New Radiator Needed - Is it a GM part?

[Don.Hasi]

but it looks to be upside down

It´s more the view from the mechanic under the car (as I haven´t got mine unmounted I haven´t noticed it, but as all the pictures above are the other way round I have already thought about it thx for the advice)


The 705 vs 700 could be the difference, that I haven´t taken the gap between the frameends, but the space under the frame too. So the values could be really the same Concerning the 527 <-> 529 for the pins: Could it be that the 529 of yours is the space between the several outsideends? My 527 was measured in the middle of both... The "thickness" of the radiator was 42mm. What is yours about?

DeeAitch, thank you for your responding so far. It was a great help

Kind regards

Oups, I have seen another lovely post

Thanks as well nitro I couldn´t find a proper exchangesheet with fractions. Could anyone confirm the mm-values?? And what thickness is yours -the radiator - about?


My DeeA Nitro
815 --- 803,275
705 700 714,375
560 560 555,625
230 230 244,475
527 529 530,225

If the values are right, we -the kias- have a fed nose with a uk-radiator



For all

[nitroman]

35mm is the thickness of the aluminum radiator, 51mm is the thickness of the plastic end-caps.

I spent the last 2 hours getting all the pebbles out of the radiator. Just an unbelievably large pile of them! That should be worth a measurable amount of airflow/cooling.

[DeeAitch]

The 705 vs 700 could be the difference, that I haven´t taken the gap between the frameends, but the space under the frame too. So the values could be really the same Concerning the 527 <-> 529 for the pins: Could it be that the 529 of yours is the space between the several outsideends? My 527 was measured in the middle of both... The "thickness" of the radiator was 42mm. What is yours about?

I confess to being old school so I measured in inches - my figures are converted to mm.

527 v 529 - I measured centre to centre but 2mm is nothing to worry about, maybe down to manufacturing tolerances?

Just checked the old core and the tubes are 32mm but endplates 35mm wide, in line with Nitro's findings, so it looks like your core is thicker.
Also the inlet / outlets are 32mm OD, again in line with Nitro's figures.

[Don.Hasi]

Thanks again to you both So it is cleared: The Kia Elans have a fed nose with the more crashstructure inside, aircon and a thicker radiator who will ever have imagined this?

OK. So, we will have to produce a special one for us. But as we have certainly proofed, that it will fit under the nose, it should be interesting for the fed ones too...

So I will be back in this topic, if we have the first prototype

THX and kind regards
Don

[DeeAitch]

and a thicker radiator who will ever have imagined this?

THX and kind regards
Don

Before you firm this up can you confirm where you are measuring the thickness? Just that the end tanks are much bigger than the core which myself and Nitro refer to.

[Don.Hasi]

I have it done like this. I think you as well?

[nitroman]

Ja.

[Don.Hasi]

Ja.

Well spoken

[Don.Hasi]

Highflow allaluminium larger capacity radiator.


Same dimensions as the stock one with the exception of the thickness with now 52mm. Mounting will follow with a short notice of it.

Kind regards

[londoner]

Don,

any luck with the mounting? What radiator did you get?

[Don.Hasi]

Hi londoner,

Yes, I have done it. I have been the lastweekend under the car for replacing the cooler and uninstall the air conditioning.

Result: Cool Air, but a great action ... insured hands and fingers, an aching back and so on. And as always, you get the feeling that some bolts and washers are coming just from the Titanic...

Our stock cooler has a 1.5 cm air-gap to the condensor of the aircon. The new high-performance allali-radiator is 1cm thicker than the originals (52mm). So regarding your 32mmstock-radiator there must be enough space for him even with the aircon to assemble. But there must be one of you Lotus Turbos who must proof this exactly as your nose is different.

I have asked the manufactury whether they could also build a 42mm variant too for those of you, who want the aircon stay in place, so you get a greater gap between it. But I couldn´t recommend to let the aircon in place. First I have hesitated also to destroy the completeness of the car. But if you look at the pictures, you will see, that the condensor covers the radiator in such a complete way, that any kind of clean-up operations failed. So my cooler died an agonizing heatdeath And the condensor would have been followed in 1 or at least 2 years cause his back wasn´t able to be cleaned too. Furtherwise the dirt of the condensor was sprayed on the radiator too. So it is not only a Lotus-law to add lightness it is necessary with view to the maintnance.

Additionally, the cooler is now of course more efficient, his layout serves more coolness like the plus of material does it twice, it is also nice to keep it clean and -ultimately- it is a wonderful piece and design which could everybody see, who must bowdown in front of the erotic lines of our cars

So i am very happy about the cool breeze in the engine bay: MORE cooling POWER, a weight saving of more than 1,5kg, a better weight distribution, less understeering, …

For the next examples I would have let shortened the manufactury simply the pins at the top a bit, as it has not much space to the construction in my case But this is forced due to handmade carvariations not due the radiator.

Before:










after:




Keep on elaning!

[HJ2]

Wow... Nice one!

[HJ2]

I finally found the time to have mine recored, so i started to remove the bloody thing... The supportbracket is now removed (which was a pain in the a**)
The fan's are still in place, i only removed the lower nuts connected to the supportbracket. The "Y" bracket's are still in place as well, except for the bolts that hold the supportbracket in place, and the radiator lowered a couple of cm's, but i don't get it out.it is not resting on the water connections however.
Any hints anyone how to remove the bugger? How is it mounted on top of the rad? Some help would be much appreciated

Cheers!
Henk-Jan

[Don.Hasi]

HJ: I dont know which chapter is not a pain in the a** … If you have everything free, the radiator hangs in some rubberbushes which are hold in flexible holes of the frame. You have to tear it down AND in the same time you have to look after the rubber, the frame and most of it, on your hands, that nothing is destroyed, hurt, …


If you have this so far… breath free

...it is the same pain to get it in

[muley]

..what Don said - the pins (well the original ones) have a skirt on them which has to be pulled out of the rubber bush at the top. Just yank hard and they should pop out.

My tip for when you refit is; loop cable ties round the lower pins and the y brackets and lift the rad up and pull on the ties. This will hold the rad in place while you juggle to get the rad frame in position. Come to think of it, I don't even bother to remove the ties after the install is complete - they can be easily cut the next time it has to come out - hopefully that's another 15 years away

Rgds

Jim aka muley

[HJ2]

OK, thanks. I'll give it another go tomorrow, but it feels like the rad is allready out of the rubber bushings, but "hangs" on something else. To be continued then

[HJ2]

It's out, thanks!

The endcaps look good, is it safe to use them again for a recore?
It would be perfect if there are replacement caps available...

Unfortunately in NL, a recore takes up to 4 weeks because they have to make one custom for the elan rad.!
Any suggestions how to speed things up so i can be on the road again?

Regards,
Henk-Jan

[Specky]

Send it to the UK...

TTFN

[HJ2]

I considered that as an option... Where would i send it to?

[Specky]

PM Jim (AKA Muley)

usual suspects...SWLC,SJ's, Paul matty's etc

Or send this bloke an email

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8904&p=220561#p220561

TTFN