Have to turn the starter too long on cold starts

[tweetdriver63]

I don't know if this is normal behavior for an Elan, but it's a little embarrassing to sit in a fine, sexy, exotic, etc, sports car, and have to crank and crank and crank before it starts.

When the engine is hot, it's not a problem. If I make a short stop, when I get back in, it starts right up. The problem is when it's been sitting a while, maybe overnight, or for a few hours, I usually have to turn the key and hold the starter cranking for 5 seconds or more before it starts. Usually, I hold it for 5 or 6 seconds (which is an eternity without a start), and it doesn't feel like it's starting, then I release the key (back out of the start position) and the engine, almost reluctantly, continues and starts.

I just know that one of these times it's not going to start. It's one thing when you drive a P.O.S. VW (Old Beetle) or something, and it won't start. It's something completely different, and embarrassing, when it's your fancy exotic performance car that sticks you.

Any thoughts?

[Candles]

Mine is the opposite!

For your problem though, I would try and get it plugged into ElanScan and see what the sensors are saying the coolant temperature is. If they aren't recording the fact the engine is cold, then it won't richen the mixture for start hence your issues.

Candles.

[Doug]

the Elan engine is so small it should start almost immediately!

I suggest when you go to start the car cold, you put the key to the run position and let the fuel pump pressurize the system for a few seconds -- > only then turn it to start and it should make a difference. Hesitating with the key will also allow the IAC (idle air control valve) to set to the proper place for the start-up temp and pressure conditions that the computer senses once you turn the key to run.

when was the fuel filter last changed? if it is cruddy it could slow the initial flow/pressure upon startup

base timing off could alter the start a bit

As Candles says, here's another time ElanScan can be used to verify the sensors are reading properly and not to blame too.

[Gazza]

I would try the other suggestions first, but it sounds like a problem I had. I thought it was just cold starts as well but the problem just got worse and starting happening at random.

Turned out to be the starter motor was damaged/burnt out and I had to keep trying to start it until the contacts inside, stopped in the right places to fire up.

New starter motor fitted, instantly no more problem.

Just a thought

Gazza

[tweetdriver63]

the Elan engine is so small it should start almost immediately!

I suggest when you go to start the car cold, you put the key to the run position and let the fuel pump pressurize the system for a few seconds -- > only then turn it to start and it should make a difference. Hesitating with the key will also allow the IAC (idle air control valve) to set to the proper place for the start-up temp and pressure conditions that the computer senses once you turn the key to run.

when was the fuel filter last changed? if it is cruddy it could slow the initial flow/pressure upon startup

base timing off could alter the start a bit

As Candles says, here's another time ElanScan can be used to verify the sensors are reading properly and not to blame too.

I'll try to remember to go to on for a few seconds first. I was going to do that this morning, but forgot. The car cranked right up anyway. Go figure.

I got the car about three weeks ago. Including driving it home from Pennsylvania, I've added about 3K miles. The last owner only put about 900 on it in the year and a half he had it. I don't know when things were changed last. I'm planning to do that this weekend (oil change w/Mobil 1 synthetic, oil/fuel/air filters, plugs, etc), coolant flush/fill. I pretty much want to start with everything fresh and clean.

[Candles]

That is a good place to start if you are that handy. You can also check the resistance of the CTS (coolant temp sensor) with a multimeter just to rule that out before you get elanscan.

Do you have the workshop manual? It not only has the procedures for everything and good descriptive paragraphs, but also fault-finding flowcharts for the engine management system.

Good luck,

Candles.

[tweetdriver63]

That is a good place to start if you are that handy. You can also check the resistance of the CTS (coolant temp sensor) with a multimeter just to rule that out before you get elanscan.

Do you have the workshop manual? It not only has the procedures for everything and good descriptive paragraphs, but also fault-finding flowcharts for the engine management system.

Good luck,

Candles.

I do have the manuals. I got elanscan, but I don't have a cable for it, so it's not worth much to me right now.

[Paul.P]

I must admit, mine has recently started doing this. When cold nearly always requires lots of turning over ( occasionly fires instantly ), but when been on a run, starts straight away, will do elanscan & perhaps one of the experts can tell me if everythings ok ?

[tweetdriver63]

I must admit, mine has recently started doing this. When cold nearly always requires lots of turning over ( occasionly fires instantly ), but when been on a run, starts straight away, will do elanscan & perhaps one of the experts can tell me if everythings ok ?

I will definitely be interested in your findings.

[RichieP]

I've had this sort of start up issue for years, but recently I think I've figured out why (but not managed to fix it)!
The secondary throttle is normally open, and should close as soon as the engine is turned over so increasing port velocity needed for smooth low-rpm running.
It is vacuum actuated and has it's own vacuum reservoir. Mine stays open until a couple of seconds after the car (reluctantly) starts, and the idle doesn't even out until this has happened.
To test, look between the inlet tracts on cylinders 2 and 3 (down behind the injectors) and you can see the top of the actuator. If you can get someone to start the care while you're looking at it, you see it pop down out of sight as it closes. You can get it to actuate off its reservoir alone if you put the car in diagnostic mode using the paper clip procedure, which powers the solenoid when the ignition's on, but the engine not running.

If the vacuum reservoir is on its way out, or there's a leak somewhere, it could explain poor starting first thing in the day but no problems when re-starting.

Mine has no leaks, but the mechanism is binding very slightly, so the full vacuum when the engine is running is needed to pull the secondaries shut.

Hope that helps
Cheers
Richie

[Foo]

Mine has started showing a similar issue now over the past month. Gradually cold starts have become worst. At first, it was just idling too low after starting (~700rpm). More recently since it's been stood without use for longer periods, I tried to crank it yesterday and it took 10-20 seconds to get it to fire up... and then the whole car was shaking as it turned over sloooowly.

I also seem to have lost a lot of acceleration even when warm. My first check is going to be the plugs (just need a spanner) as it's an SE and runs a bit rich, they're prolly smegged up.

Then I'm hoping I can find someone with an elanscan interface near Leeds