Possible Coolant Temp problem

[Doug]

What's the next thing to be looking at?

water pump getting bad?
is the coolant full?
air lock in the piping?
corroded radiator?

[GeoffSmith]

The engine coolant temperature will remain at 80-85° as this is set by the thermostat. Redline Water Wetter only increases the thermal capacity of the water (which is reduced by antifreeze) so is able to transport the waste heat away to the radiator more efficiently. In a stock setup, this will actually make the radiator hotter which will disipate more heat and this will cool the engine faster; the nett result is that the thermostat is open for shorter periods.

In a modified system, such as a racing car that the marketing blurb quotes, this would allow you to use a smaller radiator. If the thermostat is fully open, then for a given airflow/radiator temperature, then engine temperature will be ~20°C less. This is the claim that is being made and not that your engine will run cooler. The ECU parameters are based on the correct operating temperature, so if you were to change it, the car may not run at optimum.

Are you sure the temperature is any different now? You have the natural paranoia of having had overheating problems and you are looking for some effect from the Redline.



There may be two reasons why you're not getting >0.65 bar boost - EITHER your TPS is U/S or out of alignment OR you have a light right foot! Maximum boost occurs at maximum throttle and your logs only just go over 50% throttle.

Hope this helps.

Geoff

[Ultimatt]

Geoff,

I noticed that the throttle was showing a reading of not fully open, which is unusual as there were a couple of instances of me having my foot full to the floor on those runs.

The boost gauge also shows about .6 BAR as max boost and is a vacuum repolacement gauge, so more accurate than stock.

How can I test the TPS to see if it functioning properly?

Cheers

Matt

[GeoffSmith]

How can I test the TPS to see if it functioning properly?

Run ES with the ignition on and press the throttle. You should see the TPS voltage value varying from ~0.4 to ~4.0V and the throttle value varying from 0 to 100%.

Geoff

[Ultimatt]

That seems to be working fine. (see attached)

What else could be causing these symptoms when on a run? Pretty sure my foot was to the floor a couple of times on the two test runs.

Matt

[GeoffSmith]

That looks fine Matt. I've had a look at your runs and they don't appear noisy, which might have indicated a bad connection. I'd take it for a spin and make sure your foot is on the floor. Keep your eyes on the road and don't worry about reading the gauge - ES will capture everything.

Geoff

[Ultimatt]

Will do... expect more tomorrow.

You are a star Geoff.

Matt

[Ultimatt]

As it turns out I haven't got a light right foot; But a short right leg

Must be the way I have the seat adjusted but to get foot to the floor is a significant extra toe push, but it does achieve full boost. See attached.

Thanks Geoff. Just got to find a quiet enough strip of road to test it on properly now

Matt

[GeoffSmith]

Glad you got to the bottom of it. Now, how much would a garage/doctor have charged to look at it?

Geoff

[Ultimatt]

Not too sure how much an Orthopaedic surgeon would charge to sort out this short leg of mine.

On a very short acceleration thios afternoon, I managed to spin the front wheels in 2nd gear from the additional power I've been neglecting.

Don't know how often I'll get to use it, but I had some deranged lady in a Hyundai Coupe challenging me at the lights yesterday. I almost felt embarrassed to be entertaining her and that was when I was only working with 55% throttle.