Lower Temp Thermostat

[Ekapol]

I talked to Marie a bit yesterday. She's running a lower temp thermostat and it sounds like a good idea to me.

Browsing Rodney's Website, I might want to replace the thermostat with a lower temp, so the fan will kick in at around 1/2 mark instead of 3/4 mark on the gauge. Buy me some time with a bit more peace of mind.

Under Engine link on his website.

Stant 180° Thermostat
Low Temp Radiator Fan Switch

Do you also have that? What do you think?

[algirdas]

Dear Ekapol:

I could be wrong on this, but the fan switch alone will control the fans and you will be able to get them to cut in sooner with only the switch from Rodney. I will be doing that shortly as soon as I get my Samco hoses (yeah, I know, "what's going on with that?" Trust me, I'm checking in with James at Amber periodically).

I may change the thermostat just as a precautionary measure just because it is old and I have no record of it ever having been changed.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[GeoffSmith]

Ekapol,

The target idle does not drop all the way down to 950RPM until the coolant temperature reaches 80°C = 176°F. My interpretation is that the ECU does not consider the engine to have reached operating temperature and may affect e.g. A/F ratio and maximum boost. I think you run the risk of going into and out of a non-optimum state with a low temperature 'stat, but how much and what effect it will have, I do not know. ESM should be able to help though.

Geoff

[Ekapol]

I might need just the fan switch to make it kicks in a little sooner. And keep the thermostat as is

[algirdas]

Dear Ekapol:

Geoff has a good point. On fuel injected cars it is probably better NOT to mess with the thermostat setting since it could throw off fuel calibration and a host of other engine metrics.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[Ekapol]

A new fan switch should be fine correct?

[algirdas]

Dear Ekapol:

The new fan switch should not cause any problems. All it should do is reduce the "upper limit" of the engine's operating range. Since the fans cool the engine down to the one-quarter mark as it is, all the new fan switch does is kick the fans in sooner rather than letting the engine heat way up and then cool it down. In any case, the engine will be at or above the specified operating temperature when all this takes place and the ECU should be able to adjust for it normally.

But I am not the best when it comes to this sort of stuff.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[kmckmc]

Hi,

So, which of the Rodney's Rad. Fan switch should I get ( keeping the stock thermostat)?

http://www.rodneydickman.com/retail_new.html

195° / 185° Fan Switch OR

210 ° / 200 ° Fan Switch

Please advise.

The installation is very simple, right? What else do I need to buy?



Cheers,

[algirdas]

Dear Kmckmc:

This week I will be installing Rodney's 180-190 switch along with a new Stant 180 degree thermostat. To play it safe, pick up a new pigtail for the switch in case yours is corroded or the plastic breaks while taking it off. They are really cheap and good to have laying around just in case.


Sincerely,

Algirdas

[nitroman]

KmcKmc, I've got the 195° / 185° Fan Switch in now. See post here... http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6707&start=100 Will try the other by this weekend when I acquire a 21mm-deep socket, as installing by wrench is a drag.

[nitroman]

Final report sirs (also Lords, Earls, Knights, Duchesess, Dukes, and Squires):

The 210° / 200° Fan Switch turns the fans on at just a tad over the 1/2 mark, then cools to exactly between 1/2 & 1/4. I'd say this would be the one to use as the duration the fans are running to acheive this result is MUCH shorter than the cooling period of the 195° / 185° Fan Switch; which must labor very hard to get temps well below 1/4. It all makes sense as a hotter object is more thermally able to shed heat to a gas many degrees colder. Just physics lads.

I'd say this thermal-switch will also extend the life of the electric fans as well, being that the fans won't be on near as much. Anywho, it's the one I'm sticking with.

Going to the 3/4 mark always made me uneasy, but I can live with a tweek over half.

[Ekapol]

The 210° / 200° Fan Switch turns the fans on at just a tad over the 1/2 mark, then cools to exactly between 1/2 & 1/4.

That would be the one I should get then. Still that I haven't order it so far

Been doing some other tiny mods, also again that I've just said "hello" to my right door's innards.

Window stop caught some cables in there, motor is still, after all, very healthy

Did you get a new thermostat as well?

[Enright]

This looks like a rather good idea to me.
I've always been a bit nervous that the "safety net" at 3/4 is a bit too high, so I'll be trying one.

There doesn't seem to be much advantage to doing a group buy because the price is only $19.00 each plus $3.50 for shipping.
(If you order 10 off then the price each stays the same, but shipping comes down to $1.75 each - however that will soon be eaten up this side of the pond in re-distribution costs)

[nitroman]

Naw, the standard 180-stat is great, keeps things below 1/4 on the dial.

Consider that my other turbo car (a 1994 Mercury Capri XR2) had a 195-stat as OE. I put in a 160-stat & the damn thing was sick as a dog, stumbling all over itself. It was sad. Tried a 180-stat & that was the sweet ticket.

If you go too cold on these computerized machinations of the modern-world those nerd programmers who designed your car's 'brain' start telling it something's wrong.

My old 1980 Triumph TR8 with a Holley 4bbl loved to be cold (160 suited it fine); but it didn't know any better.

[Enright]

But Nitroman, despite the title of the thread, further to the subsequent discussion all I'm doing is changing the rad fan switch, and so adding a little more safety to the "safety net".

[ailwyn]

But Nitroman, despite the title of the thread, further to the subsequent discussion all I'm doing is changing the rad fan switch, and so adding a little more safety to the "safety net".

Neil,

I think you need to change the fan switch & thermostat at the same time.

BTW there won't be any additional postage this side of the pond if you hang on to them 'til Stoneleigh

I'll get it started...

Low Temp Fan Switch & Thermostat Group buy

1. Enright
2. Ailwyn
3. Ailwyn

[paulwatkins]

Low Temp Fan Switch & Thermostat Group buy

1. Enright
2. Ailwyn
3. Ailwyn
4. paulwatkins

[dapinky]

1. Enright
2. Ailwyn
3. Ailwyn
4. paulwatkins
5. dapinky

As it's the usual suspects, I'm expecting the next few names to include Gareth and Geoff

[ailwyn]

I would just like to point out that Enright hasn't agreed to sort this yet, and there are still open questions as to whether the 210 or 195 switch without/with lower temp thermostat is the way to go.

A decision needs to be made before anyone agrees to sort a group buy.

My thoughts are this:

Lower temp (195 deg) fan with lower temp thermostat @ 180 deg.

Convince me I'm wrong.....

[Enright]

I don't mind sorting it out and distributing the resulting cache at Stoneleigh.

As for which to choose, I was going to go with Nitroman's suggestion above (of leaving the standard thermostat in, and just going for the 210° switch).

So perhaps the best way to do this is to restart the list but split out the order requirements as follows:

210° fan switch at $19.00 each plus $3.50 Shipping & Handling.
1. Enright
2.

195° fan switch at $24.00 each plus $3.50 Shipping & Handling.
1.

Stant 180° thermostat at $12.50 each plus $4.00 Shipping & Handling.
1.

The Shipping & Handling as stated before will probably come down by 50%, but I have to quote the figures from Rodney Dickman's website.