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Moderators: theelanman, dapinky, Specky, clemo, Nige, Sy V, Dave Eds, DaveT, Elanlover, muley, Enright, algirdas, nitroman, GeoffSmith
GeoffSmith wrote:Welcome to LEC Mike.
It would be worth checking for air leaks first. The MAP and MAF sensors may be giving erroneous output that isn't sufficient to throw up an error but might be visible on an ElanScan run.
Monty wrote:Check ignition leads haven't worked loose ie at the sparkplug & coil end
Check to make sure the spark plugs haven't come loose
Check sparkplug condition
Check ignition leads condition
If they check out then it could be a faulty coil/s
GeoffSmith wrote:If you'd used ElanScan, you could have posted the results up here and we could have said "never seen anything like it" for free!
Doug wrote:you could put the car into "service mode" and that would lock out the sensors and then you should have a steady idle -- if not that would be a problem . . .
airwolf929 wrote:Doug wrote:you could put the car into "service mode" and that would lock out the sensors and then you should have a steady idle -- if not that would be a problem . . .
Thanks Doug, pardon my ignorance but would "service mode" have anything to do with paper clips? If so, would the engine need to be running before, or after the short is applied?
GeoffSmith wrote:airwolf929 wrote:Doug wrote:you could put the car into "service mode" and that would lock out the sensors and then you should have a steady idle -- if not that would be a problem . . .
Thanks Doug, pardon my ignorance but would "service mode" have anything to do with paper clips? If so, would the engine need to be running before, or after the short is applied?
Inserting the paper clip when the engine is running disables sensors and opens the IAC valve - there is quite a bit on the Wiki and it has a good search facility.
Doc Fizzix wrote:For what it is worth, it sounds like the secondaries may be stuck open. The cause of the secondaries being stuck is normally a faulty switch or a vacuum leek. If the secondaries do not close at low RPMs then the car hunts a lot. I had this problem when I rebuilt my motor and some how knocked the vacuum line off the secondaries switch OR I had disconnected the switch (it was one of the two I just can't remember which one - man I am getting old) Anyways, you will get no code errors and it is almost impossible to find unless you have experienced it before.
The quick test, with the car running, with the hood open, and standing in front of the car look through the intake plume where the injectors are attached to the injector housing. In the middle of the injector housing you should see the secondaries vacuum actuator that opens and closes the secondaries, with the engine at an idle the valve should be closed, rev the motor up using the throttle on the intake plume and the valve should open, watch to see if the actuator moves up and down as you change the rpms of the motor. If the actuator does not move up and down you have a problem with the secondary system, check for a vacuum leak or a bad switch
Give it a try, it may be the problem

Enright wrote:It sounds very suspicious - they very rarely run that hot - usually it's around the 1/8 mark.
If the thermostat fails in the closed position you get a cold reading because the sensor is on the opposite side, and if it fails open then the engine just runs cool.
To be getting to such a temperature on a regular basis it almost sounds like the cooling system has been blocked.
That paperclip test will make for interesting reading.
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