'stuck' turbo

[Hammy360]

Hi Im brand new here so I was hoping someone can help. Im looking a buying an Elan with a 'stuck' turbo. Is its just a case of getting another one and bolting it on or is there something else that could be causing?

[paulsmithmk]

Hi Im brand new here so I was hoping someone can help. Im looking a buying an Elan with a 'stuck' turbo. Is its just a case of getting another one and bolting it on or is there something else that could be causing?

when you say stick do you mean its just not working or is there a known problem? search here or wiki for wastgate wiggle as it may be as simple as that or if it has a Cat that could be the problem...

[rip]

That's a bit vague. Who knows what is wrong?
It could be a simple fault like a stuck wastegate (which is a free fix) or it could be a completely seized turbo.
The Elan's turbo does not often give serious trouble, but play it safe & ask yourself why the seller wants to get rid of the car without fixing it first.

Unless you have negotiated a price which allows you to fit a replacement turbo, I would walk away if the seller does not fix it first.

[Hammy360]

Hi gents, how does the CAT effect the turbo? I'll check on the wastegate thingy

[rip]

When the cat breaks up, it blocks the exhaust. Spent charge can't flow quickly enough for the ECU to decide it should shut the wastegate & therefore activate the turbo, even at high revs.
If this is the issue, you MAY be able to hear the internals of the cat rattling.

[Pascal]

Hello,

i am still investigating why my turbo doesn't give what it used to ( maxi 0,5 b , i had 0,65 and more power for sure a month ago).

i looked at the "wiki for wastgate wiggle" and unfortunately i did not manage to take the shield off.
BUT !
at least, i managed to unscrew the 3 screws of the capsule frame, moved this bow part and noticed that the rod was moving without effort.

then , put back the bow 3 screws in place .
If you have experienced that, you know this third screw down there ... you can reach this place only if you have flexible steel fingers, 10 ' ' long.

I managed to put the screw relatively easily, and that is something that could help someone else :
first : shaping (grinding) a flat wrench to have only the necessary shape to screw.
second : gluing with araldite a simple thin string 15 '' long , on the head of the screw.
after placing the screw in the wrench, only a bit of tension on the string gives a good control of the screw in the tool.
of course, the screw will fall as usual at least once, but the string is then the good friend to have it back immediately in hand, and loose no time.
That way, it was easier to put the screw than remove it.

Well , still 0,5 bar ...
Pascal

[norman lovie]

you,ve got a boost control valve that regulates how much pressure goes to the actuator to open help the waste gate via the actuator
If all the pressure goes to the actuator unregulated you have base boost only
if no pressure goes to the actuator - you have LOTS of boost - enough to exceed the overboost limit and induce the oveboost engine protection shut down

you can play with this to try and determine if your boost issue is mechanical or a control issue

stick the small hose from the compressor direct to the actuator ( base boost) what do you get ? - 0.5Bar ??
take the hose off "BE CAREFULL" you are now controlling with your foot - trying to confirm you can build more boost - but without hitting overboost cut - best to work up to this with initially relatively gradual acceleration, then progressively be more aggressive with the throttle - if you don't get any more - then the issue is mechanical, if you get plenty! - the issue is control i.e. a leaking control hose - the boost control valve is stuck etc..

[paulsmithmk]

Hello,

i am still investigating why my turbo doesn't give what it used to ( maxi 0,5 b , i had 0,65 and more power for sure a month ago).

i looked at the "wiki for wastgate wiggle" and unfortunately i did not manage to take the shield off.
BUT !
at least, i managed to unscrew the 3 screws of the capsule frame, moved this bow part and noticed that the rod was moving without effort.

then , put back the bow 3 screws in place .
If you have experienced that, you know this third screw down there ... you can reach this place only if you have flexible steel fingers, 10 ' ' long.

I managed to put the screw relatively easily, and that is something that could help someone else :
first : shaping (grinding) a flat wrench to have only the necessary shape to screw.
second : gluing with araldite a simple thin string 15 '' long , on the head of the screw.
after placing the screw in the wrench, only a bit of tension on the string gives a good control of the screw in the tool.
of course, the screw will fall as usual at least once, but the string is then the good friend to have it back immediately in hand, and loose no time.
That way, it was easier to put the screw than remove it.

Well , still 0,5 bar ...
Pascal

on this third bolt i found it best to start with this one first but access it from underneath the car - dont over thighten it until you have the other two in place but you should find it much easier this way.

have you tried to presurise the system to see if you have a leak