Candles' Fascia Project

[Elanlover]

Candles, can you tell me what size hose you used for the heater ducting? I can see that you say 50mm but is this an exact size match for the existing pipes in the car or is it larger/smaller? I need to get some flexible hosing myself and reroute the air supplies.

Also, with regard to the heater controls, I plan on something similar. I am going to separate the 3 controls into separate units. I'll leave the temp control where it is (due to the rod attachment as you've seen for your self) then put the fan speed control inbetween the fan position contol which will be on the other side of the fascia. Think of simply rotating the whole unit down and to the left, slidng the fan position control over then putting the fan speed control between them (running horizontally like it does now). That should also leave room to drop the AC switch between the two bigger controls and just below the speed control. Lots of options to consider. Keep in mind that the speed control is lit by the same bulb as the position control so, if you separate them, you may want to consider adding in a new bulb.

[Candles]

Yes I did use 50mm ducting, but this isn't a plug'n'play solution to attach to the car-end. I took out the central blower manifold then dremelled and heat gunned until I had two 50mm outlets rather than the existing two long and thin ones. The ducting is then cable tied to the outlets I have fashioned. At the other end, I've bought aftermarket round 50mm vents.

Candles.

[Candles]

For anyone out there intending to change their fuel gauge, the stock fuel tank level sender has a resistance of ~280Ohms when empty, decreasing to ~0 Ohms when the tank is full.

Hence, when you are procuring the new gauge, select the 230-0 or the nearest option (rather than the GM standard 0-90 as I did!). An offset or a change of value can be easily corrected with a resistor in parallel/series, but if the gauge works backwards, it requires a more in depth solution.....

Here's the mechanical sender and pump unit:


Inside the sender looks like this:

I've moved the blue wire to the other end to make it read the right way around for my gauge, then I'm going to connect it in parallel with a resistor to calibrate it. I have a nasty feeling this may not work quite right owing to the way the resistive track is organised on the sender. I might see jumps up as the level drops.

Candles.

[Candles]

I'm still making progress in the garage. Everything is covered in dust owing to dremelling and sawing nearby but here are some pics:

The boot with a prototype computer install:


Switch panel for the dash. This will be painted blue like the seats:


LCD prototype install with logo as boot screen:

Notable are the heater hoses above. These are attached to the modified manifold behind.

The car is now almost ready to go back on its wheels. I'm just waiting for the handbrake levers for the Dorman calipers and the fittings for the new master cylinder.

Candles.

[dans]

Looking good!!

[GeoffSmith]

That's very interesting! They've obviously tried to linearise the gauge by having non-uniform resistance across the sender. The black bits are screen printed resistive areas and by changing the resistivity of the inks and the width of the print, you can get a wide range of resistance.

Candles, why don't you measure the individual resistors, before you put the sender back in the tank? You'll be better able to work out if any external resistors will help make it linear, or whether you'll need a special non-linear doodgimyflip. Otherwise I think you'll be p***ing into the wind.

[Candles]

Too late!

I have soldered the blue wire to the left hand most beige stripe and thrown it back in. I have then connected it up in parallel with a 132 Ohm resistor to ground. This was the result of the 1/90=1/240+1/132 calculation to try and get 0-90 Ohms for the gauge.

I've yet to connect the fuel gauge but the multimeter results are promising.... Although I can't assess the jumpiness as I obviously couldn't vary tank contents.

If it doesn't work, I'm firstly going to cry, then put the blue wire back, then order the correct gauge and eBay the current one! Either that or an A-D convertor, then D-A at the dash end! (This is too complicated for me!)

Candles.

[Candles]

Not too much progress lately on the dash, but I have sorted the master cylinder and worked out how to do the oil pressure sender: I'm leaving the stock sender behind the starter to provide the low pressure warning. I'm then teeing the AutoMeter sender into the line to the oil cooler. I'm not planning on fitting one but this would be a great place for a temp sender as well. The rigid part of the line is 10mm steel so I'm using a compression fitting with a custom collar inserted to fit the NPT-threaded oil pressure sender. This lives just behind the oil cooler now and will be wired into the old boost pressure connections. Pics to follow!

I've also fitted the new handbrake levers to the Dorman calipers and given a bit more time, will have the car back on wheels in a few days.

Candles.

[Candles]

Well, she's back on wheels! Here some pics of the work in progress:


Lots of room to work! Note the heated seat controls under the handbrake.


The reinforced speaker enclosures to take 6x9s.


Dorman rear calipers in and working: Thanks Algirdas for the levers!


Excuse my hand holding the vent panel in, but you get the idea. All of the ally will be painted blue to match the leather detail on the seats.


Warning lights to come but looking quite nice!


And the reason for starting the whole project: An SLK windblocker fits almost perfectly onto Marie's hoops. There is a tiny bit of spare material under each hoop but you shouldn't see it with the seats in. This, along with heated seats should keep the wife happy!

[Monty]

WoW can see that there`s a lot of work going in to the facia

Whats going to cover the reat of the facia? ie were the LCD screen is

[Doug]

now is the big red switch in the center of the panel just for fun and to remind you of old times or is it for the front machine guns?

[Candles]

The guarded switch is the ignition, the recess above is for the start switch, which is currently hanging on its wires out the side so I can drive the car in and out of the garage! (sitting on the floor with no gauges connected!)

The middle of the dash is going to be another piece of heat-sculpted ABS with the very light carbon-effect finish, just like by the water temp gauge in on of the pics. I just haven't made that bit yet. Joins, edges etc are getting rubber trim glued on and clamped together to hopefully eliminate rattles and the wooden spar across the whole dash will be hidden by the middle cover.

[Candles]

Wiring nightmare!

Location of the new oil pressure sender.

New dash 'installed' and all lights and gauges working!

[Candles]

For the other electrical services, I've made some mods:


This allows a rotary switch for fan speed.


This allows a toggle switch for the hazard lights.


This is them all installed. Just have to fit all the panels now!

[Monty]

Looks like you`ve been busy, just looking at the wiring makes me

Be good to see when it`s complete

[GeoffSmith]

This allows a rotary switch for fan speed.

Have you checked the lowest resistance in the dropper resistor chain? I think that that switch might be struggling to take the current. Don't forget that the contact break rating for a resistive load is usually only 10% of the continuous rated current and the fans and dropper resistors are inductive.

[Candles]

Yes I have checked it and the switch isn't up to it. In order to reduce the problem, I have only connected three of the settings (so the switch has off/low/med/hi), leaving out the one that connected through only one resistor to the fan (hence the highest current; is that right?). Obviously, being an Elan, it actually has 2 usable settings, off and full, which incur no load on the switch! Fingers crossed!

[GeoffSmith]

I'll see if I can find anything more suitable.

[Candles]

I was just going to buy a handful and replace them as required! My fan is always on full so I don't think the switch will die too quickly.

[Costas]

I am stunned! cant wait to see the final project.