LOKI my long term project.... (help often needed)

[MattDon]

on a more serious note, has anyone got anytips on removing the nut that hold the turbo to the manifold. im struggling.

[dapinky]

i managed to get the heatshield off the manifold the other day and i bet thats going to be a SOB to get off.

If you mean the manifold, then it is very straightforward (if you do it right!).

The heat shields are the only embuggerance factor, once they are off, then the rest is 'what you see, is what you need to move' - take the engine lift bracket off to allow the top heatshield to slide out towards the gearbox, take the pivot bolt out of the power steering pump and drop it down an inch or two so you can get to the left hand (viewed from outside the car) manifold nut.

Take the turbo to airfilter & turbo to chargecooler pipes off.

Take the dipstick tube away from the block (unscew under the manifold).

Disconect the water pipes to turbo, and the oil feed pipe (all banjo bolts). (water/coolant will go everywhere!)

Disconect the bracket which holds the downpipe/pre-cat dustbin to the block.

Disconect the exhaust pipe (3 nuts/studs)

Disconect the wastegate actuator pipe (small bore - usually a very tight fit on the spiggot - easiest way is to cut it with a stanley knife just shy of the turbo - there should be plenty of excess length to fit it back later).

Disconnect the water pipes at the electric pump thingy which circulates water when the engine switches off (to give you manoevering room).

Undo the nuts which hold the manifold on (14mm - they aint tight!) - some might bring the studs with them - no problem, the studs have to come out anyway!

Remove all the studs (E8 star socket) - again, they aint tight - as a tip, leave the left hand one in (by the Power steering pump) as the manifold is 'slotted' and it will help when it comes to replacing it all.

Now the only thing holding it in place should be the oil return pipe....

this just pulls off a straight pipe into the engine sump (springy clip thing, not a proper hose clamp - you'll see what I mean when you look at it

Then you can manoevre it to the right (gearbox end), twist it a bit to get the wastegate actuator out from behind the clam, and lift it away!

Job done!

(it gives you a good chance to clean up all the cr@p and oil which will have leaked out of the CAS seal and down the side of the block which you never knew was there! - and the 1/4" of cr@p which has collected on top of the prongeron)

[rip]

I'll need this when I port my wastegate.

[dapinky]

:goodposting:

I'll need this when I port my wastegate.

By then, It'll be part of a 'How To' guide on "Re-building your Turbo for £30" (which takes not very long, costs not very much, and lets you port the wastegate )

I've nearly finished writing it, and just need to insert all the pics at the right place, then convert it to a .pdf file!

[MattDon]

im looking forward to that, id like to write some how to's as well but seen as im proberly not the best person to learn from it might not be a great idea.

thankyou for the info, extremely helpful. The one specific place where im struggling is the nuts between the turbo and the manifold (14mm), its a matter of access realy, the bolt at the top i can reach with a spanner and that gone fine but as i unscrewed it it moved twards the turbo and now i cant get a spanner on it, I suppose i could unscrew each one as far as possible and then pull the turbo toward the front clam and repeat or am i missing something?

[dapinky]

Matt,

I'll edit my write-up to include that bit!

Yep, you've got it right!

Take out the ones you can get to easily, then there should be 3 or 4 which will catch on the turbo/wastegate manifold and wont come all the way out.

This is part of the reason for leaving the left hand one in - it will give you a 'pivot' to swing the manifold out a few millimeters or so, to continue undoing the nuts. more importantly, they should be less than finger tight once they start to move, but with the weight of the manifold on them they will need a spanner. if you can manage to lift the manifold a bit (using the 'pivot' stud again), then it may become a whole lot easier.

[MattDon]

amazing thankyou.

[saska]

By then, It'll be part of a 'How To' guide on "Re-building your Turbo for £30" (which takes not very long, costs not very much, and lets you port the wastegate )

Think this will be v. useful to many people.

I've nearly finished writing it, and just need to insert all the pics at the right place, then convert it to a .pdf file!

PDFCreator is v. good, free, installs itself as a printer and then just saves the output as a .pdf file:
Sourceforge

[dapinky]

Tony,

Thanks for the link, but as I may end up doing the final edit at work (I'm on nights tonight), I'm lumbered with the software installed - Acrobat 9 is on the machine, and I asume this will do the job (it's the full version, not just the reader).

[saska]

Thanks for the link, but as I may end up doing the final edit at work (I'm on nights tonight), I'm lumbered with the software installed - Acrobat 9 is on the machine, and I asume this will do the job (it's the full version, not just the reader).

This will certainly do the job.
Somebody paid a wedge of cash for it.

[dapinky]

This will certainly do the job.
Somebody paid a wedge of cash for it.

My employers seem to have two different mottos when it comes to budget...

"Down to a price, not up to a standard" for things we get to need to use.....

"It must be good, It costs a lot" for software which we don't need!

[saska]

My employers seem to have two different mottos when it comes to budget...
"Down to a price, not up to a standard" for things we get to need to use.....
"It must be good, It costs a lot" for software which we don't need!

So much stuff these days is a victory of style over substance...

[MattDon]

turbo removed manifold most of the way off and i think i can cope with it. im supraised how easy it actualy was to get the turbo off in the end, once you know how its much easier. ok so access isnt the best in the elan but im supraised at just how much i can do on this car, coming from never working on a car before and not being mechanicaly minded, but between all the amazing help on here and the workshop manuals (which arnt as helpful as you might think, especialy if you know nothing about mechanics) im actualy getting there.

If i can cope id also like to replace the wishbones and shocks and dampers but that comes after the engine change.... i think. looks like it might not be too long before i get the turbo on.

now if only i could learn how to paint too.... oh and how to fibreglass... well.

[MattDon]

i think ive asked before but looking at it the jacking point on the brg on the n/s is totaly knackerd, as i was thinking of using the tub in future i was wondering is the tub ruined or can it be repaired or would i just be better off getting a sh or new tub.

[RayD]

Matt,

You would probably need to get to the inside to see what the damage is, here's one of Dave Speck's pics.

Ray

[MattDon]

well its ALOT worse than that!

[MattDon]

feck feck a million times feck, ive been working my ass off trying to get the manifold off so i can have it shaped to the turbo adaptor and after all that its cracked. what are my options?

[dapinky]

Matt,

It depends how cracked it is!

Of the 6 I've ever removed, the only one NOT to be cracked is the one on my blue car - all the others have small cracks front and rear.

I have 'repaired' one with chemical metal (having sand-blasted the manifold first) and it lasted a couple of years - still going strong (on Angies car).

Another one I have had welded, but it isn't fitted yet, so dont know how well it will last.

The others were all put together as they were (once I realised that they are all like it!) without any issues.

If your cracks are elsewhere(like on a mounting face), let me know - I may be able to help

[MattDon]

i think what i might do is send this as is to the guy im getting to shape it and ask him if he can do anything to help.

[dapinky]

The cracks aint the worst I've ever seen.

In order to weld them up (more like brazing, but at high temp), then the cracks will need to be made bigger - make sure that your man knows what he is doing with Cast Iron, and it shouldn't be that hard to sort out.

If he isn't happy to work on it, then it looks good enough to use as-is!