Turbo overhaul query

[Specky]

What's the easiest way to seperate the turbine housing from the main assy?

I've removed three of the four bolts and the bitchy bolt is about half way out. (The plate is well loose, the other is removed)

All I've manage to do is mess up both ends of my Nylon faced hammer...

Then I went on to the 2lb lump hammer and a descent bit of wood.... (It's not anymore)

Then I tried to twist it with a strap wrench. I ran out of umphhh.

So.... is there a sweat spot as such to hit it on, or another technique?

(I don't have access to any heat at the moment, and it's soaked in WD40)

TIA

TTFN

[dapinky]

Dave,

You've already established what you need to do when you say "I don't have access to heat at the moment"

I found (like you) that the 'usual' methods of removal were not so good - so used a blowlamp to heat up the metal - not too hot, just enough to break the rust seal and give a slight expansion.

Be aware that it needs to come off 'straight' as there is tight tollerance between the turbine blades and the housing - and when you put it back togeteher, a small tap with a mallet can make a big difference to how it runs - so remember to give the shaft a spin as you reasseble it - even a slight touch between blades and housing will be heard, and can lead to catastophic failure at high rpms.

[esprit888]

WD 40 is not your friend for jobs like this, the best product is PB blaster, but if not available there used to be a product in the UK called 'plus gas' (going back few years on that one ) or a similar 'penatrating spray'. WD 40 is more of a lubricant than an agressive rust penatrant.

What's the easiest way to seperate the turbine housing from the main assy?

I've removed three of the four bolts and the bitchy bolt is about half way out. (The plate is well loose, the other is removed)

All I've manage to do is mess up both ends of my Nylon faced hammer...

Then I went on to the 2lb lump hammer and a descent bit of wood.... (It's not anymore)

Then I tried to twist it with a strap wrench. I ran out of umphhh.

So.... is there a sweat spot as such to hit it on, or another technique?

(I don't have access to any heat at the moment, and it's soaked in WD40)

TIA

TTFN

[JonT]

WD 40 is not your friend for jobs like this, the best product is PB blaster, but if not available there used to be a product in the UK called 'plus gas' (going back few years on that one ) or a similar 'penatrating spray'. WD 40 is more of a lubricant than an agressive rust penatrant.

PlusGas is definitely still around (picked up some a couple of weeks ago) and would agree it's definitely better than WD40. Probably not best used in conjunction with a blowtorch though!

[Specky]

Cheers Dave,

I'll do it tomorrow when I have got heat and a proper hammer...


TTFN

[Monty]

A fecking lump hammer, if you want to crack the cartridge wonder how i know that

is it the cartridge or the alloy turbine housing your trying to remove?

[Specky]

Cartridge... The compressor housing came off no worries... and then went back on again whilst hammers were flying...

TTFN

[muley]

Dave

Been there, done that.

You HAVE to heat it up then use your rubber hammer on it. After a while the hammer looks pretty sad. Try to play the flames of the torch (I use mygas-fired plumbing one!) on the outside as much as possible - you are trying to get it to expand. Be patient, mine took a long time to shift...

Do it over some wood or old carpet because when it does fall off it might crack if it drops onto concrete.

HTH

Jim

[GeoffSmith]

WD 40 is not your friend for jobs like this, the best product is PB blaster, but if not available there used to be a product in the UK called 'plus gas' (going back few years on that one ) or a similar 'penatrating spray'. WD 40 is more of a lubricant than an agressive rust penatrant.

WD for waterproofing (Mini distributors and leads), light cleaning, short term rustproofing and removing works parking tickets from door windows.

You HAVE to heat it up then use your rubber hammer on it. After a while the hammer looks pretty sad.

Get yourself a copper mallet - one of the best tools I ever bought. You can apply a lot more force then plastic/rubber mallets and it doesn't melt.

[PECKHS]

Bobbrown refurbished my turbo a few months back. Maybe he can help?

[bobbrown]

Peckhs,

Yours was not that difficult to seperate the snail from the cartridge but it still took a little effort with a small copper/hide mallet to get the two apart.
Once in two bits it was easy enough to clean up the faces so that it went back together easily.
Hide/copper mallet would be my tool of choice, Thor is a name that springs to mind and I used a small one as that's the one I use for setting the machines.
They work better than a rubber hammer or a block of wood and hammer but a bit of heat will always help if you heat the snail only that should expand slightly more than than the cartridge although some heat will transfer to the cartridge a case of gerring one bit hotter than the other. Ones things for sure unless you go mad with the heat you should not damage anything as they are designed to take a lot of heat, cherry red may be a step too far.

Bob

[Monty]

Hide mallet would be my tool of choice

How is one to find one of those then

[Specky]

Had another go today, and failed...

I used a 600 degree C heat gun on full blast, I checked the temprature of the housing with our optical pyrometer, it was just over 200 degrees the cartridge was about 40 degrees...smoke was coming of the turbo.

At this point there was quite a few people watching, the joy of working with a couple of hundred engineers. There was no shortage of advice... And not all helpful...

One quick question, is the assembly an interference fit?

Do you think it's viable or even possible to remove the turbine and press it out?

Anyway back to the drawing board

TTFN

[bobbrown]

The two halves are not an interference fit, that much I can garantee having worked with Holset turbos in the past lots of them, because other wise you would not be able to turn the "snail" to get the turbo cartridge in to the correct position for the oil drain.

You can not get the turbine out with out first removing the snail so pressing it out is not an option, just wondering if there is may be a way of jacking it out so you are applying pressure to it while tapping with a hammer. email me some pictures and I'll have a think about it.
A piece of tube an a nut and bolt may do the trick, place the nut on the bolt and screw to towards the head and place inside a the tube then if it is of the correct length you may be able to place it between the snail and somewhere on the cartridge and then wind the nut down the bolt instant jack.
Problem is where do you press against you need somewhere reasonable strong so you do not break the casting on the cartridge, do not think you will break the snail but car is needed

Bob

[Specky]

Jackscrews could be the answer, but like you say where to safely react ???

TTFN

[Specky]

At three in the morning I've just a brain wave... Heat + riveting hammer+ elephants foot+ wood = a lot of heat and a lot of noise and hopefully success.

Back to sleep

TTFN

[RayD]

Pictures would be helpful Dave

Ray

[tigerdog]

At three in the morning I've just a brain wave... + elephants foot+

And just where do you plan to find an elephant at 3 AM???

[GeoffSmith]

At three in the morning I've just a brain wave... + elephants foot+

And just where do you plan to find an elephant at 3 AM???

Mistress Whiplash of Swindon - all fantasies catered for.

[esprit888]

Yup, it happens, I just bought a fully loaded Impulse RS turbo AWD and the reason i got it for such a steal (500 GBP )was that the owner had tried to replace the turbo, and in attempting to remove the compressor housing with a hammer he cracked it. I will post in the parts wanted section but anyone have a spare turbo ?????

A fecking lump hammer, if you want to crack the cartridge wonder how i know that

is it the cartridge or the alloy turbine housing your trying to remove?