base timing

[de_stanny]

hi everybody,

i am still searching to the solution of the issue i have with my basetiming,

when i put my car in servicemode and have it running nice and hot and i try to put it on 16 btdc i cant get it anywhere close to the scale on the engine block ...
could it be when they have replaced the cambelt they did remove the pully and did not position it in the wright way ? or is it only one way to put the pully on ???

second thing , the mark is not stable jumping around a bit .... basicly i dont have a clue what its running on , just by trail and error moved it around a bit until the car run the best i could .
not having a stable mark in service mode made me think about some play on the pick up or axcel of the unit , i couldnt detect any play on the unit but when i tried to spin it i felt some resistence like it was clicking ... shouldnt it run smooth ?? or is it because of the sensors or something ???

3th i finally managed to hook it up to elanscan and then the timing in iddle was jumping between 4 and 8 degrees ??? how does the sensors know where the tdc is located ?

hope to find some answers to my problem , thx

de_stanny

[HJ2]

Hi Stan,

I cannot help you a lot further, but perhaps a little in the right direction.

Are you sure the car is in service mode when you start adjusting base timing? Did you gently increase RPM's above 2.000 so IAC valve has been reset?
The Pulley can only be fixed in one way, I would not look here for a solution as the first thing.

The CAS, the Cam Angle Sensor has a magnetic pickup inside. Each time a notch in the resolver wheel passes, you feel a little resistance. If you take the black cap off the CAS (Engine off and after that fingers away!)you can see the notches and the pickup. In fact, you can take the whole assembly off quite easy (remove the hex bolt that keeps it in position) so you can examine the part and see if the bearings are OK. This also gives you the chance to examine the flexible clutch on the axle of the CAS (these tend to break sometimes) and you will be able to adjust the position of the magnetic pickup as per WIKI.
The CAS gives the exact CAM position to the car's computer.

If you have checked the CAS and found it's OK, perhaps you could check if the timing belt is correctly positioned on the CAM wheels. If timing is out so much, and the CAS is OK, i would guess that there might be a problem with the belt...

Good luck!

[rip]

Sounds to me like your CAS may be failing.

[DeeAitch]

This happened to me when the CAS drive pin gave up. Someone on here also had problems with wear on the CAS to cam drive dog. The resistance when turning the CAS is normal, suprising ammount of effort required which must transmit back to the drive dog causing some wear after all this time.
If that is al OK then I think you need to check the cam timing. Crank pulley can only go on one way, same as cam pulleys but it is easy to get the timing marks one tooth out.

[Faraday]

Hi De Stanny, if it is the CAS assembly, take the black plastic cover off, with the engine OFF, then see if the wheel has any play in it. Mine had a few mm doing nothing, upon taking the whole assembly off a piece of the shaft had sheared and was lying in the engine block just inside the hole the CAS goes into. A new CAS assembly has sorted it.

[de_stanny]

thx , for the info guys,

i will first check if i have any play on the rotor in the CAS assembly , if thats not the case i will have to check the belt....

any sugestions on how to check the belt lineup without removing the engine mount ???

keep you posted on the progress,

the resistence of the shaft is exactly what i noticed, so thats ok .

grtz ,

Tom

[de_stanny]

Hi All,

checked the Cas this morning and there is a litlle play on it , but its minimal dont believe that this is going to give the diff on the egnition i see.

then start looking on how to check the diff timing points on the belt , but ran into a problem with one of the bolts on the top belt cover ...

the one bolt in the back is nearly unreachable , there is an airco hose and 2 other hose conection verry close togheter that are blocking the acces to the bolt...

anybody knows what do with those ?

need to run to get a 1/4 inch wrench and a small screwdriver for the TPS sensor , it seems that it reads 0,36V wich is 0% and when i floor it it doesnt go to 100%.

grtz,

De stanny

[de_stanny]

Hi All,

just giving you an update,

i checked the timing beld and it was in line .... but it had a lot of play on it ... so i setted it to spec, now my timing is not jumping all over the place any more .

it was a hell off a job to get some of the engine mounts off in the small space you have ... but its done lol.

i also adjusted my TPS and now the RPM stays stable in and out of service mode

and while i was at it i changed the cooling fluid but it doesnt seems to bring the temp to 1/4 of the scale it only went down a little bit from the 1/2 mark , will have to do it again i think ...
or maybe my thermostat is not opening completly after 23 years of service , i can see its running stable around 94 C in cool conditions on elanscan .... it seems a litle high compared with other scans i saw here...

greetz de_Stanny,

[Brit-Car-Nut]

How long has it been since you changed the timing belt? They will stretch a bit, but not very much and if you had to manually adjust it, I would suspect it is stretching abnormally and is about to break.

Belts are cheap but engine rebuilds are not.

[de_stanny]

yes i am planning on doing that next ....

But for now it will have to do , until next weekend ....

grtz, de_stanny.

i have ordered @ new fan"s aswell as one was not working any more ...

[de_stanny]

Hi all,

replaced the belts today , so she is good to go now

replaced the thermostat aswell ....there was a 195 F in her ... replaced it with a 180 F and the needle stays on 1/4 of the gauge

so one more thing thats set wright , fans are next ... when they come in lol,

greetz de_stanny