Lotus Elan Central

by **RayD** » Sun 23.12.2007, 12:41

Specky wrote:
There's codes on the side which lets you know this...( SM, SL, SJ or SH )

Most people just read the 10/40 bit think.... that's what I need and go away happy...

Dave, Is it possible to explain which is which and what to look for?

Ray

by **RayD** » Sun 23.12.2007, 14:51

amsoil wrote:
All oils are tested when new; you would be horrified to find out how quickly some that pass can drop out of grade or loose their properties.

Quality oil is called Amsoil, Castrol Edge Motul etc with Mobil 1 realisticly being the minimum standard anyone should consider.

Don't skimp on the oil filter either A quality one is not made by Fram or Halfrauds as far as Im aware.

Amsoil, (sorry I don’t know your name)

Is it possible to list the oils which lose their properties?

Is it possible to identify which oils are quality ones? Apart from being almost alphabetic - which doesn’t say a lot for Valvoline – an ordinary person would be no wiser for reading your list. How does Mobil become a minimum standard, and which oils are above and below it?

I hadn’t heard of Amsoil until this week, and I’ve only vaguely heard of Motul

And filters – how do we start to classify them? Halfords filters are made by Fram.

Was there some confusion earlier with the SAE 60 and multigrade, or do you think it would be crazy to put 0W-60 in a M100?

Thank you
Ray

by **Specky** » Sun 23.12.2007, 16:04

RayD wrote:
Specky wrote:
There's codes on the side which lets you know this...( SM, SL, SJ or SH )

Most people just read the 10/40 bit think.... that's what I need and go away happy...

Dave, Is it possible to explain which is which and what to look for?

Ray

Yep....

But I'll let a proffesional website do it for you...

Clicky

So "S" – SPARK IGNITION

The second letter designated the type and year of the additives

In general The higher the code, the newer the oil. It is generally OK to use a higher letter, however, some oils had detergents while others didn't. If you have an older vehicle that was not designed to handle detergents (to reduce deposits) it may be harmeful to add an oil with detergent in it. Different additives could have a detrimental effect the different materials used for gaskets and seals.

Standards SA to SF are considered obsolete. The current standard is backservicable to these standards.

SG = Service typical of gasoline engines in passenger cars, vans, and light trucks beginning with the 1989 model year

SH = 1994 provides improved control of engine deposits, oxidation and engine wear relative to oils developed for previous categories. Oils meeting API Service Classification SH may be used to replace SG, SG/CC, SF, SF/CC and SE are recommended. (obsolete)

SJ = 1997 SJ may be used where API Service Classifications SH

and earlier have been recommended.

SL = 2001 Service typical of gasoline engines in passenger cars, sport utility vehicles,

vans and light trucks effective July 1, 2001. In addition to a general improvement

in quality, this new standard aims specifically to improve oil volatility,

SM = 2004 In addition to a general improvement in quality, this new standard aims specifically to improve oil volatility, oil life, fuel economy and emissions system compatibility.

Don't forget the API...

So next time you see a named brand on the shelf and think that's cheap...

look a little closer..

TTFN

by **Specky** » Sun 23.12.2007, 16:35

Ray...

It's a sales pitch... :roll:

But just to balance it...

Try their web site...

Try a search on Wiki...(intresting)

I just wonder what happened to the Aviation side of the company... Amsoil AvOil...

TTFN

by **RayD** » Sun 23.12.2007, 17:49

Thanks Dave,

At first glance they seem to signify the most recent upgrades. Presumably they won’t intentionally make oil worse as time goes by, so the later ones will be seen as being better quality.

I imagine if Castrol GTX Magnetec is an SL and they found it already complied with the SM spec or they could add something that would make sure it did, it would get the seal of approval. Or maybe it only applies to newly formulated oils? I’m sure someone will let us know.

I mentioned in the first post, one of the problems with choosing oil for the Elan is it being 18 years old. It’s not certain the newest oils are the best thing for it.

Ray

by **Monty** » Sun 23.12.2007, 21:10

Specky wrote:Before you buy Monty...

check out the Specifications and Approvals

It could be cheap stuff..

Let me try and draw a parallel...

If oil was a Lotus Elan... would you buy it on sight....

or.... would you want to know wether it was an N/A,an SE or an S2... or enquire what optional extras it had... That's the same as oils...

There's codes on the side which lets you know this...( SM, SL, SJ or SH )

Most people just read the 10/40 bit think.... that's what I need and go away happy...

So the next time you see cheap oil... it could be just that..

The worrying bit is where cheap oil palmed off as good stuff...

TTFN

Just had a a look at the Castrol GTX that i got from Asda for topping up, on the tub SAE 10w-40 API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B3 VW 505 00; MB229.1

So it`s an SL but whats the A3/B3 mean

by **RayD** » Sun 23.12.2007, 21:22

It appears to be the European version of the American API SL/CF.

Ray

by **Dico** » Sun 23.12.2007, 21:29

Mobil 0/40 fully synthetic, £19.99 +vat for 4 litres - Costco.

Just bloomin bang it in and stop fretting!!!!! :roll:

Merry Christmas :-)

by **Gazza** » Sun 23.12.2007, 22:43

by **GeoffSmith** » Sun 23.12.2007, 22:45

by **dapinky** » Sun 23.12.2007, 23:14

by **rip** » Mon 24.12.2007, 00:36

Dico wrote:Mobil 0/40 fully synthetic, £19.99 +vat for 4 litres - Costco.

Just bloomin bang it in and stop fretting!!!!!

Merry Christmas

I can do a group buy for Donny for this if anyone is interested.

by **Sy V** » Mon 24.12.2007, 07:05

rip wrote:I can do a group buy for Donny for this if anyone is interested.

Cheers rip - it'll save me doing it. :wink:

by **Gazza** » Mon 24.12.2007, 10:36

Think it was me and Dico last year. So go ahead rip

by **amsoil** » Mon 24.12.2007, 11:17

The Mobil 0w-40 is a stunning price but is unfortunately a weak oil. Its all down to the numbers and the fact that plenty of VI's (viscocity improvers) are necesary in this product. This makes the oil relatively fragile with the VI's being literally chopped up by the rings and broken up by the turbo heat. The oil will then revert back to a thinner state with reduced protection, less film strength and some contaminants. You will need to change this oil frequently to remove the problem which then doesn't make it such a bargin at all. You would be much better of with a 5w-40 or even 10w-40 (not to keen on this one in winter) The 0w-40 should really be for the likes of quads, ATVs, carts and other machines that are likely to be driven hard from go, thrashed for short periods and have regular oil changes.

by **rip** » Mon 24.12.2007, 12:34

Gazza wrote:Think it was me and Dico last year. So go ahead rip

I will need to look at the coffers closer to the time. Willl have a better idea by then.

Jack.

by **Dico** » Mon 24.12.2007, 15:06

amsoil wrote: machines that are likely to be driven hard from go, thrashed for short periods and have regular oil changes.

Suits me then :lol:

I do warm it up a bit though ;-)

by **DeeAitch** » Mon 24.12.2007, 18:40

amsoil wrote:The Mobil 0w-40 is a stunning price but is unfortunately a weak oil. Its all down to the numbers and the fact that plenty of VI's (viscocity improvers) are necesary in this product. This makes the oil relatively fragile with the VI's being literally chopped up by the rings and broken up by the turbo heat. The oil will then revert back to a thinner state with reduced protection, less film strength and some contaminants. You will need to change this oil frequently to remove the problem which then doesn't make it such a bargin at all. You would be much better of with a 5w-40 or even 10w-40 (not to keen on this one in winter) The 0w-40 should really be for the likes of quads, ATVs, carts and other machines that are likely to be driven hard from go, thrashed for short periods and have regular oil changes.

Amsoil, are you saying Mobil (1) 0w-40 is weak or 0w-40 in general? Similarly are you saying Mobil 5w-40 is better or any 5w-40 Synthetic?
I know you have to be guarded in what you can / can't say on a public forum but you need to be more specific. In other words which ferkin oil should I use ?:lol:
A PM will be fine :-D

by **dapinky** » Mon 24.12.2007, 20:36

What's the problem with Mobil 1 changed every 6 months/6000 miles?

Is there any point in paying top dollar for an oil which will last 10K miles if you are on a limited mileage anyway - theoretically, the oil could outlast the cam belt if you only do 1200 miles a year!!!!

by **Specky** » Mon 24.12.2007, 22:13

I'll play devils advocate.. :twisted:

Let’s take a Halfords oil filter...

Is it a quality product?

The key word is "Quality" and what your definition is...

But it would be something like "fit for purpose at a Minimum cost"

IMHO Running your car on the best grade oils won't prolong the life of your car... There are just too many variables in a cars life.

My Volvo has 220,000 miles on it... Runs on Halfords oil and filters.. The engines fine... everything else is tatters... In fact the next owner will be the scrappies...

So the Halfords products have done the job...

Here are a few thoughts thou..

Who lays their car up for 6 months without changing to inhibiting oil?

When was the last time you sampled your engine oil?

If you use the best oils, Fuels and Air filters... why are there oil filters?

DaPinky I think you known the answer to your own question.... :wink:

Even I'm bored now.. :wink:

TTFN

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