problem need your help. what is this ?

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Problem

Postby rushing » Wed 14.05.2008, 16:40

Thanks guys . i will take it to get a diagnostic done . i just hope its not a big problem . I still think its a sensor. Glow plugs are definatly out of the question . I think this is why i get a fual smell. what sensor is the question??

Jason
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Postby M100 TWO » Wed 14.05.2008, 17:10

jason is there anyone near you with an elanscan? just a thought
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Postby rip » Wed 14.05.2008, 18:49

M100 TWO wrote:jason is there anyone near you with an elanscan? just a thought
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That would be me then - I'm only about 15 miles away. We have been in touch...
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Postby Candles » Wed 14.05.2008, 19:44

I'm posting the text from a PM from Rushing to me here so everyone can benefit from the answers:
Can someone tell me where i can the find the diagnostic sockett. This is for the garage to plug in there coputer.

ALDL page

I think it is one of the sensors. the engine cuts off when it gets hot. That is when i have done about 30 miles . When i am stationary the revs change . i have to keep everything at high rev to keep the engine going. Really dont know what sensor it is . If its the sensor is this expensive?


There are many sensors. Once you get a diagnosis from either the linked method above or the garage plugging in their computer, you'll be able to tell which sensor. The prices vary from just a few pounds to over a hundred for the MAP sensor (from SJ Sportscars).

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Postby GeoffSmith » Wed 14.05.2008, 20:49

With only a slight feeling of déja vu it's also on the Wiki! :roll:
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problem

Postby rushing » Thu 15.05.2008, 16:24

Having reading the treads i have noticed that Elan scan does not pick the sensor fault up. im 100% certain now its the CTS. as the car runs pefectly when cold for about 20 minutes but when it gets warm the engine idles. its like its going to cut out.

It started raining today where i live and i drove the car to work. absolutly nothing came up. So the rain kept the engine cool i guess. ver starnge . i then drove it this afternoon in warm weather it ran ok. restarted after 10 min wait. misfirey start with engine idle again.
i dont know if my analysis is wrong here but CTS might be the fault ot the MAP sensor


Does anyone know where i can get a cheap CTS sensor. dont want to waste too much money
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Re: problem

Postby GeoffSmith » Thu 15.05.2008, 17:21

rushing wrote:Having reading the treads i have noticed that Elan scan does not pick the sensor fault up.

ElanScan will not explicitly flag up an error with the CTS, but if you log a run from cold until the fans kick in, you can look at the reported coolant temperature and it is pretty obvious whether the output is sensible (even to those who cannot yet read the runes).
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Re: problem

Postby GeoffSmith » Thu 15.05.2008, 17:21

rushing wrote:Having reading the treads i have noticed that Elan scan does not pick the sensor fault up.

ElanScan will not explicitly flag up an error with the CTS, but if you log a run from cold until the fans kick in, you can look at the reported coolant temperature and it is pretty obvious whether the output is sensible (even to those who cannot yet read the runes).
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Postby M100 TWO » Thu 15.05.2008, 17:40

your usual practice, are you turning the ignition on and starting the engine all in one movement?
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Re: problem

Postby rip » Thu 15.05.2008, 18:54

GeoffSmith wrote:
rushing wrote:Having reading the treads i have noticed that Elan scan does not pick the sensor fault up.

ElanScan will not explicitly flag up an error with the CTS, but if you log a run from cold until the fans kick in, you can look at the reported coolant temperature and it is pretty obvious whether the output is sensible (even to those who cannot yet read the runes).


:agree:

Hilda's CTS was not activating the engine check light before I turned up with the laptop :?

Elanscan showed the coolant temperature as -40c :shock:

Didn't take much working out.
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Re: problem

Postby GeoffSmith » Thu 15.05.2008, 19:10

rip wrote:
GeoffSmith wrote:
rushing wrote:Having reading the treads i have noticed that Elan scan does not pick the sensor fault up.

ElanScan will not explicitly flag up an error with the CTS, but if you log a run from cold until the fans kick in, you can look at the reported coolant temperature and it is pretty obvious whether the output is sensible (even to those who cannot yet read the runes).


:agree:

Hilda's CTS was not activating the engine check light before I turned up with the laptop :?

Elanscan showed the coolant temperature as -40c :shock:

Didn't take much working out.


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Postby Candles » Thu 15.05.2008, 22:03

What's your pink wire by the ALDL Geoff? I'm guessing it goes to the fusebox, but it might go to the door harness for a lights-on warning?
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Postby GeoffSmith » Thu 15.05.2008, 22:49

Dunno!
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problem

Postby rushing » Sat 17.05.2008, 11:03

i took the car down to a garage today and they could not do anything as the diagnostic computer was not compatible. it was not compatible with tec 1 . only models over 2000 . i think i will have to rely on rip to help me out..with Elan scan with his computor.

RIP i have just pm'd you

oh by the way can some one tell me how easy is it changing coolant temperature sensor. is it something i can do or the garage .also where the heck is this located. . i tried searching it in the manual but no luck.
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problem

Postby rushing » Sat 17.05.2008, 11:08

m100 2 - yes i start the engine soon as the key fob immob kicks in in one movement. is this bad. i dont think this is the problem though as the car runs smooth as anything for the first half hour and starting straight away with one two clicks

its only when it gets warmed up.
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Postby Sy V » Sat 17.05.2008, 11:43

Jason

It's normal practice with the Elan (when starting from cold) to turn the key to the first position, wait for about three seconds (during which you should hear the fuel pump behind your left ear whirring to prime the system) then turn the key to the next notch to engage the starter motor.
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Postby Candles » Sat 17.05.2008, 14:56

Sy V wrote:then turn the key to engage the starter motor.


That is old school.

Changing the CTS:

1) Mark position of CAS with felt-tip pen on cam cover.
2) Remove CAS by undoing the socket-head bolt and all electrical plugs (there is one underneath). Expect some oil seepage so have a clean rag ready.
3) Unplug 2 way connector from CTS. NB the temp gauge sender is the one right next to the engine block at the front and the fan switch is the one furthest away on the thermostat housing with a white plug.
4) Unscrew.
5) Watch about 2 litres of coolant widdle out over the floor.
6) Screw in new CTS.
7) Plug in.
8) Reinstall CAS, lining up your felt-tip mark.
9) Plug in all wires.
10) Check you haven't left any tools around the place, then test. It would be worthwhile having Elanscan running at this stage to verify you have a good CTS reading.

If you are a real die-hard perfectionist, you should now check the engine base timing as you will have disturbed it. It isn't a bad thing to do regularly anyway.

Number 8 isn't a particularly cool step, it's just that LEC turns that character pair into the shades icon!

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Postby Foo » Sat 17.05.2008, 19:16

Candles, you can get around that by using bbcode like this:

Code: Select all
[list=1]
[*]Entry One
[*]Entry Two
[*]Entry Three
[/list]


Which produces:
  1. Entry One
  2. Entry Two
  3. Entry Three


Either that, or make every step 8 something awesome.
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Postby GeoffSmith » Sat 17.05.2008, 19:29

... or selecting the "Disable Smilies in this post" option.
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Postby dapinky » Sat 17.05.2008, 20:17

Or put a space between the 8 and the ), or use a . not a )........


Too many experts on here, but the point is, your CTS write-up is so good it should go on the wiki (with a picture) 8) 8) 8)
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