What buyers want to know (eg: How best to sell your Elan quickly, and while achieving the best price!)In a noble effort to keep my pontificating from dragging numerous 'for sale' threads off-topic, Clemo asked me to put some thoughts in a separate thread.
Clemo suggested that this might mean that if sellers or buyers wished to “have my wisdom” then “they can go read it and if not tuff luck to them.” This would, he thought, “help those who can be bothered to read it without clogging up the thread.”
I don’t know about that, but as a relatively recent buyer, and as a potential buyer for a second Elan, I having been following the 'for sale' ads closely, and I’m astonished how often buyers fail to give the kind of information that buyers want, and fail to do all that’s possible to differentiate their cars from those on eBay, Autotrader and Pistonheads.
And the best tool available to help you sell an Elan is information. The more that you can tell potential buyers about your car, the more open and honest you’ll look, and the more they will want to look at your car.
When selling a Lotus Elan, you are selling a car that is AT BEST 13 years old. That’s if it’s S2 No.800!
If it’s an NA or SE, then it’s 16 years old at best. (The last and 3,855th of these (‘last four’ 6622) was built in July 1992).
At worst, you’re looking at selling a 19 year old car.
For newer second hand cars, the usual price guides tend to have handy tables plotting value against age, and they give allowances for trade/private, condition and mileage. They implicitely accept a direct link between age and mileage. The Elan isn't in those guides.
And you’d be mad to assume that there is ANY relationship between age and value when selling an Elan today. There are beautiful, concours condition G-reg cars out there that have had thousands of pounds and thousands of man hours of expert attention lavished on them, and at the other end of the scale, there are tatty and accident-damaged S2s that would be best broken up for spares. Once cars get to this age, the difference between 16 and 19 years is trivial.
As a seller, you want to maximise the price someone will pay, and to achieve that you need to make sure that buyers know the value of what you are selling.
But some buyers may expect a correlation between age and price, so it’s worth explaining to a potential buyer why your G-reg marvel is worth rather more than my dog-rough J-reg car!
As an Elan owner, you know that there is not an unbreakable correlation between mileage and value, though here at least, it can at least be said that all other things being equal, low mileage does often translate into higher asking prices.
Again, buyers may need 'educating' on why your car's price is higher than they might expect from the mileage figure.
If you are selling a high mileage car or a low mileage car, you need to give your potential buyers information, and lots of it, so that they can put the mileage (and the price you are asking) in context.
A tale of two carsOne of our senior US members recently went to look at an S2 with just 14,500 miles on the clock. It had always been garaged, in a rain-free state. Of course the engine bay looked immaculate, and the valves, bores and pistons would have been in great shape. But he (quite rightly) expressed some concern “about driving the car home”. Even if a car was properly stored, on blocks, properly inhibited, seals may be leaking, hoses may have deteriorated, and all sorts of components may have deteriorated unpredictably – perhaps including the gaskets. And the new-looking tyres would certainly need changing, despite the lack of wear. And the 60,000 mile, five-year lifed cam belt (and all the other belts). And if it hadn’t been properly stored and inhibited, what corrosion might there be inside the cylinders, even? Cars of this age thrive by being used, and long periods of inactivity only encourage the gremlins. So if you're selling a car like this, you need to reassure the potential buyer, and not assume that low mileage alone makes it a great buy.
On the other hand, at the same time, another member was selling an older SE with 145,000 miles. But this car had brand new tyres, had recently changed belts, and hoses, leads, coil packs, plugs et al would all have been changed, and kept in decent nick by regular use and regular servicing by owners with a no expense spared attitude. And the engine was rebuilt just four years and 25,000 miles ago at great expense, with a new head gasket and with the block having been pressure tested. But it does have nearly 150,000 miles on the odometer, and any potential buyer would need reassurance about this.
One car was ready to go, and a great drive off the seller’s drive, while the other would require extensive and expensive work before it could be used. If your car falls into either category, it’s worth giving the buyer the information he’ll need to reach a decision.
But there are lots of other factors to consider when it comes to mileage. The buyer will want to know whether they have been ‘hard miles’ or soft? Lots of short journeys means lots of wear and tear, lots of running at less than optimum temperature, and lots of ‘thermal cycles’ on the engine and especially on the turbo. Lots of longer journeys are better. And they may wonder whether the car has been flung around ordinary roads (which will seldom take the engine to its limits) or thrashed around a track, which they may expect to impose wear and tear (if not damage) disproportionate to the number of ‘track miles’. How many Elan gearboxes, hoses, turbos and head gaskets have given up the ghost during or after tracking? How many more have been weakened, but haven’t yet been lost? Think about what the buyer will want to know, and give him the information he wants or needs.
A buyer may want to thrash the car after he’s bought it, but invariably he won’t want a car that has been thrashed by previous owners. Do chips, dump valves, and other performance upgrades indicate how a car has been driven? Is it worth considering how to explain their presence, perhaps, as being upfront about such mods will provide the buyer with useful reassurance.
The bottom line is that not all miles are the same.
It’s all about ConditionSo it’s not about age, or mileage, in other words, but about condition and useability. And a loved car that has been regularly used will tend to have a few miles on the clock – 100 miles per week would mean 5,000 miles per annum, so that the newest Elan S2 might have a minimum of 65,000 miles, and the oldest SE would be expected to have covered at least 95,000. Any less than this, and the buyer might want to look hard at the service history and ask you why it was so little used during some or all of its life.
Of course it should go without saying that anyone looking to buy an Elan will tend to go through all of the steps outlined in the buyers guide on the forum (at
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=7207) and on the Wiki. And they may get an AA/RAC inspection, an HPI check, and, perhaps even a full check by a Lotus specialist like Steve Williams or GST in Newmarket. The seller might be wise to anticipate what might arise from such inspections and examinations, and be ready with explanations and hard information.
Answering the buyer’s likely questionsAny informed buyer will want to ask the owner the right questions to assess what sort of history the car has had, because that history may give a really good prediction of what sort of things might go wrong in the future.
It’s a buyer’s market at the moment, and there are lots of good Elans available at most price points. Remarkably few sellers give all the information a buyer might want to know in their adverts (even here on LEC), and giving that information up-front may give you an edge.
It makes you look up front and open and honest, and can save the buyer time that he might otherwise waste traveling long distances to see unsuitable cars.
The buyer wants to know whether a car is a good one, worth investing his time and money going to see it. The answers to some or all of these questions may give him a good feel for a car, above and beyond what he might glean from a brief description and a bunch of small (and quite possibly flattering) photos.
Assuming that you have given the registration number (or at least the year prefix) in your ad, the buyer will want to know the mileage, and the number of owners. How long have you had the car, and why are you selling? (Read between the lines – the smart buyer will be probing whether this might be a car that’s suddenly getting major bills). Reassurance is best provided via hard information from the service history. Tell the buyers what sort of mileage has the car done per year over the past few years? What sort of written history is there? Are there gaps? (Service stamps plus mileage on MoT certificates is good enough to confirm mileage, but are there bills for recent servicings? If not, is it because you’re Dave Speck or Phil – an ace Elan mechanic who does high quality work themselves, and for whom oil changes and the like are easy?)
If not, you should perhaps tell the buyers who has been doing the servicing? When was it last serviced? How much has been spent on the car in the last year?
When was the cam belt last changed? These should be changed every 60,000 miles or every five years, and buyers know that replacement is a relatively expensive job. If yours was replaced in February, that’s a real selling point.
Does the car have the full leather interior or the half leather? Half leather is worth significantly less, as are customized, non-stock interiors, so if yours has a great, original interior, then don’t wait to be asked, flag it up!
What are the tyres, and when were they last changed? Modern high performance tyres last about six years before the sidewalls may be compromised, so if the age of tyres can’t be proved, the smart MUST assume that they need replacing. If your car has good, recent tyres, and you can prove it, then make the most of it.
Does the car have a Thatcham Cat 1 alarm/immobiliser? NAs and SEs didn’t have one as standard, so can’t be assumed to have one. But having one may dramatically reduce a new owner’s insurance premiums, and will certainly make his new purchase harder to steal, and thus less likely to be stolen? Another big sales point.
Anticipate what the buyer might ask?
Has it had new leads/plugs/coil packs? When? At what mileage?
Has it had new hoses? When? At what mileage?
Has it had a new clutch? When? At what mileage?
Does it have improved/uprated brakes? What make? When were they fitted?
How is the driver’s seat? How much does it sag? Or has it had a new seat cushion or a new diaphragm?
Perhaps the key question is whether a given car is worth the asking price. It’s certainly going to be uppermost in a buyer’s mind, and the sensible seller needs to make sure that he doesn’t put off buyers by asking too much.
If you want to get a good price, you need to justify it, and you need to explain very clearly why your car is worth more than other Elans of the same mileage, which are being advertised more cheaply.
That’s really a question for another post, however. I would say that prices are changing all the time – there is still an underlying downward trend, with some seasonal variation, and this means that a guide to prices posted in May would be very different to one posted in October. Moreover, one has to realize that asking prices are very different to achieved prices, the latter being harder to discover, except for cars sold via eBay.
Having been analyzing asking AND achieved prices over the past few months, I have built up a list of about 150 cars sold or for sale, with asking prices, price reductions on subsequent ads, and with about 20 achieved prices (not including those final bids that did not meet a seller’s reserve).
I therefore have some feel for real world prices today, and with people’s indulgence, I will post a view on pricing shortly.