| Home | WikiLEC | Repairs | Upgrades | Gallery | Buy & Sell | Mountain Chips | Meets & Events | Contact |
|
Moderators: theelanman, dapinky, Specky, clemo, Nige, Sy V, Dave Eds, DaveT, Elanlover, muley, Enright, algirdas, nitroman, GeoffSmith
dapinky wrote:When i got my hard top from Tony at Donington, we couldn't be ar$ed to work out how to get the brackets off his car in the car park (so it was attached with cableties to get me home).
I then sent an e-mail to Simon at SPC, and he kindly sent me a copy of the drawings for the plates. He didn't have the drawings for the hooks due to a computer crash.
Contrary to the above post (and what we thought whilst looking at Tonys car!!!), once you see the drawing it becomes clear that due to the slotted design of one of the holes, there should be no need to remove the frame from the car, just removing one bolt (easily accessible), and slackening off another one to allow the plate to be lifted away.
As such, i still need to find someone to knock up a couple of the plates (quite simple if you know what you're doing!) and then try and find someone who has a hook lying around to allow it to be copied.
However, as summer is nearly here, I'm not in a huge rush to do alot about it at the moment (too much else on my plate).
If it helps, I'm happy to send you a copy of what Simon sent to me.
dapinky wrote:When i got my hard top from Tony at Donington, we couldn't be ar$ed to work out how to get the brackets off his car in the car park (so it was attached with cableties to get me home).
I then sent an e-mail to Simon at SPC, and he kindly sent me a copy of the drawings for the plates. He didn't have the drawings for the hooks due to a computer crash.
Contrary to the above post (and what we thought whilst looking at Tonys car!!!), once you see the drawing it becomes clear that due to the slotted design of one of the holes, there should be no need to remove the frame from the car, just removing one bolt (easily accessible), and slackening off another one to allow the plate to be lifted away.
As such, i still need to find someone to knock up a couple of the plates (quite simple if you know what you're doing!) and then try and find someone who has a hook lying around to allow it to be copied.
However, as summer is nearly here, I'm not in a huge rush to do alot about it at the moment (too much else on my plate).
If it helps, I'm happy to send you a copy of what Simon sent to me.
)jHamshaw wrote:If it's a Kuching hardtop like mine below, you should have received 2 brackets that fit onto the hood mounting bolts, and 2 metal hooks (about 4" long) that bolt to these brackets and extend upwards to meet the rear clips. You also need to fit the hooks the right way round to avoid damage to the soft-top seals!
If you didn't get them (and they look like they're a pain to fit/remove as the hood frame has to be unbolted from the car) they may be available from Simon at http://www.spcdesign.co.uk/
jHamshaw wrote:Nope - just the rear lid and bolts, hinges stay in situ in the "closed" position.
With hood down and folded properly (I put a rolled towel in the rear window fold to keep it at a decent radius) the rear clips can be located in the hooks with a bit of downward pressure, and clipping them up pulls everything down nice and tight.
Did you get the brackets and hooks sorted then?
lansledj wrote:Rest of the seals on a normal hood are held on with sikaflex 221 so that may work
David
rip wrote:The pic shows an SPC Designs hard top, made by Kutching from this forum.
Don't think that these are a solution to a leaky roof. They do not provide a perfect seal & without the ability to easily peel back the roof when the sun does come out, any moisture gets trapped inside.
jecuk wrote:They provide a great seal. Where did you get the impression that they don't?
Scott wrote:so it doesnt seems good at all...ok! just a thought...
Return to Hood/Top, Bodywork and Fittings
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests