Sump replacement

[Fredjohn]

Pretty sure I have cracked my sump on those lovely smooth flat Belgian roads

Have read what I can find here, on WikiLEC and manual, not that there is much in the manual.
Workshop times suggest 1.4hrs to replace the sump!
Established I need to remove both the front exhaust pipe and the prongeron. To do this I must support the chassis and not move it at all so that the suspension does not move to make reassembly possible.

I plan to support the hubs as well as the body on seperate axle stands (I have 4) to prevent any movement. Anyone any photos of the underside so I can identify the prongeron and relevant bolts etc etc?? And does anyone have any good tips to ease the whole process?

I intend to get the sump welded.

Unless someone has a good unwanted spare? I also have a rocking horse which eats a lot so can do a swap if necessary

Any advice welcome
Thanks
John

[Mike_H]

Hi John , I had to replace my prongeron and sump a few years ago .
I suported it at the jacking points using axle stands with an aluminium bung but you could use a large socket.
The hardest part is jacking the car up then supporting it around the raft section and then getting the axle stand under the jacking point on both sides.
Heres some pictures that I took.
Mike.

[Fredjohn]

Mike
Many thanks for photos and tips: a real help in getting off the prongeron.
But I am now struggling to get exhaust off with well rusted studs into pre-cat pot. Any ideas on how to remove the brass (?) nuts. Did try with a socket but started to round the corners.



If ever I get it off I am planning to take it to Coventry Boring & Metal. They repair all sorts of engine components etc etc see website http://www.coventryboring.co.uk/

Seem a genuine company and reckon to turn it around in 2-3 days.

Will keep you imformed on progress.
John

[Jeemy]

I've had a bit of success using a dremel with a fine point to grind away all the rust and break the seal between the bolts, washers & retainers. For these ones I used a 3-foot breaker bar and Halfrauds Professional sockets I think they are called; they are quite thin and so fit onto these tight corners and they are lifetime warrantied so if you break the socket, you get a fresh one!

[Brit-Car-Nut]

I know this is posted elsewhere but I thought it best to get the info where it is being discussed.

I looked up the Isuzu part number for the sump and there were actually two different part numbers but part number 8970310180 supercedes the earlier number.

The number is STILL ACTIVE at Isuzu but they do not have any in the US warehouse and there are none on order for the US warehouse. They will supply on a part order basis only, that means it is no longer considered a stocking item.

The lead time is 4 to 5 weeks. The price for the sump is currently $169.50 and several dealers show a small discount. The best price I found was $136.00 plus $25.00 shipping to my address.

Shipping from my address to the UK by Parcel2Go is around $100.00 That is 3 day service, but really could be a bit longer due to Customs, etc.

Shipping by USPS Priority Mail (6 to 10 days) is $75.00 and Express Mail (3 to 5 days) is $85.00.

A group buy might be a consideration, but with a lead time of at least a month, is it really feasable? The order would need to be paid for in advance and then they would be shipped to a central location for re-shipment.

I checked and Amazon doesn't list them as well as Rock Auto. I believe Dorman has discontinued their replacement sump as I couldn't find any at any Dorman sockist in the US.

The pan from a Geo Storm is supposed to be a direct match and there are a few used ones around the US.

If anyone wants to have the details and place an order directly, send me an email and I will give you the details of who I spoke with at Isuzu dealers in the US.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Mike
Many thanks for photos and tips: a real help in getting off the prongeron.
But I am now struggling to get exhaust off with well rusted studs into pre-cat pot. Any ideas on how to remove the brass (?) nuts. Did try with a socket but started to round the corners.

If ever I get it off I am planning to take it to Coventry Boring & Metal. They repair all sorts of engine components etc etc see website http://www.coventryboring.co.uk/

Seem a genuine company and reckon to turn it around in 2-3 days.

Will keep you imformed on progress.
John

John:

The threads on the studs look pretty bad so trying to thread off the nuts will probably not end well.

The fastest way to remove the nuts when in a tight area is to drill them in 2 places going from the bottom toward the flange. I use a 1/8" bit and a little lube and a lot of patience. Once drilled, you can usually hit the area with a sharp chissel and the nut will split and fall off. You will need to repair the heavily rusted threads on the studs before you will be able to put new nuts on.

You might end up having to remove and replace the studs. If that happens, maybe consider the Piper front pipe or their cat replacement?

A muffler shop would have special nut-crackers and heat wrenches (torches) to make their job easier.

[ccb056]

Kroil is the best lubricant I've used to attack rusted components. It made the exhaust/turbo work much easier....

[GeoffSmith]

I didn't even think about saving any of mine John and they didn't look quite as bad as yours. Plenty of penetrating oil and a pipe wrench on the nuts got the studs out though.

[daveiow]

Well some good news at last.
MOT yesterday and passed with no advisories
Took the opportunity to give the sump a good looking at and although there was signs of old damage and the "grinding" from Ypres there were no cracks,splits or leaks.
Exhaust and Prongeron ok
Agreed with Tester that I would not get away with it again!
Thinking how to proceed I think leave it till winter/spring take it off and reinforce it with a wear plate to help cope with the inevitable future abuse

daveiow

[Steve A]

Thinking how to proceed I think leave it till winter/spring take it off and reinforce it with a wear plate to help cope with the inevitable future abuse

Given the fallout from Ypres it's probably a good idea, at least you'd be able to approach the heavily cambered roads with an air of confidence.

I think an armour plated sump will be on my "to do list" before next years adventure, or a jockey wheel welded to the sump

[Fredjohn]

4 days of worrying how do I get off the exhaust, half an hour actually getting it off

Thanks for heat wrench tip John C, worked a treat. New studs and nuts on order from SJ Sports

Sump going in tomorrow for repair and possible strengthening.





Smile slowly returning to face

[Fredjohn]

Sump split now welded up and with a 3" square 3mm thick plate welded on to strengthen it. Cost me all of £10. Turned out Coventry Boring and Metal only do ally welding, not steel, so had to hunt around Coventry to find a steel fabricator, who did it within the hour.

Pictures to follow once I've fixed the tumble drier and dishwasher which both chose to fail this week

Sump now refitted, not leaking and engine running OK with full oil pressure

Thanks to all for advice and tips.

One benefit of having to remove the sump is that the oil filter is dead easy to change. Maybe next year I'll do it all over again just to make the oil/filter change an easier job

[HJ2]

Pictures to follow once I've fixed the tumble drier and dishwasher which both chose to fail this week

Sounds a bit like my month. Everything i look at fails, breaks down or gets worn out... Starting with the Lotus on Ypres Lotus Day... This is getting expensive

[Pascal]

good news HJ2 !
This means that the summer will be a great time for you, problems occur now when the weather is awfull (with the exception of Ypres). Can only be better after.

Mine is still in Frank's garage. Engine problem not yet solved.
I hope he is waiting for a component. If he is working hard on her, i shall have to sell the car to pay the bill ...

I touched the road with the body, the place were there are 4 fiberglass embossings covered with rubber (somewere under the seats),one embossing was severely scratched ; i fear i have to clear, repair and reinforce with fiberglass. This is not a big issue compared to cracked sump ; but most of us will remember for next year that belgium is not a flat country, as we are used to say here ...

Pascal