New Soft-top

[davidjt]

Needing a new one before Winter sets in: main options in SE appear to be HoodsCountyCustom in Southend, which I've seen recommended, Car Hood Warehouse in Chessington and Monsoon in E. Sussex. Comments from anyone who has had a new top fitted by any of the above (or a supplier/fitter in Kent?) would be much appreciated. Thanks.

[daveiow]

Definitely recommend Car Hood Warehouse
But only for the fabric as they don't do seals
Their design is the S2 type and it fitted on my SE perfectly.
daveiow

[Steve A]

I think the trick is to find a firm that mainly does roofs and is familiar with the Elan

[Dave Eds]

Like M100hoods.co.UK in Norwich!

[Megwenda]

Hope I am not 'hijacking' this topic, but I think my question below is relevant to having new tops fitted, and a good answer would definitely help me, and quite possible some other members as well

Many many years ago, I did my apprenticeship in a Auto shop in Zambia, which included a few months working in the glass and upholstery division. Part of our business was also in restoring and re-upholstering old cars, and as Zambia was so far away from the OEM (in fact any) suppliers, we had to 'fettle' quite a bit.

@Daveiow: I have read in previous topics that when Car Hood replaced your hood, they managed to do that without damaging the header seal (as you say above, they replace the hood, but used the original seals).

Now, the material for the top is fitted to the frame before the header rail carrier is attached, so the only way to fit a new top is to get the header rail off. In order to do that, one has to get at 6 or 7 nuts... problem is, these nuts lie under the header seal.

I can only think of two ways this could have been done

1) Remove the header seal: Unless one is lucky, this option is quite extreme as the seals were often fitted with a bead of Silastik/RTV732 which tends to bond to them, and therefore generally results in damage to the seal. Maybe Car Hoods has some chemical which loosens up the seal?

2) Use a sharp hole punch to punch a hole through the seal above the nut large enough to allow a socket to go through, This would enable removing the nuts, and therefore the header rail carrier complete with seal, so no damage to the seal. After reattachment, a plug could then be used to fill up the hole. Even without the plugs, it shouldn't affect the sealing as the area of the seals where the holes would be fits flat against the top of the windscreen, and is compressed. Of course, opening the holes MAY be a problem as it would be opening the skin of the seal, enabling it to work more as a sponge as usual.

If it was the latter option that was used, there would probably be evidence of it... 7 small holes, or 'plugs' seen when the header seal is open.

I currently have my seal off (see topic below this), and as soon as I have worked out how, will be putting it back on..... trouble is, my soft top is tatty, and I am thinking of driving to the UK next year, and having a new one fitted.... but obviously don't want to have any risk of having to replace the seal then (waste of scarce Lotus resources and money)

So, if it is possible to use option 2, then I would like to punch the holes before replacing it this time... would be much cleaner and easier than doing it next time, and also, it is easier to work fitting the header rail into the carrier when it is off the car.

@Daveiow: Could you check your car and advise if there is any sign option 2 was used
@Everyone else: Do you think this would work, or am I just mad

[Jamie N]

I wouldn't punch holes in the seal Dave, I think that would turn out pretty rough no matter how careful you are, as you are aware the "outer skin" on the sponge seals are very thin and getting a clean cut then plugging it and making it look at least presentable would be a challenge for sure, not that its ever exposed to view really, I suppose it just depends on much of a perfectionist you are.

If it was me I would bond it on with sikaflex/tiger seal etc and when the time came to remove it I would just use a very sharp blade to cut through the sealant, that's how ive removed them in the past and been able to keep them in one piece and reusable if needed, another way although similar is to mark where the screws are and only pry back that section to reach the screw, then you can remove the seal and header rail in one.

Bear in mind the header rail screws will likely be rusted in place due to the seal retaining water, get those sorted out whilst the seal is off.

[daveiow]

I will check next time I put the hood down.
At present it is torrential rain here so may be a day or two
daveiow

[Megwenda]

@Daveiow: Many thanks.. no rush, I have plenty enough other things to do on the Elan (just replaced sliders and butterflies, and today managed to get the front of the windows aligned tightly to the A piller seal.... next step to fit new loudspeakers and then reassemble the doors, Fit new mechless head unit, fit new speakers at read, fit new pioneer subwoofer ... and a thousand other little things...

@Jamie: Thanks for the input.... the 'skin problem' was also my biggest worry about the holes.... will have to really think about this

[adster]

I had my hood done at county customs in southend,
Quick turnaround and a great job.