Headlamp motor fix for free

[valimar]

Hi everybody,
I just rebuild both headlamp motors and I think I have some interesting tips for all of you who decide to do the job! I follow the thorough explanation of Brian Barham and Andy Yim but I found out that there is cheap and easy way to do it and in case you don’t need to replace the plastic gears you don’t need to spend any penny!
First about the left side motor removal: After unscrewing the 2 bolts of the motor housing you don’t need to remove the armature shaft to take out the gear assembly! Just lift the motor housing about 4mm and turning the gear shaft a little it will come out. This way you don’t need to worry about brushes and springs.
Second solution: After removing and cleaning the granular filling (cane sugar like) you just get one silicone glue stik of Ø 11mm (used in glue guns) and cut 3 pieces by +-10mm long. This silicone pins are very strong and fit perfectly in de cavity inside the plastic hub. And it works brilliant.
Any doubts, just drop me a line!
Rodrigo

[Doug]

interesting?!

glue gun slugs -- wonder what their melting point is though?? It could get hot in the bonnet in the heat of Summer -- I'd think if the melting point is not real high then your glue could liquify -- I guess you would know if the headlight stopped popping up !!

[dapinky]

I'd think if the melting point is not real high then your glue could liquify -- I guess you would know if the headlight stopped popping up !!

It'd be a bit of a bugger to get the bits out once it cooled down again and stuck the lot together!

[valimar]

Hi Doug,
Before I install it I did some research and silicone stiks only melt above 180 degrees celsius! I suppose you cannot bake an egg above the motor pods
Besides I test it strength with a vise and hammer and believe me this stiks can have a lot even at an higher temperature! Don't forget that the pods are placed close to the wheel housing where the temperature is not that high!
In a few months time I'll know better if it works!
Cheers Rodrigo

[Doug]

well if the diameter is correct then I do agree this is a cheap readily available fix!

I have worked with glue guns recently (kids and all) and even when the glue dries it is still in a mass that can be scraped loose if needed, I believe. The way to test for yourself would be to get some and put it in the oven at a slowly rising temp until is liquifies -- point the infrared temp sensor (we all have them for tire and other part temp taking, right?!) at it while it is warming up and then verify its melting point.

[Ekapol]

Very good idea. Hope I don't have to give it a try

Recently I found some wood stick at local craft store with close enough diameter. Cut those to length and they should work too.

Do we have the measurement figures somewhere?

[valimar]

Tha diameter of the stiks is exactly 11,5mm. About the length I cannot check it anymore but if I recall good must be about 10mm. What the wood concerns i'm afraid it doesn't have enough flexibility!

[valimar]

For all Skeptics among you,
A few words just to say that after more than 9 years the headlamps motor fix still works a treat!!!
Even driving in South Spain with temperatures above 40º Celcius, no problem at all!
Cheers, Rodrigo

[epipete]

Well done Rodrigo

As I am currently 'doing' my lamps I like this idea, and I also agree about loosening the motor case to allow the gear out better ('scuse my bad grammer)

Pete

[epipete]

This be them, I knew I had some in the garage somewhere and all this just to save a tenner

[dapinky]

Pete,

I've got a set (or 2!) of the 'proper' ones here - I've just measured them and you need to cut your sticks to 11.5mm length (they are 12.1mm diameter, but i'm sure the sticks are probably close enough!)

[epipete]

Cheers Dave, perchance I actually have a set of the bone fide little perishers that I got from Wayne earlier in the year; funnily enough though, I have the glue sticks but no gun and have therefore have being wondering what to do with the sticks I'll have to try them out just for the joy of feeling I've made a small saving, I guess I shall never escape from being a penny pinching public servant!

[dapinky]

Pete,

Years of training with other peoples money means that you can now manage a meagre pension without supervision

[epipete]

Meagre!!! Have you been speaking to my Bank Manager? Nevertheless, as I type, the news is about a new Civil Service strike predicated by a 20% reduction in spending power over 7yrs - the backbone of my decision, bank the inflation proof pension before they attack that as well!

[epipete]

I did post elsewhere a while back that the Glue 'pellets' failed for me, turned to mush which set hard - when I dismantled the motors I had to use boiling water to clean the wretched remnants off. I only mention it because Piperman is experiencing issues and this is just a warning.

[peteoddcar]

Heat soak underhood temps are very high on a Turbo Elan - that's why they needed to fit the weird( at the time ) electric circulation pump, which comes on when the fan is running at key off.
It's well worth testing this device by the way !
I would not use glue sticks personally.

[John_W]

Since this is about the most recent headlight motor fix thread, I thought I'd add some photos from my recent headlight rebuild.

My lights had developed a bit of a wobble, as shown by reflections off road signs, and closed with a bit of a clatter, so I decided that it was time for a strip down to fit the new plastic dowels I had bought from Alan Betts years ago and Geoff's stainless steel springs and fastenings kit; also to check the tightness of all the universal joints as described by Alan Head.

I took the pods off, and de-rusted and painted the bezels, fitted Geoff's kit (very comprehensive) and found all u/js were firmly attached. The lights still wobbled, so it was off with the wheel arch liners (so easy after fitting the stainless steel bolt kit a few years ago) and off with the light motors. The motors unbolted very easily, and the RHS one was a doddle to strip down and rebuild. The LHS one needed some brute force and wiggling in a vice to get the nylon gear wheel out, as it is a mirror image of the RHS one and the lip on the gear wheel is under the pinion gear which prevents it simply being lifted out.

I expected to find the "Parmesan cheese" described by others as the only remnants of the old plastic dowels, however my dowels were all intact albeit distorted. The RHS ones were oval, and the LHS ones were kidney-shaped. See photos.

I inserted the new dowels, greased and reassembled everything and refitted the wheel arch liners. After a moment's concern caused by Sod's Law dictating that this moment should be chosen by the bulkhead headlight control module to malfunction (first time ever - solved in the traditional way by thumping it), the headlights went up and down with a pleasingly quiet and smooth action, and there is now no vibration of the headlights off road signs.

All in all, a quick and satisfying fix.

John

[Rambo]

Well done John. Another step forward for your Stelvio adventure

PS keep those dowels in case Mags' snoring gets too loud after a few glasses of Barolo

[Stef]

Blipi is proudly back on the road again!

However, one of her still to fix issues is the passenger side headlamp.

Are these fix kit still available?

[par]

Wayne was selling these on Ebay the other week, might be worth a look to see if they are still listed.