ESM Chips - Information & Help

[Enright]

Alan,

Please excuse me if you've answered this somewhere else in this thread already, but does this setup cover S2's too?

As you might remember I was hoping to switch to closed-loop control, and have already earmarked an O2 sensor which I should be picking up from Sy at Donington (please don't forget it Sy )!

Being as this should be a straight bolt-in it should only remain for me to unplug the CO pot, put an S2 chip in and see if it works.

So if your new setup is switchable between SE's and S2's then it will do me perfectly and I'd like to sign up for one.

You'll notice on my site I have both open loop (9929/9930) and closed loop (1499/9949) versions of the switcher. I could mix 9929 (banks 0-7) and 1499 (banks 9-15) programs instead if you prefer.

Alan that sounds ideal.
1) Could you fry it up in time for Donington?
2) If so, is there a way of placing a special order through your site?

Edit - I think I've just seen the answer to 2 on your site, and I'll place an order anyway. So if you can produce it in time for me to collect there, that will be fine. Otherwise I don't mind waiting.

[dapinky]

Alan,

I see that I've been promoted up the list a bit!

How do you want me to pay you?

Paypal now? cheque at Donny? Just let me know and you'll have it!

[ESM]

Alan that sounds ideal.
1) Could you fry it up in time for Donington?
2) If so, is there a way of placing a special order through your site?

Edit - I think I've just seen the answer to 2 on your site, and I'll place an order anyway. So if you can produce it in time for me to collect there, that will be fine. Otherwise I don't mind waiting.

No problems, I'll have the frier with me at Donington.

[ESM]

Before I send out any more V5 stuff I'd like the people on the list me know if they have the old upgrade or not.

I reckon it would be better if the people who don't already have one of the old boards get a single board with everything built in rather than two connected together. I know this one doesn't need lumps cut out of the case! I've got a few on the way.

I've also got some ideas about connecting the upgrade board remotely so that it won't require any case modification either but I'm still working on that one.

[nissias]

Got Alans fantastic switcher kit today, Niceeee

Once u have the ECM out remove the box shape access panel and this part will not fit back on as the switcher adaptor is slightly more bulky. The switcher adaptor fits in to were ESM old chip is, so u have to remove that 1st but to get the adaptor to fit u will have to notch the main cover (by about 5mm) U'll understand more from the pic's below. I've also place the digital switcher in the spare slot next to the hazard switch

I have the A/C switch there
Do you know if Alan's switcher can be fitted below the clock where there is a square space available I think? Otherwise I will have to keep the switcher in the glovebox

[ESM]

Actually i fitted the switcher adaptor the other way 1st time round but the engine wouldn't start and the fuel pump was continuously on

For future reference you want to make sure the notch at one end of the chip is at the same end as the notch in the socket into which it fits.

I'm at Cadwell this saturday, thinking of putting the access panel back on and just cut a square section for the chip and maybe stick something over it

I've run a PROM emulator (which sits at the end of a ribbon cable in the glove box) for more than a year an I have had to keep the the end off the case too. I put the plastic insert and the screws back in, so the case is stable, and I haven't had any problems. You can cover it up if you want but its not a big deal if you don't.

[Enright]

That's bizarre - there should be a couple of similar sized switch blanks there!

That's an ideal place to situate it.
I'll probably do the same.

[dapinky]

Before I send out any more V5 stuff I'd like the people on the list me know if they have the old upgrade or not.

I reckon it would be better if the people who don't already have one of the old boards get a single board with everything built in rather than two connected together. I know this one doesn't need lumps cut out of the case! I've got a few on the way.

Alan,
I've just got a 'standard' ECU set-up with nowt extra on it , so I'll need 'the works' in whatever format you think best for a muppet to be able to fit ('cos if it looks too complicated, I'm getting smiffy to do it - i'm okay with a spanner and a big hammer, but fidly things aren't really my bag)

[GeoffSmith]

I've run a PROM emulator (which sits at the end of a ribbon cable in the glove box) for more than a year an I have had to keep the the end off the case too. I put the plastic insert and the screws back in, so the case is stable, and I haven't had any problems. You can cover it up if you want but its not a big deal if you don't.

Likewise with my prototype remote and no problems

That's bizarre - there should be a couple of similar sized switch blanks there!

I agree. I've just been looking behind the blanks and there is a socket behind the A/C blank but the other two are open so, if anything, it will probably be easier.

I'm getting smiffy to do

No problem Dave. Free service to BOLLECKS.

[nickb]

Alan, my car is a totaly standard S2.

Thanks

Nick

[nissias]

btw when fitting the switcher on. We fit the AMD chip and the everest chip on the same place? Do they both go on the switcher on top of the other or something? A photo from the side would help

[ESM]

Nissias,

Here it is step by step:

1) Remove the ECU from the car following the usual upgrade instructions on my site
2) Remove the old upgrade board from the ECU.
3) Remove the SST chip from the old upgrade board - you don't need it any more
4) Insert the new switcher board into the vacant socket - make sure the notch in the socket and the notch on the AMD chip are on the same side
5) 'Modify' the casing of the ECU to allow the assembly to fit back into the slot in the ECU (see Monty's picture).
6) Plug ribbon cable into board
7) Reinstall daughterboard assembly into ECU
8) The lid won't fit back on but replace the screws and the plastic end piece.
9) Reinstall ECU into car
10) Plug switcher onto ribbon cable

[ESM]

For the brave it should be possible to solder the switcher upgrade directly into the memcal (space permitting) which would probably remove the need for case modification.

Geoff, did you put a socket into your memcal?

[GeoffSmith]

Geoff, did you put a socket into your memcal?

Yes, why do you ask (says he sitting on his arse with a blank expression ) or do I have to read earlier posts?

[nissias]

Nissias,

Here it is step by step:

1) Remove the ECU from the car following the usual upgrade instructions on my site
2) Remove the old upgrade board from the ECU.
3) Remove the SST chip from the old upgrade board - you don't need it any more
4) Insert the new switcher board into the vacant socket - make sure the notch in the socket and the notch on the AMD chip are on the same side
5) 'Modify' the casing of the ECU to allow the assembly to fit back into the slot in the ECU (see Monty's picture).
6) Plug ribbon cable into board
7) Reinstall daughterboard assembly into ECU
The lid won't fit back on but replace the screws and the plastic end piece.
9) Reinstall ECU into car
10) Plug switcher onto ribbon cable

[ESM]

yes, yes and yes.

[GeoffSmith]

yes, yes and yes.

Was that to me or NiceArse?

[GeoffSmith]

That's bizarre - there should be a couple of similar sized switch blanks there!

I agree. I've just been looking behind the blanks and there is a socket behind the A/C blank but the other two are open so, if anything, it will probably be easier.

[Enright]

For the brave it should be possible to solder the switcher upgrade directly into the memcal (space permitting) which would probably remove the need for case modification.

Cor, that sounds a bit too brave for me!

However I would be prepared to mod my casing a la Monty.

Here's a question though:
To make the end bit fit, could you get away with cutting a slot like the green line, or would you have to go for the red one?
In fact if you were being a bit clever and had to do the red one, could you cut it from the RHS until you got to the dotted bit, and then follow the yellow one?
Sorry if that sounds a bit complex , but hopefully the pic explains it

[GeoffSmith]

I think you'd have to go for the red or red/yellow lines as the memory seems to sit quite proud. I'd recommend that you insulate around the memory to make sure you don't short any of the pins out.