Your thoughts/feelings after installing the mountain chip...

[Monty]

IMHO theres not much difference in power between the Everest and the Elsyium, i certainly wouldn`t just by the switcher for the Elsyium programe

[John_W]

I'd say that the main difference with the Elysium Mons over the Everest is that the red line is reached quicker.

The difference is mainly at the top end, and due to the a:f ratio map changes it just revs more willingly owing to reducing the over-rich idiot margin at the top end. That is one thing to be aware of: although Eysium is still fairly idiot-proof (ie there's still a good margin for a:f ratio over-richness at the top end and it's designed to avoid any knock whatsoever) you should ensure your timing is checked regularly as it should be and the engine is generally in good condition and properly looked after. (And your brakes, suspension, steering ... .)

It's just one of those things that the current ultimate is the Elysium, and if you want the ultimate expression of ESM's art then go for it. However I agree with Monty and Elanlover that the difference between Everest and Elysium Mons is nothing like the surprise you get when you fit an Everest.


The switcher has other advantages however. It certainly helped Enright finally sort his fuel consumption problems by letting him fit an oxygen sensor, and if you don't trust the garage not to take liberties on test drives, you can revert to standard map (although I'd go to a different garage if you can't trust them to be mechanically sympathetic). It also looks cool.

John

[ESM]

With the fuel enrichment changes the Elysium is worth maybe 8HP over an Everest at 6000rpm, 5.5HP at 5000rpm and 1.5HP at 4000rpm (using full throttle). If you look at my site here near the bottom of the page you will find a graph showing the average (across the rev range) HP benefit of various candidate mixture changes - they were not massive but were measurable.

So comparing the effects of the mixture change alone (the mixture dyno runs were done with maps where the only difference was the power enriched mixtures); the Everest represents a power increase of (approx.) 35HP over base which is a 21% increase, whereas, an Elysium gives, let's say, 5.5HP gain (the average HP increase from 4000 to 6500RPM from dyno runs) more than an Everest which represents a change of 2.75% (from the Everest) or 24.5% (from stock).

The Elysium also peaks at a higher boost than the Everest, it reaches 0.95bar at 4400RPM but falls again after that (because the injectors can't fuel that boost level at high RPM), where the Everest gives a flat 0.9bar. The Elysium's boost change should offer a little more oomph in the mid range but I don't have dyno evidence of that. A back of the envelope calculation suggests that the combination of the two elements should give something like a 8HP gain over the Everest from just over 4000rpm up.

[tonny006]

I have recently fitted an Everest chip which is working perfectly on the road.
Doing a trackday yesterday i had a cooling issue (which i need to sort out),where the temperature is going up too high.
After 1 lap the temperature was above halfway on the guage and the boost reduced it's self back to standard.
Is this what it should do,when i sort out the cooling will it work properly .
After getting stuck in a traffic jam today i had the same problem untill it cooled down.

[Monty]

I have recently fitted an Everest chip which is working perfectly on the road.
Doing a trackday yesterday i had a cooling issue (which i need to sort out),where the temperature is going up too high.
After 1 lap the temperature was above halfway on the guage and the boost reduced it's self back to standard.
Is this what it should do,when i sort out the cooling will it work properly .
After getting stuck in a traffic jam today i had the same problem untill it cooled down.

When on track my temp gauge doesn`t go any higher than normal, if it does start to creep up i know there`s a problem.
1st thing to check/replace is the thermostat, might be worth doing a block test (ie sniffer test) just to make sure it`s not the Head Gasket

[tonny006]

Hi Monty,
thanks for the reply,
the thermostat was replaced a month ago and waterpump last year.
I have done about 800 miles including a trackday and used no coolant so i don't suspect head gasket problems,but i know the radiator needs replacing as all the fins have rotted away between the rails which can't be helping.
the temp sits at 1/4 on the motorway at a constant 80 mph but as soon as you make the engine work harder on the track it creeps up.
Should the chip go to standard boost at high temp?

[John_W]

Tonny,
One of the advantages of Mountain chips over say an MBC is that the safety features of the ECU are retained. By safety features, I mean things which save the engine from damage, like overboost cut-out and limiting boost to 0.5 bar until the engine is warmed up. From memory, there is also an upper temperature limit where boost is again limited.

ie the Mountain chip doesn't restrict boost to "normal" if you're outside the temperature range, but it does retain the standard ECU safety features to limit boost to less than "normal".

In any case, I'm sure you wouldn't want to keep the engine on high boost when the temperature needle is heading for the upper limits.

John

[Elanlover]

After 1 lap the temperature was above halfway on the guage and the boost reduced it's self back to standard.
Is this what it should do,when i sort out the cooling will it work properly .
After getting stuck in a traffic jam today i had the same problem untill it cooled down.

Just reading this again - the needle on the water temp guage will regularly move between 1/4 and 3/4 on the gauge. This is normal operation for the car as the fans don't kick in until the 3/4 mark is reached. If this is what you're seeing its normal. If its something other than this please describe it.

The car has to get very hot before the boost is limited by the ECU. If you're seeing the boost gauge showing only .6 bar that could be completely unrelated to the engine temp. The gauge is notoriously inaccurate, wastegate could be sticking open occassionaly, the ambient air temp could be too warm to get a higher boost pressure, you may have a leak in the inductions somewhere that gets worse when the engine bay gets hot, etc.

[tonny006]

Sorry for not being clear.
I know the fans always kick in at 3/4.

On the track as i set off,the guage was about 1/4 and was steadily rising to 1/2 by the end of the first lap, and by the end of lap 4 it was at the 3/4 mark which as we know is very hot.
each lap is nearly 4 miles.

Thinking about it the boost guage was under the .5 mark but i was concentrating on the road too much to watch it.

As i said it didn't boil up or lose any coolant.

I'm not worried about the cooling issue,I was making sure the boost should reduce it's self

After 1 lap the temperature was above halfway on the guage and the boost reduced it's self back to standard.
Is this what it should do,when i sort out the cooling will it work properly .
After getting stuck in a traffic jam today i had the same problem untill it cooled down.

Just reading this again - the needle on the water temp guage will regularly move between 1/4 and 3/4 on the gauge. This is normal operation for the car as the fans don't kick in until the 3/4 mark is reached. If this is what you're seeing its normal. If its something other than this please describe it.

The car has to get very hot before the boost is limited by the ECU. If you're seeing the boost gauge showing only .6 bar that could be completely unrelated to the engine temp. The gauge is notoriously inaccurate, wastegate could be sticking open occassionaly, the ambient air temp could be too warm to get a higher boost pressure, you may have a leak in the inductions somewhere that gets worse when the engine bay gets hot, etc.

[Elanlover]

The two may not be related then. Sounds like the cooling system was working as it should and if the temp goes to 3/4 there's nothingthat limits the boost at that point (that I know of). An elanscan reading might be useful here if you can reproduce the issue.

[tonny006]

I will try to do a run at the weekend but it is hard to reproduce on the road and keep my licence

[Monty]

Sorry for not being clear.
I know the fans always kick in at 3/4.

On the track as i set off,the guage was about 1/4 and was steadily rising to 1/2 by the end of the first lap, and by the end of lap 4 it was at the 3/4 mark which as we know is very hot.
each lap is nearly 4 miles.

Nope, thats not normal. You`ve got a problem, i can turn my boost up to 1bar and it doesn`t effect the temperature. Your needle should stay at normal running temp (ie 1/4) even on track.

On my 3rd tackday which was at Cadwell i noticed the temp increasing slightly and when i got home the Rad was leaking sligtly at the end tank, took her to the garage where they did the sniffer test and it turn out to be the Head gasket. IMHO get the block test done, you can buy them off ebay.

[tonny006]

Let the fan cut in and i have Just taken it for a thrashing,

Here is the Elanscan result
tony1.ecu

OOPS it didn't work.
How do i post it?

[dapinky]

Let the fan cut in and i have Just taken it for a thrashing,

Here is the Elanscan result
tony1.ecu

OOPS it didn't work.
How do i post it?

Tony,

The coding used on the LEC site doesn't recognise .ecu file extensions, so you need to put them into a .zip file with winzip, winrar or similar program - then attach as normal.

[tonny006]

Thanks Dave,
I will try again tonight.
Tony

[Elanlover]

You might also try posting it in the Elanscan forum as someone might offer up their time to review it for you and make some suggestions.