Black s.e. re-shell and chassis

[jimbob]

So Mike, if the oil is slowly draining out whats replacing it !

My theory is, dirt stopping the ball seating properly and what oil there was drains out and can't get back in because the valve is a "dead end" resulting in an air pocket. Which is why the valves are filled before fitting.

[jimbob]

Thanks for that LOTUSKA but I can't seem to open your videos, what format are they in?

[Mike Y]

Hi Jamie,

Nothing replaces the oil, the tappets deflate/semi collapse hence the rattle as they no longer keep the tappet in constant contact/tollerence with the cam. The last Elan I had with 32,000 miles on the clock would after a lay up would start and run smoothly then the rattling would start after being run for a couple of minutes as the cold oil in the engine was not able to enter the hydraulic tappets sufficiently to keep them full it would be noisey then until I either went through the proccess mentioned on my previous post or would gradually become quieter as the oil in the engine got hot and the viscosity became thiner allowing the tappets to refill.

Regards Mike

[lotuska]

JIMBOB the file is a ZIP file with an AVI media file embedded, you need to extract the avi file using something like Winzip or Winrar.

I then use either VLC Media PLayer (which is free) or Normal Microsoft Media Player (but you might have to have the right codec) to play the video.

Hopefully that helps.

[jimbob]

Cheers Lotuska

[jimbob]

Got the front structure built up yesterday, and to my amazment everything fitted unlike the old chassis etc Anyway as usual everything is held up waiting for parts but Im sure I can find something else to do on my next days off.

Enclosed pic of new speaker boxes and carpet to cover them, the boxes came from lotus untrimmed, one of which is now n.l.a. as did the red carpets.

Funny thing, everyone else is cutting out their speaker boxes of modifying them in some way, and I just want them as they left the factory.

[Doug]

Funny thing, everyone else is cutting out their speaker boxes of modifying them in some way, and I just want them as they left the factory.

Well, if you are a true purist, I think Ekapol has the original paper element Elan SH!TE speakers with crumbling pieces Or maybe you can use the OE grilles on the outside with some 21st century technology inside, right?

[ailwyn]

Or maybe you can use the OE grilles on the outside with some 21st century technology inside, right?

I'm slowly replacing my speakers but all of them are going behind the original speaker grills (in the doors anyway as that's as far as I've got).

[Ekapol]

Well, if you are a true purist, I think Ekapol has the original paper element Elan SH!TE speakers with crumbling pieces

Ah yes, those pieces of SH!TE.

Can't help being every time I look at them wondering if they are the first pair on earth or something.

[jimbob]

Off shift this morning so this afternoon I managed to get the speaker boxes and the little filler bit covered, that just leaves the door trims - another day!

And no I won't be putting the original speakers in, that would just be tearing the arse out of things

Got a new coolant bottle the other day "whats it off" asked the guy at the vauxhall dealership, I said "no point in telling you, that will just complicate things, just read the number". "Ahh so you have a nova" he said, I said " no, just give me the price first and I'll tell you what its off"

Also started stripping the rear brake calipers, discs and front hubs etc, needless to say I won't be going to Lotus for the bearings and seals, just round to the local bearing shop, hopefully save a few quid there.

I'm going to do a little research on the net to see if I can find a company who will re-do the yellow passivate coating on the rear calipers. If any of you guys know of a company please let me know.

[jimbob]

Not a lot of constructive stuff happening the last couple of weeks, although I did get my engine and box in today, slight mishap with the turbo though, you guessed it - snapped studs (all of them!). Even heating the turbo's lugs until they were yellow the studs put up a fair fight and 2 snapped flush with the casting. I had thought about drilling and tappping them out myself but will probably go to a machine shop, given a couple of the studs are long, I wouldn't fancy my chances of being 100% straight with the threads.
Same old story at the moment, still waiting for parts.
In case you were wondering, the sump was bashed underneath, new one fitted now.

Some pics enclosed.

[Paul.P]

Hi Jim, wondered where you had got to ?, had the same problem with blacky's turbo !. Your project looks brill, keep the good work up .

[lotuska]

In my experience and reading everyone elses attempt at removing the turbo it seems splitting the nuts rather than trying to undo is the best option (Even if the nuts look in perfect order).

As I said previously I think the nuts are of a type that prevents removal, and could be why the cost so much.

Not that any of this helps now...

[jimbob]

Some more pics taken today........

[jimbob]

Given there may be some issues with front tca availability and the fact they are grossly overpriced Ive decided to retain the originals and give them a good clean up.

What Ive done to the tca's I would not reccomend for anyone who does no have access to a suitable pulse spot welder. This is a very expensive bit of kit and I would not even have considered doing this if it wasn't for the fact I had access to this equipment, bear in mind this is fairly thick steel plate and it takes quite a machine to produce a good quality weld in this material. Sorry for all that - just covering my rear end!

[Doug]

Nice work on those TCAs

[Mike Y]

Bloody hell Jamie thats superb work.

Regards Mike

[dapinky]

Good effort!

I'm going to have a look at my TCAs to see if this is a viable 'repair' for mine now that SWL are unable to supply some stuff.

Out of interest, what guage of steel did you use for the closing plates?

I'm happy with my ability to weld structurally (if not pretty!) so i hope that the main structure of the TCA will cope with it!

Are they originally spot welded, plug welded or seam welded on???

[jimbob]

Good effort!

I'm going to have a look at my TCAs to see if this is a viable 'repair' for mine now that SWL are unable to supply some stuff.

Out of interest, what guage of steel did you use for the closing plates?

I'm happy with my ability to weld structurally (if not pretty!) so i hope that the main structure of the TCA will cope with it!

Are they originally spot welded, plug welded or seam welded on???

This might sound daft, but I didn't actually check what gauge the steel plate was, I just went to the local fabricators I matched up with some plate the same thickness as what came off. With regards to the welding, spot welded up the sides and seam welded at the ends, will be aparent once you remove your tca's and give them a clean up! The tca's are pretty ridgid without the closing plates so no worries there, when you put them in a vice to cut the bottom out of them grip them by the sleeves where the triangulation arm bolts go through.

Another point, might be worth fitting bushes and balljoint after priming but before painting as paintwork will be damaged pressing these in. Also my plan is to pour red oxide primer into one of the holes and fill up the tca, give it a shake and let it drain out (before fitting bushes and b.j.).

[Doug]

(before fitting bushes and b.j.).

that is one understanding wife you've got, Jamie!