Your thoughts/feelings after installing the mountain chip...

[max and andy]

Hot .Ive just been having a think and i remember Maxine pointing out that the two rows of short prongs running along the edge of the chip circuit board.I think its the very last prong on the right of the board there is only the one prong, instead of the rest which are in twos.I thought at the time that's the way it should be .Does anyone notice this to.Could this be a problem. Andy

[GeoffSmith]

You will also not get full boost unless your foot is flat on the floor! Make sure you have enough free road ahead of you (and don't get too distracted by the gauge) and if you go uphill (I find a motorway slip road is ideal) you will have slightly longer before you reach the legal speed limit.

Not sure what you mean in your last post - could you elaborate with reference to the pictures in the V4 installation instructions?

[max and andy]

Well i went out this morning to test the Everest again. I went up the duel carriageway and tried Geoffsmiths flat to the floor advice.0.5 Bar i thought this is not happening its stock. I thought i know Ive put it together right. Because i checked it half a dozen times before putting it in. But i thought i would give it one more chance. I will take it out and put it back in again. But as a contingency plan I needed to nip to Halfords to get some cable ties to put the MBC back on. Just in case the chip didn't work. I thought I'm having a crap week first the dash lights go buggered and now the chip is.And people are getting pissed off with the questions. And now its starting to piss down with rain. So i thought lets get home quick. A mile down the road put the old foot down a bit.Wooooooooooooooooow . 0.9 Bar all the way. So the Everest seems to have kicked in. Boy does it make a difference. That's more like it. Thanks for the advice Geoff that foot to the floor thing must of knocked the cobwebs out of the Everest. Whats it going to be like when the exhaust is done? Anyway back to the dash Rheostat. Andy

[lotos]

Just hearing about this makes me want to order a chip today... I'm right now waiting to see the outcome on the switcher situation. Plus, I don't mind running the car a little while in stock power to more appreciate the upgrade down the road.

I wonder why it didn't work for you right away?

people are getting pissed off with the questions.

Just throw a few spaces after a period and you'll be alright

[HJ2]

Enjoy the 0.9 boost

[max and andy]

Ive just been out again with Maxine and its even better when you cant see your speedo. Andy

[GeoffSmith]

The engine must be up to temperature before the ECU will give you full boost, so if you started from cold, chances are it wasn't warm enough.

[max and andy]

I gave it a good 4 or 5 mile before i attempted to use the turbo. I just had not put my foot to the floor. The first and second time i tested it i was on a 8 mile stretch of duel carriageway. It was third time lucky. I thing i must of blown the cobwebs out on the second run ready for the third. Andy & Max

[rip]

With a large bore exhaust, you should see a vurther increase in power. Boost is pressure: a bigger exhaust will reduce the resistance to flow, so the same pressure will create more gas flow.
Boost will build up more quickly.
You will probably hit overboost. The wastegate is designed to be optimum for the stock exhaust. Increase the exhaust size & it will allow more exhaust gas out from the engine than the wastegate can control. Once out of control, boost will creep until you hit a limit where overboost will be induced. Having said that, overboost for an Everest is marginally higher than that for a stock chip so you may be in luck.

[max and andy]

We cant wait. But we must get the brakes done. Andy thinks it would be safer to get the brakes done. Before i go on a track day. I cant wait to learn how to drive properly. Maxine

[max and andy]

Where having problems again. We went out the car would only push 0.4 Bar. Then 0.3 0.2,0.1. And there its stayed. Its either the Everest is buggered or the wastage is stuck closed. It was working great yesterday. I will take the chip out and go back to stock. We will see if we get over 0.5 with stock set up. Any other views would be appreciated. The waste gate got stuck shut once before on the way home from buying it. £400 to sort it out.It shouldn't go again so soon.Or its the chip. Andy

[Sy V]

Don't keep fitting and removing the chip. If it has worked once it'll work again.
Forget about apportioning the blame on the chip - it ain't that. You've already proved that. The cobwebs (that you keep alluding to having blown out) are in your existing system and probably either mechanical (as in the wastegate, its actuator or a vacuum/pressure leak in your plumbing) or electrical/electronic in other areas of the system.

[max and andy]

Ive come to the conclusion that my wastegate is stuck open (no boost). I have been reading up all night on how to wiggle it. What would it cost at a garage for a wiggle? I only had the similer thing done less then 1000 miles ago. Should it be able to bugger so soon?

[esprit888]

Ok its late and i just got back from picking up the nice S2000 seats but dont you mean stuck 'open' not 'closed' ? (i did say it was late )

Where having problems again. We went out the car would only push 0.4 Bar. Then 0.3 0.2,0.1. And there its stayed. Its either the Everest is buggered or the wastage is stuck closed. It was working great yesterday. I will take the chip out and go back to stock. We will see if we get over 0.5 with stock set up. Any other views would be appreciated. The waste gate got stuck shut once before on the way home from buying it. £400 to sort it out.It shouldn't go again so soon.Or its the chip. Andy

[Sy V]

I'd stick with 'stuck' for the moment. Who cares if it's open or closed.

You know, things like this can happen when new drivers take to a car.
Let's say that the previous owner habitually drove like a lesbian. You come along and drive the car with a modicum of spirit and initially, the mechanicals don't like the treatment and tend to seize.
This exact scenario confronted me a couple of years ago. I used my wife's TDi Freelander to tow a trailer and pick-up a car in North Wales. She's not a lesbian obviously, but she drives like a yoghurt-weaving lefty pinko dyke. The car was used to her style (if you can call it that) of driving. When I used it (just for the one journey) I tended to use the turbo somewhat more than it had been used to and probably accelerated up to (or near to) the red line on most gear changes.
Trip complete, next day, no boost - engine wouldn't rev above 3500.
Thirty minutes stripping various bits off to access the turbo. A good dose of WD-40 and some effort to free and wiggle the actuator arm (I even dropped in a K&N filter!) and Hey Presto - back to normal.

Moral of the story - ban all women who drive like women from the roads!

I'll get my flak-jacket!

[HJ2]

Perhaps first exclude the worst... If you remove the hose between Turbo and filter, can you spin the turbo freely?
If yes, do the wiggle! Wiggeling is easy. Hold on to the wasegate control rod with something take care not to damage anything, and move (wiggle) the control rod up and forth (there is quite a amout of force needed wich is OK if the force vector is parrallel with the control rod.

I used a little WD40 and let it soak. Then i Wiggled till evereything moved freely,and removed the wd40 again applying brake cleaner
(so i use NO lubrication on this part wich prevents building up carbon residue) Never had a sticking gate eversince (wich is a year by now)

If the turbo spins freely and the wastegate operates freely do as stated above and check all vacuum plumbing for leaks and perhaps give the connector of the solenoid a quick spray of contact cleaner.

If you go to see a garage make sure you pick one who knows what a wastegate is

[max and andy]

Where ever we go with the cars we seem to get ripped off. So I'm going to have a go at the wiggle myself. What Ive picked up on the wiki. I take the heat shield off. Undo the three bolts that hold the diaphragm bracket and actuation capsule. This will give me the movement i need to push the shaft to the wastegate to the left and right. And wiggle it. How loose should it feel? Ive read that if the wastegate is closed shut you get over boost if its stuck open then no boost. Is this correct? How far does the foot thing on the end of the shaft move? From say 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock 180deg. Would that be about right or less then that? Is there anythings Ive mist? Andy

[max and andy]

HJ2 you said if you can spin the turbo freely do the wiggle as if to say the wastegates stuck.Then you said if the turbo moves freely the wastegate moves freely. .Whats the force vector? Andy

[HJ2]

Andy,

What i ment is:
If the turbo won't rotate to begin with, then there's obviously no need in flimsing around with the wastegate, the problem then lies with the turbo. (let's hope this is not true)
One has nothing to do with the other.

By Force Vector i mean that you should apply force in the same direction as the actuator rod does, wich means as much as that you'll have to be careful not to bend anything

[GeoffSmith]

The shaft on the wastegate turns through approximately 90° from fully closed to fully open and you should feel no resistance. It should be as free as the sex you get at Sy's annual lesbian themed orgies (by invitation only).