Yet another Headgasket post

[saska]

Well, no luck with 2nd person to apply the brakes + a large breaker bar (700 mm or so)
So tomorrow try to block the pulley with a plat of metal bolted to pulley holes and lower engine strut...

Henk-Jan, try saska's alternative method at the bottom of THIS PAGE in the fine Wiki.
See the photo in the same place.

[dapinky]

Well, no luck with 2nd person to apply the brakes + a large breaker bar (700 mm or so)
So tomorrow try to block the pulley with a plat of metal bolted to pulley holes and lower engine strut...

Bloody hell, is this time consuming!

Hen-Jan,

I think your breaker bar may be too short!

I used a scaffold bar (about 2m long) slipped over my good breaker bar, and it still needed a good pull with 100kg of me on the end

[HJ2]

Holy cow! Unbelievable that the bolt itself survived that load !
I borrowed an air impact wrench, will try tomorrow again. If no luck, I intend to block the pulley with a sheet of metal and some holes as described in one of the links. If it works I'll have one laser-cut. Perhaps make a nice group buy

[ovi]

If you need a big impact wrench, let me now!
Loose in one second!

[racerstev]

""""""saska's Alternative Method
This is adapted from the method suggested in Aamir BT's Isuzone write up on how to change the cambelt, tensioner, idler, water pump, crankshaft seal and camshaft seals. you can get the full article at http://www.kact.co.uk/lec/replacing_timing_belt.pdf The basic method relies upon the starter motor having a lot of torque via the flywheel. Put a good quality 17mm socket on the cranshaft bolt, rotate the engine until the handle faces forwards and down towards the large hole in the plastic under tray under the front bumper. Fit a strong bar/breaker bar to the socket so the handle goes through the hole in the undertray. Then fit a length of strong scaffold pole or whatever to extend to the ground in front of the engine. Ensure the car is in neutral, rear wheels chocked and hand brake on. I pulled the spark plug leads so the engine can't start. Then just turn the key to hit the starter briefly (1 second), just enough to spin the engine a bit. Mine made a ping noise when it cracked the tension on the bolt. After that the bolt should be cracked loose and you can easily remove it with your hand. Note: it is essential the bar is going toward the front of the car.""""""""""""

This works so so well, I've used it a few times. I just layed the breaker bar on the frame and tapped the starter..

Steve

[muley]

The method I use (three time now!) was suggested by John W. Get a metal plate from a diy shop about 80 x 100 mm and drill holes in it to line up with the holes in the pulley, plus another hole to line up with the engine mount on the chassis rail. Bolt it in place and use a breaker bar (plus scaffolding pole if required) to undo the nut.

Works every time


Jim

[HJ2]

Thanks guys! I've read about all the alternatives, but since my pulley was removed about a year ago for the timing belt, I thought it wouldn't be that much of a problem....

I almost bought another air impact wrench (1460 N/M from Hazet!) But am now in the progress of making the bracket first. I'll try to laser cut, so I can make a couple more if there is enough interest.

Saska's method has my interest, but only as a last resort

[muley]

Bizarrely each bracket had to be custom made every time...no two cars the same.


Jim

[HJ2]

I have designed a universal model. I just finished up the prototype, which worked like a charm....









Well, at least the bracket survived some hefty abuse, unill the bolts sheared. They are now in my pulley
Before this incident I spent all morning with 3 different air impact wrenches... no luck.
On top of that, my compressor died on me just now. I now feel the urge to set the car on fire!

Sure that bolt is normal threaded?

I'll give it a go with a large breaker bar and someone to step on the brakes. Last resort is to buy a compressor and air wrench they use on trucks

[bobbrown]

May be it was put back with loctite

Not sure if this will work but you could take the selector off the gearbox and engage two gears thus in effect locking the gear box, only problem may be is it could damage the gearbox but should not be any worse than standing on the brakes.

Or drop the sump and wedge the crank with a hammer.

lock crank.jpg

Bob

[muley]

..it's a normal thread


Jim

[HJ2]

Well... I just added some extra leverage to the equation. I disassembled the garage Jack and used the 1.5 m. Aluminium pole for leverage. Car in 5th, stamp on the brakes and....PING!
Finally Success!

Let's hope that this is not somehow connected to the infamous unlocked 5th gear nut on the gearbox

Finally I can remove the timing belt side of things and remove the head.
I Just need to know if I can leave the turbo in situ, connected to the exhaust, and take out just the head with the intake manifold still on it, or do i need to remove the exhaust manifold + turbo first?

Let's break things better!

[ovi]

I Last resort is to buy a compressor and air wrench they use on trucks

That's what I used !

[RayD]

...

A related thread.

Ray

[HJ2]

So, with the timing belt off,
All paths on front & sides of engine clean, I am about to take the head off now.
I could do with some expert advice though (again!)

1. If I read correct, I can lift the head a couple of inches and then undo all the stuff from the backside of the intake plenum. Is there stuff I absolutely need to remove beforehand? So before try to lift off the head the first couple of inches?

2. The cam Cover was very very sticky to remove. I Suspect the Head gasket will be the same. What can I do best to break the seal between engine and head?

Pictures (a lot!) to follow soon!

[ovi]

I sent you a mail!

[racerstev]

You need to be careful lifting the head off, there are 2 very sharp locating dowel pins that stick out of the block.
You can make a real mess of the sealing surface if you let them dig into the head. I found a lift or come along
the best way to remove the head w/o damage.

Steve

[HJ2]

Thanks Steve and Ivo

The head is out!
I made good use of my home made lift to ease out the head whilst watching that noting gets stuck or damaged! (I Took my time)
The seal of the gasket was easy to break (with bare hands) and the gasket sticked to the block, not on the head and thus protected the block from accidents (which didn't happen )

I am glad that I took my time, made lot's of notes and even more pictures and stored all parts in labelled zip bags. All loose end in the engine bay are marked with white tie wraps so I can easily see I f I forget something during reassemble It may be overkill, but since this is a first timer for me and all...

Also now I can see the the whole operation was really necessary as there is a connected path between Cylinder and Water ways on the front of he No 1 Cylinder!

Next step is to remove the intake plenum off the head and give everything a good clean. I found a guy who can do the skimming in my neighbourhood. I'll keep you posted of my progress (or lack of it) and fire some more questions without a doubt!

Time to sort my piccies now

[muley]

Well done.. .. and a Happy New year to you



Jim

[HJ2]

Everything worth mentioning is now out or off... How the hell Can I reassemble this again?