Sikaflex

[antelope]

A number of people here and there seem to recommend bolstering the top of the window frame with Sikaflex to help stop leaks at either end of the hood seal. Can anyone tell me exactly wich Sikaflex please? There are loads of different types: http://www.sika.co.uk/

And anyway, why Sikaflex? Why not ordinary silicone sealant a la B&Q?

Many thanks
David

[Specky]

221

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SIKAFLEX-221-Cara ... ccessories

Always check the expiry date when buying on ebay

Read the Manuals

TTFN

[muley]

A number of people here and there seem to recommend bolstering the top of the window frame with Sikaflex to help stop leaks at either end of the hood seal. Can anyone tell me exactly wich Sikaflex please? There are loads of different types: http://www.sika.co.uk/

And anyway, why Sikaflex? Why not ordinary silicone sealant a la B&Q?

Many thanks
David

Why not, indeed. That's what I use to patch up a-post seals. Note it doesn't stick to cling flim wet or dry

Jim

[antelope]

Thanks. I have to say I'm tempted to simply go the ordinary silicone mastic bathroom sealant and window sealant route. Cheaper, available, easier to remove if need be...

[dapinky]

The difference is that sikaflex 221 is an 'elastic adhesive', which will give a flexible seal, wheras everyday silicone is a 'flexible sealant' which will stick to stuff!

For repair to the seals, i can't see why either would do......

For sticking roof seals to the channels, either would work, but 221 would be my preference.......

For other things i have used standard black RTV sealant......

Sikaflex (once opened) will go off quite quickly - okay in a factory where it is in constant use, but not good in a home garage.....

It was used at the factory to hold pannels together on the car, so it made sence to use it for other things, but it doesn't mean that silicone wouldn't do an adequate job.

[antelope]

Well I caught in heavy rain the other day and discovered that I have serious leaks on driver and passenger side of the top windscreen rail, where the header seal on the roof lies along the length of the windscreen. So a key requirement is to use something that will mold to the shape of the roof seal when the roof is clamped down [with cling film applied]. I'd have thought Silicone sealant would do this as well as sikaflex...

What does everyone else use for this problem? Is everyone using Sikaflex 221?

[keithlard]

I used Sikaflex 221 when I topped up my A-post seals recently, and it wasn't that expensive (£10 the tube on eBay, which was about twice as much as I actually needed for the job).

It worked extremely well. Primed with LEC knowledge, I applied the gunk (while wearing gloves!) and covered it with a strip of clingfilm and then shut the door and roof on it to mould to the perfect shape. Within 2 or 3 days it was dry enough to remove the clingfilm and enjoy my newly waterproofed car.

Whether ordinary household silicone sealant would do the job as well I can't say, but one thing to bear in mind is that Sikaflex 221 is intended for boat repairs, so it has to stand up to the very worst weather, which probably isn't true of regular silicone.

[antelope]

Well I've taken a different approach to this.

Firstly I've saturated the rubbers with silicon lubricant, soaking them several times over several days. They're all now soft and black and puffed up and water repellant.

Secondly, I took a very small amount of clear silicon mastic and just filled in the right angles that occur between the top of the side seals and the header rail where they fold over the header rail at each end. I also filled in the right angled edge between the header rail and the little angle plate at each end. The header seal now doesn't have to try and form a seal across these right angled edges.

Thirdly, I stuck a square of heavy duty velcro onto the clamp itself on the flat that the roller moves over as it clamps the roof down, and I stuck the other half of the velcro to the first, leaving the backing plastic on, effectivey making the flat much thicker so now the clamp pulls the roof down much harder onto the header rail.

Finally, I replaced the large washers under the screws that hold the clamp to the softtop frame with slightly smaller diameter ones, meaning that I can now move the clamp half a mm further back, which has the effect of pushing the header seal more firmly against the front of the header rail.

Just tried it out in some rain and there is a lot of improvement...I don't seem to be getting a leak from the ends of header rail itself now [although a more rigorous test is needed]. Although, when I lift the wet roof, I see that water still appears between the front of the header rail and the header seal, so I need to perhaps square off those washers so I can pull the clamps even further back.

[quantum]

Is it possible for you to take some photo's of your good work and if possible point out where you have added things and put smaller washers etc... Also what product you used to expand the rubbers

(a picture paint a thousand words and all that).....

Thanks

Ian

[antelope]

OK Ian...will do when I have a chance to.

[antelope]

In response to an earler request to provide photos to the text in mt earlier posting..here we are...

>>Well I've taken a different approach to this.

Firstly I've saturated the rubbers with silicon lubricant, soaking them several times over several days. They're all now soft and black and puffed up and water repellant.




Secondly, I took a very small amount of clear silicon mastic...




...and just filled in the right angles that occur between the top of the side seals and the header rail where they fold over the header rail at each end. I also filled in the right angled edge between the header rail and the little angle plate at each end. The header seal now doesn't have to try and form a seal across these right angled edges.



Thirdly, I stuck a square of heavy duty velcro...





... onto the clamp itself on the flat that the roller moves over as it clamps the roof down, and I stuck the other half of the velcro to the first, leaving the backing plastic on, effectivey making the flat much thicker so now the clamp pulls the roof down much harder onto the header rail.






Finally, I replaced the large washers under the screws that hold the clamp to the softtop frame with slightly smaller diameter ones, meaning that I can now move the clamp half a mm further back, which has the effect of pushing the header seal more firmly against the front of the header rail.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Just tried it out in some rain and there is a lot of improvement...I don't seem to be getting a leak from the ends of header rail itself now [although a more rigorous test is needed]. Although, when I lift the wet roof, I see that water still appears between the front of the header rail and the header seal, so I need to perhaps square off those washers so I can pull the clamps even further back.

[quantum]

Brilliant, thanks for taking the time to show what you have done, your ideas are certainly worth a try to see if it is possible to have a dry leg and carpets.... Where else would you get a response from enthusiast like this.

Cheers

Ian

[antelope]

You're welcome Ian..hope it does some good.