Some questions from a newbie

[Faraday]

Hi all, I am sure that some of this will cause a chuckle or two whilst reading for those of you more mechanically minded than me, (That being the majority of the developed world and some parts of Mansfield too!) but having now got my restored Elan M100 SE Turbo on the road, and loving the way it drives, I have a few qustions, having read loads of posts on here but not understanding a lot of them.
Now I am no mechanic, never have been, never will be, so all of the mechanical stuff was done by my local, trusted garage, but I would like to learn the basics, so that I understand what I am talking about. On saying that, I am familiar with the principals of an engine (suck squeeze bang blow) but I would like to run a few bits by you to put my mind at rest or point me in the right direction if I may.
1) Accelerating in the Elan, the turbo boost guage goes about 3/4 of the way up then when I put the clutch out it drops back to the bottom (I should say here I have never owned a turbo charged car before). Is that about right, what it should do? (It certainly does accelerate very well)
2) Having accelerated as 1 above, occasionally there feels what I can only describe as a slight mis-fire, hardly noticeable, but as though it is struggling to accelerate smoothly. What might be the cause of that?
3) Having accelerated as 1 above, the engine management light comes on more often than not, then after about 5 minutes of steady driving goes out until the next time I accelerate rapidly, my limited knowledge makes me think this means the engine is running too rich, or am I way off the mark? (It also comes on if I run the car idling up to running temperature to dry the window from condensation, I assume the condensation will be sorted when the poor old girl doesn't leak aymore when I sort the hood seals). Thought I had better mention the idling thing though.
4) If I then take my foot off the throttle, there is a slight regular popping noise from the exhaust, like a backfire but nowhere near that loud, what might be causing that or is that what it is meant to do?
5) The wheelbolts need replacing, (for cosmetic reasons only as the chrome/shiny finish has gone) I have searched on LEC and the internet, but have no idea what size bolts they should be. Can anyone point me in the right direction for that please? It is a 1992 Elan SE Turbo, 15" original alloys, no brake upgrades.
6) What does OEM stand for
7) I did find a Youtube video of how to do the paperclip thing, which I am sure was a link on here, but cannot find it now, as I think that would help understand the issues, where is the link please?
In really really simple terms, what is a turbo wastegate, is it something you unbolt and put a new one on/spray some WD40 on and it's fixed, or a major headache?
9) A lambda sensor (O2) sounds like it detects the ammount of oxygen in the exhaust, if the fault code shows that there is a problem with the sensor, is that an easy fix as well, or might the sensor be ok but there is a problem with the fuel mixture?
Hope I haven't posted too much in one go, but we all need to learn so please go easy on me, albeit feel free to take the p**s as I am always up for a good laugh and what goes around, comes around
Many thanks for your time and patience reading this and I look forward to any replies.

[wayne]

Hi all, I am sure that some of this will cause a chuckle or two whilst reading for those of you more mechanically minded than me, (That being the majority of the developed world and some parts of Mansfield too!) but having now got my restored Elan M100 SE Turbo on the road, and loving the way it drives, I have a few qustions, having read loads of posts on here but not understanding a lot of them.
Now I am no mechanic, never have been, never will be, so all of the mechanical stuff was done by my local, trusted garage, but I would like to learn the basics, so that I understand what I am talking about. On saying that, I am familiar with the principals of an engine (suck squeeze bang blow) but I would like to run a few bits by you to put my mind at rest or point me in the right direction if I may.
1) Accelerating in the Elan, the turbo boost guage goes about 3/4 of the way up then when I put the clutch out it drops back to the bottom (I should say here I have never owned a turbo charged car before). Is that about right, what it should do? (It certainly does accelerate very well)
2) Having accelerated as 1 above, occasionally there feels what I can only describe as a slight mis-fire, hardly noticeable, but as though it is struggling to accelerate smoothly. What might be the cause of that?
3) Having accelerated as 1 above, the engine management light comes on more often than not, then after about 5 minutes of steady driving goes out until the next time I accelerate rapidly, my limited knowledge makes me think this means the engine is running too rich, or am I way off the mark? (It also comes on if I run the car idling up to running temperature to dry the window from condensation, I assume the condensation will be sorted when the poor old girl doesn't leak aymore when I sort the hood seals). Thought I had better mention the idling thing though.
4) If I then take my foot off the throttle, there is a slight regular popping noise from the exhaust, like a backfire but nowhere near that loud, what might be causing that or is that what it is meant to do?
5) The wheelbolts need replacing, (for cosmetic reasons only as the chrome/shiny finish has gone) I have searched on LEC and the internet, but have no idea what size bolts they should be. Can anyone point me in the right direction for that please? It is a 1992 Elan SE Turbo, 15" original alloys, no brake upgrades.
6) What does OEM stand for
7) I did find a Youtube video of how to do the paperclip thing, which I am sure was a link on here, but cannot find it now, as I think that would help understand the issues, where is the link please?
In really really simple terms, what is a turbo wastegate, is it something you unbolt and put a new one on/spray some WD40 on and it's fixed, or a major headache?
9) A lambda sensor (O2) sounds like it detects the ammount of oxygen in the exhaust, if the fault code shows that there is a problem with the sensor, is that an easy fix as well, or might the sensor be ok but there is a problem with the fuel mixture?
Hope I haven't posted too much in one go, but we all need to learn so please go easy on me, albeit feel free to take the p**s as I am always up for a good laugh and what goes around, comes around
Many thanks for your time and patience reading this and I look forward to any replies.

Pleased to see that you are finally enjoying driving the car. Thought I'd add a few short replies untill the experts come along

1. I think this is normal and nothing to worry about.

2. Could be alot of things. possibly plugs, leads, coils etc. Best wait for a profesional to reply.

3. Boost creep maybe? does the car have a large bore exhaust? ie non standard? or maybe a manual boost controler? Try the paper clip test...
check the wiki for the fault codes

4. Err.... normal in my case large bore exhaust fitted by a previous owner.

5. no comment at this time of the morning / evening....

6. OEM. Origional equipment manufacturer oem

7. Not sure where thi youtube vid is at. On my LHD car the plug is behind the glove box. will let someone else with more time available elaborate on this one.

8. read the wiki here

9. could be either. In my oppinion I would change the sensor first and then see if this fixed the problem.

Sorry I don't have time to give better answers. Just thought I'd get the ball rolling.... Hopefully better answers from some of the forum experts will be along soon.

Regards

Wayne

[tweetdriver63]

Just to reply to the first one, and then there's some relationship to the next couple.

The stock setup should only boost to .5 bar (the 1/2way mark) on the gauge. If it's going higher than that, either there's a problem, or more likely, there's an upgraded chip or a manual boost controller.

My car has an Everest chip, and stock exhaust. The boost will get up to .9 bar (if I really push it), as the chip is supposed to allow. I find that if I do that too soon (the car not all the way to operating temp), I will do a little bucking, which sounds like you describe. Usually it doesn't do that if I'm smooth about it and have the car warmed up all the way first.

From what I've read, if the car has a larger bore exhaust system on it, that can cause what's known as "boost creep." You can read about that in the Wiki. I'm not an expert on it, but it could explain the boost going up to 3/4 if you don't have a chip or MBC.

I think maybe good tune-up items (plugs, wires, etc) could help the missing/bucking on high boost. Also could be an issue with one or more injectors.

There's all my totally non-expert thoughts.

When all is working, this car does rocket pretty well, specially if you've got a chip that allows you more boost. The only ones to use are the mountain chips (link at the top of the page).

[dapinky]

The wheel bolts are a 'standard' Vauxhall type - M12 x 1.5 with a 60 degree tapered head.....

That said, there are 2 types used on elans - SE/NA cars have a 19mm head (hence 19mm wheelnut spanner in the boot) and S2 uses a 17mm headed one (the rest of the bolt is identical, including the tapered 'seat', but using a narrower spanner is less likely to scratch the painted wheels).

Personally, I bought something like these on ebay, and remember to carry a 17mm socket/swivel bar in the boot, otherwise if you get a flat, the standard wrench wont fit!

Alternatively (or adittionally!) you may consider something like these - also available in silver

[theelanman]

Alternatively (or adittionally!) you may consider something like these - also available in silver

yup...I went that way.....
simple....cheap....and very effective.....

cheaper than 16 new bolts....

[Faraday]

Many thanks for the swift replies. A new set of wheel bolts will be on my Xmas list. I have found the Youtube video of the paperclip on the Wiki, done that this afternoon and it is code 41 the cam angle sensor, which I understand that the HES is the most likely culprit so have got one of those coming for £20. Have been reading up on the wastegate, thanks, understand it a bit more now, will not touch that until the HES is fitted and see how she runs. I am assuming that as 41 was the only code showing then the lambda sensor is probably ok, so time will tell. Will no doubt be posting more if the HES does not cure it all.

[harvey]

Hi all I am also a newbie and experiencing simalar problems with my se turbo, and are currently awaiting new ignition parts to fit and see if this cures the problem.

please tell me if I am wrong but i thought i had read somewhere that it was only the later american models(s2) that had the lambda sensor fitted???

[Andy_J]

The UK Spec SE did not have an O2 sensor as standard.

The only UK SE's with an O2 sensor would have been retro fitted and would also have had the ECU replaced.

[epipete]

The UK Spec SE did not have an O2 sensor as standard.

The only UK SE's with an O2 sensor would have been retro fitted and would also have had the ECU replaced.

And the simple check for the sensor is to look at the turbo on the top left hand side, if there is a large rusted bung then you ain't got one, on the other hand if you have a component with wire leaving it to a plug near the red boost unit then you have, which though not conclusive would suggest that you have a complete upgraded wire supply to the ECU and that the Chip has also been upgraded (but to what?). This might also explain why you have more boost than the stock .5bar but doesn't explain, if changed why you have less than the upgraded chip should supply!

[Faraday]

Thanks Epipete, like I said I am no mechanic, so first thing tomorrow will have a look for a rusty bung, (which I fully expect to find) I assumed (wrongly ) that as there was a code for a lambda sensor on the faults list, then my car must have one!

[epipete]

Nay problems Faraday, enjoy your car.

Many of us are lacking in the mechanical department but routing through the forum does provide good information and helps to pass the hours, how sad!

OEM = Original Equipment Manufactures, oh, and I think the phrase 'Suck, squeeze, bang, blow' refers to the jet engine rather than our poor turbo jobby, mind you if you have a ramjet under the bonnet you will enjoy the car even if its for a very short time!

[tweetdriver63]

This might also explain why you have more boost than the stock .5bar but doesn't explain, if changed why you have less than the upgraded chip should supply!

As I recall, there were/are more than one level of boost on different Mountain chips. The Everest takes you to .9 bar, but the Kilimanjaro only takes it to .8 bar. I thought there used to be one that went just to .65, but I could be mistaken. Anyway, if he's seeing about 3/4 on the boost guage, he could have a Kilimanjaro chip taking it to .8 (pretty dang close to 3/4).

Just a thought.

[rip]

This might also explain why you have more boost than the stock .5bar but doesn't explain, if changed why you have less than the upgraded chip should supply!

As I recall, there were/are more than one level of boost on different Mountain chips. The Everest takes you to .9 bar, but the Kilimanjaro only takes it to .8 bar. I thought there used to be one that went just to .65, but I could be mistaken. Anyway, if he's seeing about 3/4 on the boost guage, he could have a Kilimanjaro chip taking it to .8 (pretty dang close to 3/4).

Just a thought.

The stock chip is 0.65 bar, not 0.5. Mountain switcher provides 0.95 (Elysium), 0.9 (Everest), 0.8 (Kilimanjaro), 0.65 (standard) & I believe also 0.4 (Garage mode). Limp home mode is also 0.4 bar.
The in-car boost gauge is not accurate, especially if the connection to the transducer is a bit ropey. It should only be used as a rough guide so 0.65 could easily read anywhere between 0.5 & 0.75.

[theelanman]

please tell me if I am wrong but i thought i had read somewhere that it was only the later american models(s2) that had the lambda sensor fitted???

as Andy_J said...no SE had an O2 sensor unless retro fitted....
all S2 models DID have the O2 sensor due to changes in the emission laws......Im sure that none of the S2 versions made it to the US though........

I think (but could be wrong) the US and euro versions were fitted with cats......but no O2 sensor ..not having either I could most definately be wrong.......

[ESM]

The standard car boosts to 0.65bar, with respect to add-on chips the Kilimanjaro went to 0.8bar, the Everest to 0.9bar and the Elysium to 0.95bar. There shouldn't be any hesitations/bucking with any of them really....

The S2 version of the Elan has the lambda sensor as standard, as have SEs that were exported to countries where emission regulations required it. I have seen a UK registered SE that had one as original equipment - but only one (it was one of the last of SEs produced).

Get the trouble code...

[Brit-Car-Nut]

please tell me if I am wrong but i thought i had read somewhere that it was only the later american models(s2) that had the lambda sensor fitted???

I think (but could be wrong) the US and euro versions were fitted with cats......but no O2 sensor ..not having either I could most definately be wrong.......

All US / FED SEs have a pre-cat, main cat and an O2 sensor. California versions have an EGR sensor as well.

[Faraday]

Thanks to Epipete for pointing out the simple test to see if I have a lambda sensor, (I like to keep things simple, it works for me ). Having looked under the bonnet for about a nanosecond in daylight this morning the rusty bung on the turbo is staring me in the face, that suggested to me that a) it does not have a sensor and b) the car has not been upgraded in the chip department (be that Everest, Mountain or McCain crinkle cut) so, as the sun was out, I took the afternoon off work and took her for a blast and saw (when not watching the road or checking for camera vans) that the turbo (imo) went up to about 0.65, which having now logged on here and read the reply from RIP, (many thanks) that seems to suggest that it is a standard chip that is still there and probably working just fine. Many thanks again for all of the replies, will see how it goes with the replacement HES which, if it does not sound too technical, I might have a bash at doing myself, if that is the case, watch this space for questions on how to rectify the damage I have caused!

[GeoffSmith]

I might have a bash at doing myself

http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Hall_Effect_Sensor

[epipete]

....... which I understand that the HES is the most likely culprit so have got one of those coming for £20.

Seems a good price, where did you order this from?

[theelanman]

....... which I understand that the HES is the most likely culprit so have got one of those coming for £20.

Seems a good price, where did you order this from?

lotus after sales list....
if you look at the list there are hundreds left and at £19~20 IIRC.....its a basic brush replacement in the CAS.....
order through lotus and then collect from your local dealer...
or it may now just be ask your local dealer....