Removing the hood from the frame

[Galsia]

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[Galsia]

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[Specky]

Send weet a PM..

he may be able to help...

TTFN

[Steve A]

I went to a place today called "Hoods Galore" he will replace my rear window for £250 plus VAT, this will involve removing the hood from the frame, but it's something there used to doing , it's what they do after all,
they have done quite a few M100's they have even got one waiting to be cleared by the insurance company.
If you take it there before 10am you can pick it up at 5pm.

[Galsia]

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[johnny]

:) I went to a place today called "Hoods Galore" he will replace my rear window for £250 plus VAT, this will involve removing the hood from the frame, but it's something there used to doing , it's what they do after all,
they have done quite a few M100's they have even got one waiting to be cleared by the insurance company.
If you take it there before 10am you can pick it up at 5pm.

FT..

One of my work mates had his done for 70 on his MGF. Cash.

While hood was on car.

Now im gonna dye the hood, im gonna have a chat.

Cant be that much of a bigger job.

[Steve A]

An MGF has a removable/zip out rear window therefore doesn't need the roof taking off which cost the money, its quick an easy .

If you can find someone that will make you a new roof and fit it for £250 plus VAT then good luck, some how I don't think you will.

It all boils down to if you have a decent roof with a knackered window then it worth getting it changed, but if you need a new roof anyway then you need to bite the bullet and buy a new roof and either fit it your self, or pay someone to fit it for you, not cheap.

[Wryka]

I just received my new roof from Trim-tec today. Thay have been having trouble with there website so give them a call and ask for craig he should be able to helpout.
I have taken the old roof off the frame and the only advice so far is to take it slowly and methodically. Don't rush ripping off the old seals as there some small nuts buried in the sealant which would be a right pain to find if the get lost in hasty removal. The elastic straps are in pretty good condition so they may stay on but you do get replacements with the new hood.

Watch this space as a the new one will go on over the week end.

Wryka

[Dave Drury]

Hello all, bought my 1st M100 yesterday and already hit a snag getting the hood to stay down at the back. There is an inch gap from the bottom edge of the rear part of the hood and I'm at a loss as to what is supposed to happen for it to stay down?

It seems obvious that the two bars on the rear of the frame should somehow snap into place and stay rigid but they don't? you can push them back and hold them there and the hood is fine and in place but when you let go they just fold and the hood is a couple od inches away from the shelf??

Help!!

[dermotbell]

There's a discussion here and some piccies on page 2.

[clemo]

hiya all..
i replaced a rear screen on rogerf's s2 when i owned it..

i got some green tint window (the thicker stuff) from a trimmers.
it is/was the green tint mgf rear hood.
it cost £30 and i asked for some heavy duty thread.

i removed the whole hood and frame.
this is joined down inside where the b post caps are.

you will have to peel back the carpet sections as this is where the screws hold the b post rear sections to the car.

you do not have to take then off , just give yourself enough room to get you hands down to remove the little 7mm and 8mm captivated nuts of the strange shaped bracket.. be carefull not to drop them down as it will end up down by the sill.

take the roof off and don't bend it.
i placed / screwed mine on a rigid old work table and propped the header rail up with some beer crates.

remove the original rear screen by unpicking the stitching that in nearest to the window NOT the other one.

i then used the old window as a template and cut it to size.

then place the new window in and tack it back where you have just removed the old window.

tack between the old removed thread and the still present thread.
THE ROOF MUST BE TAUT/FULL OPEN for this and must stay that way untill finished.

if you have not removed both stitching seams then the new window should be comfortably resting on the outer stitch .

now all you need do is !!!

aquire 1x friend/partner to give up 8 tedious hours .

you lay on the table , on the inside of the roof ( in the up postion resting on beer crates) with you head toward the nice new clear window .

the person on the "other side" needs to feed through with a heavy duty upholstery needle through to you. and you to feed it back to them.

quite obvious really.

it would pay for the sake of your fingers to pass the needle through and return with some long nose pliers.

the roof must stay tight at all time.

if it looks like it is causing a ruck , cut the thread back to where it started. this is why so many "rear window only " jobs look creased or rinkled.

do the window in sections so you don't have to pull meters of the thread through all the time..

if you have picked the stitches out rather than ripping them out the the old holes will be clean enough to use . this should give a more professional look. and if your new thread is thicker that the original thread then it will still push through with a little resistance.

by the time you have gone all the way round ( you fingers will be hurting) but you should have got the hang of it !

so much so that your first few inches of stitching will look rubish and you may well remove that and replace it with your much improved level of stitching.

always overlap your stiching by a good amount say 1". tie off about 10 times/loops and then feed the loose thread back through the 10 loops and use a dab of with superglue..

this job was time consuming but the costs involved are low.

have fun.

clemo