeper and fouled the bottom block. A lucky escape

Chriso

[cellaway]

I’ve replaced the right hand side seals. I had to prefabricate fasteners to secure the door card back on but apart from that, OK.
The left hand side has obviously been removed several times. The card fasteners look to be M6 and siliconed in, the blanking plates are screwed on and siliconed, the pad behind the handle is heavily glued on to the card. The sliders have rollers and a securing screw missing and the center guide has the securing tabs missing and repaired. It must have taken hours to bodge this lot together. We need legislation to stop cruelty to Lotus and group, touchy feely therapy for us owners. Well maybe not

The center slider appears to be out of stock with all of our suppliers, The lead time seems to be 7 weeks or so. Has anybody got a left hand slider for sale ? Otherwise I’ll try and repair the slider and in the meantime, put the glass back in, prop it to the right height and wait till the slider is back in stock.

[cellaway]

As the replacement of the door seals has ground to a halt whilst I wait for the left hand centre regulator guide, I thought I'd make a move on changing the brake pipes and the brake master cylinder, The new master cylinder reservoir doesn't come with the MC so the original one must be used. Apart from removing the black cap before it's lost, is there anything else I need to look out for ? I've got HiSpecs on the front and PNM's on the rear, and am hoping that this will give me a more positive stop. The only things left are the valves and the servo and the servo looks bullet proof . Maybe I'm used to driving a more modern car

[Tuga2112]

those upgrades are certainly the ones everyone hypes about, im afraid i dont have any advice on improvement as i never experienced them. and i believe there is nothing special abour bleeding them correctly. (unlike the stock rear calipers)

[cellaway]

The flexible pipes have been changed for braided from MW braided lines, The MC has been changed. System bled through a couple of times with the Easy Bleed. Lots of air out but no pressure yet. I'll continue later today. The two issues that cropped up was that the pitch in the supplied banjo bolts was different from the high spec callipers and I'm not sure that the reservoir is as tight against the master cylinder as it should be

[Tuga2112]

PFTE tape will be a suitable temporary solution in order to confirm the connections are the problem.

after you confirm that the connectors are the issue. you can order replacements.

[cellaway]

No leaks apparent. The 5th bleed produced a small amount of air from the front rhs calliper so I guess that’s about it. The brakes have a different feel with the new master cylinder so I’ll drive the car and see if it settles down and then re bleed. The hi spec callipers need bleeding by the inboard nipple first. Whether or not it makes much of a difference I don’t know but that is what is recommended. There’s a faint smell of Petrol when the tank is full and whist fed spec cars were recalled for the fitment of a new tank, I can’t find out if mine was covered. According to Andy Graham at Lotus, the fitter was supposed to mark under the fuel flap. I can’t see anything so I guess the next job is tank out and inspect for cracks. Thankfully there are vids on you tube.

[Tuga2112]

be very carefull with tank removal (and more importantly re-instalation)

when i installed mine, i had to push it hard and it wasnt quite correctly aligned.

the end result was a crack under the filler pipe which i addressed... and then cracked again on re-iinstalling it a secodn time.

the tanks are old and the plastic a bit more brittle than before.

[cellaway]

Thanks for that Tuga. I’ve watched the vids but think I’ll clear some of the smaller jobs as it looks bloody awkward.