New Engine Fired Up and Nearly there......

[simonbuk]

So i've progressed with my newly refurbished engine and got it to a stage of priming and firing it up for the first time.

Initially quite noisey to a point that maybe i'd screwed the timing up but after stopping and checking that the timing hadn't slipped i was happy to continue. Very clicky/tappetty so could only assume it was lifters not yet filled up with oil. Good oil pressure.

Received my new timing gun yesterday so proceeded with that this morning. Warmed the engine a little , put it in service mode, raised revs to just over 2,000 revs and let them drop slowly. The revs were running high at idle but then realised that as i haven't yet got the clam back on i haven't got the vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold connected to the transducer for the turbo gauge. Once i put my finger over that the revs would drop down but still only settled to about 15/1600.

Used the timing gun and got it to 16 degrees BTDC, took it out of service mode. Turned off, started again and checked it, it seemed to be a little bit more advanced when i took it out of service mode ?. Anyway, persisted until it was at 16 degrees when it was out of service mode.

The noise gradually got better and i believe all the lifters are now full/unstuck/working correctly.

As i was checking the timing in the wheel arch i forgot i hadn't put the pressure cap back on the coolant header tank (as wanted an escape for any air) and things started to get hot

A small oil leak also but quickly found that was the oil pressure relief bolt that was only hand tight

So getting there slowly and after a bit of mopping up no leaks, engine run up to temperature, fans kicked in , checked secondary water pump, got coolant travelling through heater matrix.

So the only thing left is the slightly higher revs (even when the inlet manifold pipe is plugged), still about 500/600 revs too high.

Thought the idle was automatically controlled ? Is there something I need to reset or another procedure i need to follow ?

Have a slight unfamiliar noise coming from the left side of the engine too - maybe power steering pump ? But haven't turned the wheel much yet so maybe not enough fluid in the pump yet ?

Any advice appreciated - sitting indoors now as got a little high/queesy on fumes

[simonbuk]

OK, so found out that the revs will rise and fall a little if there is an issue with the base idle . Theres an adjustment screw that can be altered whilst in service mode......

And check the throttle cable adjustment........

[KenS]

Looks like you are doing well. That throttle by-pass screw should bring the idle down (page 17 in the Engine Management Manual). Make sure the engine is fully at normal running temperature before making all the final adjustments. I think the timing is set to 16deg only while in Service mode, I don't think you should adjust it once set out of service mode. Once it is all setup you should be able to switch it in and out of service mode and the idle should stay the same (950rpm) in both modes. If you still have a fast idle, there was an instance where the power steering pressure switch was bad or not reconnected that causes a fast idle. Good luck, all in time to enjoy the better weather.

[simonbuk]

It's funny you should mention the power steering pressure switch !! I found a wire hanging down from under the pump but nowhere for it to plug into. At a similar time somebody on one the the Facebook groups found a similar wire but after some research said it was redundant and only used on US cars ?
Is this the switch you might be talking about about ? Literally hangs down from directly underneath the pump ?

I have got the idle down to where it needs to be and everything sounding healthier so far - not smelling healthuer though as very rich and a little smokey.

I assume on an S2 car the emissions are controlled by the O2 sensor and catalytic converter - there is nothing for adjustment ?

[simonbuk]

Umm..... misunderstood about how to refill the power steering system, hope i haven't knackered the pump

[KenS]

I think there is a spare wire down in that corner so you are probably OK, the Power steering switch is at the bottom of the pump with a single Blue-Black wire plugged onto a post, the wire is sleeved in grey. Picture attached looking up from the floor but not very good! Yes, S2 emissions are controlled by the O2 sensor so no CO Pot to adjust like on the SEs. Sounds like you are there and just need it to burn off the assembly oil and for it to 'learn' its new settings. Good luck. (An Elanscan plot would be handy reference once set-up)

powersteering.jpg

[simonbuk]

Thats the wire !! Where the hell does it go ??!!

[KenS]

Just had a search around and can confirm that the Power Steering pressure switch closes to ground at high pressure and sets a higher idle, so if the wire is not connected (open circuit) the idle will not be raised. only a failed pressure switch or short of the wiring would cause a fast idle.
If I remember correctly, the wire connector is a single bullet type with the wire attached at its side, and that pushes over a brass rod (maybe threaded) that sticks straight down from the bottom of the pump. But I am sure there is another wire in that area that does hang free, probably for catalyst temp sensor or AirCon for overseas market.

[simonbuk]

Just found this too from another thread -

'I found the wire exiting the right side of the right radiator fan loom. It has a bullet connection with a small black rubber "hood" that covers the brass post on the power steering pump switch.'

Thanks for searching

[simonbuk]

Something I just thought of - when you put the car in 'service mode' it apparently ignores input from the engines sensors.

Would this include the O2 sensor ?

This would explain why things became very stinky every so often !!

[KenS]

I don't know for sure if the O2 sensor is ignored in Service mode, but I would guess that it would remain active otherwise there could be quite a step change when going into service mode to set something like the idle adjust. Someone on here may be able to give a more authoritive statement. But it is fact that the O2 sensor info is ignored if the engine/exhaust temperature is too low i.e. cold start, and during that time default values are used to run, but the O2 sensor normally warms up within 10s of seconds. Plots from Elanscan can show this sort of detail, where the O2 sensor is too cold and its voltage is initially not in its working range, so the ECU does not initially go into closed loop, but as it warms up and becomes quite dynamic, the ECU goes into closed loop mode:

o2 working.jpg

If you can get an ElanScan log file from cold start it can be useful to confirm that the O2 sensor is performing and that the coolant temp sensor and thermostat are working as they should. But we shouldn't be looking for problems that don't exist. Just give it a run and enjoy!

[KenS]

Just come across a sketch showing the Power Steering Pump pressure switch connection, my be handy for someone searching through these posts in the future:

pas switch.jpg

[simonbuk]

Ah yes thank you. I found the connector earlier - it was tacked under the front cross member , had to fumble around and feel for it. Mine was a spade connector not a bullet connector.