how to remove

[JonJon]

Hi All,
I need to remove the fuel pump from the Elan. I've got the car striped down to the point where I can see the top of the tank, What do I do next?

top of fuel tank.JPG

I've had the fuel lines off (just re-attached them to put the car to bed). Does the top of the tank unscrew or what? Once I have the pump out I need to check if it works, what is the best method for this and if it is dead what's the best replacement?
All these questions I keep asking, you guys will have to start charging me!

One more thing I was just going to, NAAAA not really
Thanks for all your help Jon.

[dapinky]

Hi Jon,

To actually remove the fuel tank it is quite a lot of hasstle - it drops out of the bottom (not literally!) - but needs quite a lot of ground clearance, so the car has to be on a lift, or very high axle stands!

There are a couple of metal straps which are held in by (usually rusty) bolts - once they are undone, the tank drops. I'm not sure if the RNS wishbone has to come out or not, or if it will drop past it.

To get to the pump, it doesn't need to come out, though.

The large knurled knob on the top is actually just a ring, not a cap (does that make sence?) - as such a large enough wrench will unscrew it, holding the centre bit in place (with the pipes sttached). if you dont have a wrench, i have used a piece of wood as a chisel and hit it with a mallet to unscrew it until it will go with hand pressure....

once it is undone, the whole internal gubbins (including the pump and the fuel-level float) will lift out with the cap - simples!

I've never had to replace one, but there are a few pumps listed on ebay which will fit, and if you do a search on LEC for fuel pump you will find various stuff which does the job for a few quid less than Lotus price!!!


If you just need to test the pump, simply take it away from the car, dry it out and connect the pump directly to a battery with a long enough wire to avoid any sparks near fuel vapours.

[JonJon]

Thanks for the info, I don't need the tank out, just the pump/sender unit to test the pump.
Thanks Jon.

[Simon_P]

My advice would be to leave it alone - it is a pain to remove the ring and you achieve little in taking it out.

Check the pump works by applying voltage to it. Disconnect the pipe at the filter then attach another pipe on the filter and into a container. That gets the stale fuel out and checks the pump. Check the resistance of the sender at the same time. Then change the filter while you are in there.

[Steve_P]

My pump failed earlier this year; I initially checked that it was getting the priming voltage (at the tank's top electrical connector) for a second or two when the ignition is first turned on before the car 'normally' starts, it was, but the pump was completely silent (it normally hums/buzzes when priming) so I decided to remove it and replace with a new one from Merlinmotorsport:

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/fu ... lotus/elan

Removing the ring (it unscrews - anticlockwise) and pump is not too difficult (if you need to!) just take your time and be sure to observe all recommended safety precautions. The pump and float can then be withdrawn but be careful not to bend the float arm as you pull the assembly out. I had to splice in the new cable and connector that comes with the pump and make sure everything was properly insulated etc. before re-installing.

The replacement pump has worked fine so far

Good luck, Steve

PS I decided to order a new pump before removing the pump assembly from the tank, but there is of course the possibility that a fault has developed in the wiring between the tank's electrical connector and the pump.

[HJ2]

agreed!

Once you got this far, just remove the fuel pipes again and unscrew the top. It is fairly easy, but remember that it IS petrol AND dangerous so take care of yourself and the car.

[JonJon]

My advice would be to leave it alone - it is a pain to remove the ring and you achieve little in taking it out.

Check the pump works by applying voltage to it. Disconnect the pipe at the filter then attach another pipe on the filter and into a container. That gets the stale fuel out and checks the pump. Check the resistance of the sender at the same time. Then change the filter while you are in there.

Hi Simon,
If the glug with 3 wires on top of the tank is the right place, then I ran a 12v feed to the pump yesterday, nothing! How do I go about checking the sender? At the moment I don't have access to the manuals, is the filter in the attached photo? Both items need work or changing, if someone can i:d them for me it would be great.

FUEL SYSTEM PARTS.jpg

Hi Steve P,
I'm getting the start up pulse to the relay, haven't checked for power at the pump yet, if the rain lets up today I will venture outside and check.

I would like to thank everyone for there advice and tips your all stars Jon

[epipete]

My experience, a condensation of the above, is getting the ring off is not difficult, Dave Pinks method of 'drifting' it off with a piece of wool and a mallet worked for be. The Merlin pumps, suggested by Simon, are both fine - currently I have the cheaper one in, it replaced the dearer one which only lasted 2yrs (but I probably shortened its life through running dry several times when my fuel gauge was knackered).

I found getting the pipes back on to be the hardest part.

Pete

[JonJon]

Now have access to manuals pages

[Brit-Car-Nut]

is the filter in the attached photo? Both items need work or changing, if someone can i:d them for me it would be great.

FUEL SYSTEM PARTS.jpg

The item to the left is the "Roll-Over" Valve which is supposed to keep the petrol in the tank in the event of overturning the car. The other is the charcoal filter which cleans the fumes to meet emission requirements.

[Simon_P]

B = ground
WG = Pump
GB = sender

The fuel filter is between the tank and the battery you need to remove a cover to see it.

[JonJon]

Thanks for the info guy's
I've just checked if power is getting to the plug, I have permanent 12v from GB wire but nothing at the WG. Turn the ignition on, relay clicks after 1-1.5 sec is that right?
Filter cover is on the left flank of the fuel tank bulge, is that correct.

[DeeAitch]

You should only get power to the pump for the first few seconds then it needs a crank signal from the ECM to keep running. This is why you normally hear it running when you first switch on the ignition, then stops after a few seconds.
lots of folk think it stops because the fuel rail is up to pressure but it is not that, it's a safety thing in case a fuel line is split in an accident. last thing you want is the pump feeding a fire

[JonJon]

So what are the likely causes of a permanent live feed?

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Thanks for the info guy's
I've just checked if power is getting to the plug, I have permanent 12v from GB wire but nothing at the WG. Turn the ignition on, relay clicks after 1-1.5 sec is that right?
Filter cover is on the left flank of the fuel tank bulge, is that correct.

You should have around 5 to 7 volts at the GB wire NOT 12V since the gauge is fed via the voltage regulator.

You need to verify that you have power at the WP wire going to the relay and if not, follow it back the the inertia switch to make sure you have power at the P wire and then at the WP. If you have power at the P, then trip the inertia switch a few times and see if it is just dirty contacts. If you don't have power at the P wire then check Fuse A3 for power in and power out. If you have an immobilizer, they might have added a break in the circuit, so you need to test back to the fuse. If the WG isn't getting power, then the ECM thinks the car is not getting fuel, so it won't try to get the car running.

[JonJon]

You should have around 5 to 7 volts at the GB wire NOT 12V since the gauge is fed via the voltage regulator.

You need to verify that you have power at the WP wire going to the relay and if not, follow it back the the inertia switch to make sure you have power at the P wire and then at the WP. If you have power at the P, then trip the inertia switch a few times and see if it is just dirty contacts. If you don't have power at the P wire then check Fuse A3 for power in and power out. If you have an immobilizer, they might have added a break in the circuit, so you need to test back to the fuse. If the WG isn't getting power, then the ECM thinks the car is not getting fuel, so it won't try to get the car running.

Hi Brit-Car-Nut,
Sorry my test meter is getting old, I'm seeing around 7 from the GB wire at the plug on top of the tank. I'll check for voltage as you suggest in the morning. I'm going to get the immobilizer swapped out for something like a Meta or Clifford. I think the old one is shot.
Thanks for all the help and advise it is very much appreciated Jon.