lotuska wrote:Or maybe knock up something myself to do it...I've heard that you don't need to use compressed air to hold the valves in place, some rope fed down the sprak plug hole would do...obviously need to keep hold of one end!!.
Mark, sticking a bit of rope down the plug hole is one of the 'recognised bodges' that usually works (but not as well as the compressed air!)
The potential problems with that technique are that you need a fair length of thinish rope which is pliable enough to fill up the cylinder (a long and boring job - but i've done it so i know it works!). Its worth using natural fibre rope if you can, and soak it in oil first.
If it's too thin, then it can get caught between the valve and seat.
If you go for it, then set the cylinder to 90 degrees or so , feed the rope in, and when it feels full, turn the engine by hand to hold the valves in place as the piston rises.
another potential problem is that it is possible (but not too likely) that the valve you are working on can drop a few mm because the rope is not acting on that valve as squarely as the others (does that make sense?.....well, i know what i mean

), in which case, when it comes to reassembly, unless you put the pressure squarely on the valve spring cap, it can be fiddly to get the collets back in - it all depends on the tool you use, hopefully there is enough clearance to pull the valve up a bit when the spring is tensioned to allow the collets to drop into their grooves.
The tool i used for mine and Pauls engines i made up out of a piece of thick-walled hollow tube, a couple of washers an angle grinder and a MIG welder! it took about 20 minutes, and worked alright for us! I'm sure that a suitable tool can be made for the method you want to use.
Good luck!