Incontinence - PAS pump leaking

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Postby paulwatkins » Sat 03.03.2007, 17:30

geoffsmith wrote:Can anyone tell me how to activate the inertia switch please?


Go into the battery compartment, and you'll see a box about 4x3x3" with a switch on the top of it. IIRC you push the switch down and when you finish, pull it back up.

Simple!
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Postby GeoffSmith » Sat 03.03.2007, 17:32

Thanks Dave, much appreciated.

Clemo (and now Paul) gave me the right answer.

Then I found it was easier to whip out the fuel pump fuze (once I found it - number 3 is top row, third from front NOT first column third down).

Then I remembered that the alarm disables the fuel pump every time you stop so all I had to do was crank the engine. :bonk:

More confirmation that adrenaline is brown and smelly later!
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Postby GeoffSmith » Sat 03.03.2007, 18:43

Luckily, I was able to find my old brake spanner......
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Postby GeoffSmith » Sat 03.03.2007, 19:08

Well, after completing the first dirty job on the car (you should try it Gary, it's far more satisfying than getting someone else to do it) I was feeling pretty pleased with myself.

I got the PAS filled up and air out of the system as per the manual - turning the car over a few times while turning the wheel, and sure enough the assistance soon became apparent. While it's up on the jack, I thought I'd quickly try to get the lower turbo heatshield bolt undone, so with a 10mm spanner and tube for leverage, heave hoe and BANG! It was at this moment, I realised that adreneline was brown and smelly. The whole car shifted and I could hear my heartbeat echoing off the garage walls.

I'd increased the height of the jack under the sill (what a crap system) to get better access to the steering rack and turning the wheel had obviously shifted the jack and the small extra movement when I wrenched the heatshield bolt had caused the whole lot to slip. Furtunately the axle stand had done its job but the compression of the suspension let it go down uncomfortably far. If it hadn't, the wheel was still under the sill ready to stop it hitting the deck but thankfully it didn't and no damage was done. :oops:

I could have kicked (killed?) myself, as normally, whenever I work under a jacked car, I check everything (not just the main jack but the fallback measures I always use) making sure they are still in place every time I get myself under the car. This time, the euphorea of sorting the PAS and the sudden thought to break the heatshield bolt had got my bedy running ahead of my brain and I nearly had a major disaster. If you read this, please remember it for the next time you're working on your car.

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Postby paulwatkins » Sat 03.03.2007, 20:46

Geoff,
I'm not 100% sure (maybe someone else can confirm this) but I think the pas bleeding procedure should be done with the wheels on the deck so that there is resistance in the system?!?!? :?

In the manual, it doesnt say to keep it on the floor, but it also doesnt say to jack it up.....which I'm thinking if it is a requirement to do so, it would say so.

I may be wrong, Geoff, but hopefully someone can confirm, or shoot me down (again!) :D
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Postby GeoffSmith » Sat 03.03.2007, 21:43

Paul,

Thanks for that. I left one side up with the wheel off so I could check for leaks easier. There was enough resistance with the one wheel on the floor to bleed it effectively (I'm pretty sure as it was damned difficult to turn the wheel to start and the fluid level went down significantly) but in any case, I did it again once it was down on the ground.

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