PLEASE GUYS...NEED REALY HELP!!!

[Candles]

The earth reference for the coil pack baseplate, intake plenum and head are linked by the black wires. They also seem to be terribly sensitive. They have to be exactly the same 'zero' volts which isn't the same as chassis zero. I had similar problems when I hadn't connected the earth wires properly on the boost-transducer end of the plenum.

So, if the coil pack touches the chassis, the earth voltage is wrong and the ECU gets all messed up...... Technical huh?

Candles.

[*LUCA*]

Ok, thanks Candles, tomorrow I will make a control to the coils.
But now I have uncovered an anomaly. So...WHAT'S THE "DRP INTERVAL"??
If you give a look to my Elanscan's file, at the SECOND TIME, at the moment in wich appears the problem (for example Time 53.5; 54.1; 100.2; 117.5; 127.9; 128.3; ecc. ecc.) and the RPM have a drastic decrease, also the "DRP interval" have a strange change of the values.
Which tie has the two values?

THANKS TO ANYONE THAT CAN HELP ME, NOW ARE 8 MONTHS THAT I FIGHT WITH THIS TROUBLE!!......I CAN'T RESIST STILL A LOT!!!

[GeoffSmith]

Luca,

The ECU only allows the turbo to operate when the coolant temperature is between 60 and 100°C. In your second run, the coolant temperature is not below 100° very often.

I still believe the lack of power is because the engine temperature is too high, most likely because the thermostat is sticking.

Geoff

[*LUCA*]

Ok Geoff, thank you, tomorrow I will check for the thermostat. But...you know something about the "DPR interval"?
Thank you Geoff....

[*LUCA*]

Geoff, can you give a look to the point "Time 53.5; 54.1; 100.2; 117.5; 127.9; 128.3" in the second run?
You can look the misfire that I say...

[*LUCA*]

EHI GUYS.....NO MORE IDEAS???
SOMEONE THINK CAN BE THE FUEL PUMP????

[davidjt]

Luca
I'm no expert, but I'd have thought the overheating theory was pretty easy to test - in UK, normal temperature for the average Elan is no more than one division up on the guage: new owners often worry that the car is running too cold. What are you getting? Do your fans run all the time? There is a temp sender for the guage and a temp sensor for the ECU, next to one another. I recently changed mine and cured a massive overfuelling problem.

You have an exhaust temp sensor that we dont, so is that emissions related? If so, presumably it could have an effect on fueling; is it connected? If it is, will the car run with it disconnected?
The fact that your misfire only occurs after 20 minutes certainly suggests a temperature related problem - electrical faults are notoriously difficult to trace, and it's true a dodgy earth connection can re-appear due to a change in temperature, but the consensus here seems to be that it's your ECU that's cutting the fuel supply. If that's the case, it's either gettting an incorrect reading from somewhere: (replace temp sensors) or the car is overheating: swap thermostat, flush cooling system etc.

Apologies if this is all too obvious, but I can't think of anything else. If you still get nowhere, I'd be tempted to return the car to the factory set-up (i.e. lose the BSV) and go from there.

[ailwyn]

I'd be tempted to return the car to the factory set-up (i.e. lose the BSV) and go from there.

Too many 3 letter abbreviations... I think you mean remove the MBC (Manual Boost Controller). The BSV is needed.

[*LUCA*]

I have tried to remove the MBC, but....the problem don't change and the car became no more funny.....

[Kjeld]

This is a great thread, and why this Board is so important to us (why is it still free?).

Talk about someone who is no expert.... I am probably the least expert. But davidjt's temp reading question makes sense since much of the evidence points to overheating. Sounds like Luca would have verified this, but it is still a fair question. Are the temp readings normal and are the fans behaving normally?

After that, other than a dodgy (I love brit slang!) ground, Luca may be a victim of real bad luck: replacing a part with one that is also bad.

Oh, and btw Luca. I was in Napoli 10 years ago, and I LOVE your city too!

[davidjt]

Oops!

The only other thing that occurs to me is over-boosting, which we know will cause the ECU to cut fuel: assuming the car isn't overheating, I seem to remember that the ECU limits max boost until the engine has warmed up properly; is it possible that the wastegate can't handle the additional boost that becomes available when the engine warms up?

Is your misfire occurring at a specific boost level or at the same number of revs in every gear?

I know even less about elanscan than abbreviations but is it possible for one of our techies to differentiate on the scan between an electrical misfire and a fuel related one? Could a good mechanic tell the difference from the passenger seat? Just thinking aloud - I know what it's like to be on the point of giving up.....but really glad I didn't. I keep being tempted to buy something else, but always pull back because I know whatever it is will be less nimble, less agile, less FUN.

[lotusgirlmarie]

Thats a good question.... I wonder if the turbo is overboosting and the BSV is bleeding off too much boost and not allowing the wastegate to open fully or the wastegate just can't keep up with the boost levels when the car is warm. You can reduce the boost level of the stock turbo by disconnecting the BSV from the turbo and capping off the nipple on the turbo. This will then only allow 6-7PSI or .38-.45bar of boost.
Another rudementry test would be to disconnect the intake pipe that runs to the throttle body. This will mean that the car is now N/A for all intensive purposes. It will be way down on power but if this eliminates the problem then you will know its a turbo related issue. The next step would be to identify what it is. That would lead back to my first suggestion. Also check your ignition timing as if its too advanced the car will freak out whe under boost. Hope this helps.

[*LUCA*]

Ok....thank's to davidjt, Kjeld, ailwyn and the mitic Marie....
Today was another frustrating day, with my sick Elan.
This morning I have checked the earth wire of the coils pack, but without results.
I have controlled the temp and the fans, but all seems ok, the fans worked good. From the gauge they come on at the middle or a little more. from the elanscan the fans come up at 107°.

Good idea from Marie, tomorrow I will try to run in N/A mode, but the problem come up at every rpm, specialy at 1500/2000 when the turbo is off, so....I don't think e wastegate's problem.

My dubt is on a bad work of the fuel pump....

PS...FOR Kjeld...:I WAS IN SAN FRANCISCO THE LAST SUMMER....FANTASTIC, WANT YOU CHANGE YOUR HOUSE WITH MINE? (AND MAY BE....THE ELANS TOOO!)

[*LUCA*]

Ok...my ELAN don't run very well, but during the convalescence I have upgraded somethink:
1) New wheels set (FROM BMW MINI)
2) New kenwood stereo with USB port integrated in the false switch on the dashboard.
3) New window seals (FROM FIAT BRAVO AND VW LUPO)
4) New Bosch AERO-TWIN
5) New home-made gear shift knob with logo on the short lever

photo come soon!!!!

[Enright]

Luca,
I know you say you've changed the CAS, but can you verify that the timing is correct? Please confirm.
If it is a few degrees out, then all of the ECU's calculations will be wrong. This can lead to all sorts of different engine problems and fault codes.

[*LUCA*]

Tank's....tomorrow I can check the timing, may be it's wrong.

[*LUCA*]

Guys...give a look at this:

http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5087


CAN BE THE MAGNETIC PICK-UP THE PROBLEM???

[lotusgirlmarie]

The problem does sound similar........ couldn't hurt to try.

[*LUCA*]

where I can find a new "magnetic pick-up"?

[ratman]

And if the problem would be this one?:
The car is running cold, the engine warms up, the coolant bottle goes in pressure and drips some coolant on the coils or on the ignitor and the car starts to misfire.
Try to take out the rubber gasket on the water bottle cap and turn it inside.

In Italiano: quando il motore si scalda, manda in pressione l’impianto dell’acqua ed, a volte, esce del liquido o del vapore dalla guarnizione del tappo del vaso di espansione e finisce sulle bobine e sul supporto delle bobine. Il supporto (raccogliendo i segnali del CAS) è quello che dice alla centralina a che velocità gira il motore e quindi serve alla centralina motore per gestire sia l’accensione che l’iniezione.
Prova a togliere il tappo, estrarne la guarnizione e girarla. Poi riavvita bene il tappo.